I didn't want to hi-jack the other discussion thread on tool handles. But I took a class at Trent Bosch's a couple months ago. I used and liked his aluminum tool handles but being on a disability income they are'nt in mu budget. has anyone made or know of a reasonably priced source for aluminum tool handles?
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Aluminum tool handle question
- Thread starter Ricc Havens
- Start date
What does reasonably priced mean to you? I don't mind searching Google for people, but guessing your real budget is beyond my skill set.
Well, the most price efficient ones are wood handles from the scrap pile. Many variations on ferules, and the 'cheap' one I saw on a David Ellsworth video years ago. He took some nylon twine, wrapped it tightly around the handle, a couple of layers, and then chased it all with thin CA glue. I have even seen hose clamps used. You may be able to find aluminum tubing lengths. You would have to at least make a plug for the tool end, and secure it. I would want some hockey tape around the handle, just because I don't like the cold metal feel, even if it warms up quickly. Oh, you would want anodized aluminum so you don't get aluminum 'oxidization' all over your hands. Some of the inserts may work here as well.
robo hippy
robo hippy
I don't think you'll find aluminum tool handles much cheaper, unless you scour Amazon and eBay for no-name imports. But a cheaper way to get a modular handle, albeit not aluminum, is to buy a ferrule from Oneway, Hosaluk, or another maker. These ferrules operate the same way as the Bosch handles, with a couple of set screws holding the tool in place, but you'd have to turn your own handle to fit the ferrule. The ferrules run about $20 each. If you're really set on aluminum, you could probably find a way to attach one of these modular ferrules to a length of aluminum tubing by making a bushing to fit? Delrin rod would make a good bushing and it's easy to work on a wood lathe, but adding up the cost of the tubing, ferrule, and bushing material, you might not be saving much money.
I live in a colder part of the country - up near the Canadian border on the water - aluminum handles are not my favorite, but I do have several aluminum D-Way handles with a vinyl cover. They do work well and the vinyl overcomes the coldness of the handles well. I greatly prefer the shop-made wood handles, lightly sanded to 120 grit with no finish. I use Hoseluk adapters so the tool is easily removed for sharpening. Works well for me - the wood is comfortable to the grip and I can size them to my hands and make them as long as needed.
Richard - I can do google. But with all the shopmade skills and frugalness of other turners, and knowing aluminum is somewhat easy to drill/machine compared to steel, I was looking to see if anyone actually made their own that are less than spending $60-$80 ea of those by tool manufactureres.
Robo & Asher - I have made wood tool handles. I just liked the feel and look of those handles I use at his class.
Robo & Asher - I have made wood tool handles. I just liked the feel and look of those handles I use at his class.
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Ricc,
Keep in mind that what you are feeling, except for the heft, with Trent's handles is the plastic sheathing. not the aluminum. After you get a couple like Trent's, you may try a Thompson handle and decide that what you want. Then there will be the xxx... I have at least one of all of those and more.
We've all been there.
I would urge you to consider the pride of craftsmanship you will get in creating your own out of wood since budget is a big factor.
You can buy aluminum stock that you could machine yourself, but after all the small quantity purchases, they will likely be as expensive as buying them from Trent.
I took to making my own R8 collet handles out of repurposed schedule 40 pipe, some texturing webbing, and shrink wrap. I gave it up and would not do it again.
The bottom line is to go where you will find your own satisfaction.
Keep in mind that what you are feeling, except for the heft, with Trent's handles is the plastic sheathing. not the aluminum. After you get a couple like Trent's, you may try a Thompson handle and decide that what you want. Then there will be the xxx... I have at least one of all of those and more.
We've all been there.
I would urge you to consider the pride of craftsmanship you will get in creating your own out of wood since budget is a big factor.
You can buy aluminum stock that you could machine yourself, but after all the small quantity purchases, they will likely be as expensive as buying them from Trent.
I took to making my own R8 collet handles out of repurposed schedule 40 pipe, some texturing webbing, and shrink wrap. I gave it up and would not do it again.
The bottom line is to go where you will find your own satisfaction.
I made one from aluminum and not worth doing it again. It wasn’t that great. I also made one out of steel pipe I covered with vinyl tubing. Again not worth it. I have Thompson and Carter and Sons tool handles. Both are fine, however as you say cost can be an issue. I make my own out of wood and fill with some lead shot. I like the feel of wood. I make my own aluminum inserts from 1 1/4” aluminum bar from eBay and a 5/16 set screws. Not as nice as the quick release, but works for me. Here are a few I made.
I always liked Carl Ford's article in April 2015 of Am Woodturner. He used PVC pipe but it could easily be adapted to an aluminum tube
Here are the aluminum handles I have made. I have also made handles from thin wall steel tubing and plugs made for the ends. Then I braze the ends in. One end is for 3/8" and the other is 1/2". You could use hardwood plugs for the ends and epoxy those in. 1" aluminum round rod is now about $8/ft in 3' sticks, so you will have at least $12 each just for the aluminum. So on a $60 handle, you are only paying $48 for labor and a 4 set screws. $48 is about 30 minutes or less of shop time. Speaking of Google, here is a $25 handle on Amazon, but you didn't tell us specs you need. https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Int...cphy=9022120&hvtargid=pla-1411619477457&psc=1
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Rick, I figured with a homemade one I could cover it with vinyl tubing or similar to get a similar feel to the Bosch handles. I would like to buy them direct from Trent I just don't have the budget on disability. I have a Thompson handle on one of my tools - again it's a nice handle but just not in my budget.
As far as the cost of aluminum - I was hoping if someone had made their own they might have a source for reasonably priced stock where maybe I could buy a long enough piece for two handles for the same or lower cost as one of the Bosch or Thompson handles.
William - nice looking handles. Thanks for the the info.
Michael - thanks for the info. Will try to find the article.
Richard - very nice looking handles. Specs would be similar to those offered by Bosch or others for handles for 1/2" 3/8", or 5/8" tools. You are correct that the labor vs material on a $60 handle is not too bad. But, time I have over money. So if I can get 2-3 handles out of a 3ft piece then that's a savings on my limited income. I plan on giving it a try. I just thought with this thread someone would have a preferred source of material, and maybe any tips/tricks they had for the process. Same with the Amazon link. That handle is 14" for $25. With a 3ft $24 stick of aluminum (at the $8/ft you mentioned) and a few bucks more for some vinyl tubing I would have two instead of one tool. Set screws are free as I snagged tons in a few standard thread sizes from my father-in-laws workshop along with his whole cabinet of screws/bolts when he passed. Heck, I need to go digging as I may even have some vinyl tubing that I snagged too along with a bunch of 12/3 & 14/3 wire. just not sure if it has the necessary I.D.
THANKS again!!
Michael - thanks for the info. Will try to find the article.
Richard - very nice looking handles. Specs would be similar to those offered by Bosch or others for handles for 1/2" 3/8", or 5/8" tools. You are correct that the labor vs material on a $60 handle is not too bad. But, time I have over money. So if I can get 2-3 handles out of a 3ft piece then that's a savings on my limited income. I plan on giving it a try. I just thought with this thread someone would have a preferred source of material, and maybe any tips/tricks they had for the process. Same with the Amazon link. That handle is 14" for $25. With a 3ft $24 stick of aluminum (at the $8/ft you mentioned) and a few bucks more for some vinyl tubing I would have two instead of one tool. Set screws are free as I snagged tons in a few standard thread sizes from my father-in-laws workshop along with his whole cabinet of screws/bolts when he passed. Heck, I need to go digging as I may even have some vinyl tubing that I snagged too along with a bunch of 12/3 & 14/3 wire. just not sure if it has the necessary I.D.
THANKS again!!
There is some chintzy aluminum handles on fleabay for $9.99. I bought some for my Chinese carbides. They work and haven't broke yet but they are very lightweight and not the longest. 12mm hole I think.
If I were to use them more I would probably put some bb's in them and maybe wrap with something to make them larger in diameter.
Or there's this route---- https://www.ebay.com/itm/1246396086...639608637|ni_bn:1&_trksid=p2380424.m570.l5997
If I were to use them more I would probably put some bb's in them and maybe wrap with something to make them larger in diameter.
Lathe Tool Turning Tools Carbide Insert Cutter Round Shank Aluminum Handle | eBay
Color: Sliver. You can buy a aluminum alloy handle and set the turning tool together, it is light weight and strong. Hardness of Blade: 90HRC. Tools are made professionally with good quality steel with quenching process,to make the tools very strong.
www.ebay.com
Or there's this route---- https://www.ebay.com/itm/1246396086...639608637|ni_bn:1&_trksid=p2380424.m570.l5997
see Cindy Drzda's handout
There are a couple more metalworking handouts there
There are a couple more metalworking handouts there
That is high dollars. You can get a complete Thompson handle for about the same $$. A 12” X 1 1/4” aluminum bar is about $20 and you can make 4 from that.
Pretty sure that is for the set of three for $51. Singles from this guy are $18.90 . Drozda adapters are $22 a piece.
Still pricey and then you have to make the handle on top of that.
I still like the Thompson handles because they don't roll. What's he do, buy bigger tubing then mill the flats on it I wonder?
I use quite economical thin aluminium tubing (I buy it in long lengths) and add an economical adaptor and wrap in door draft foam strip.
I went that way as I prefer light and long in my turning handles. You can make the clamping bit out of a plumbing fitting.
I went that way as I prefer light and long in my turning handles. You can make the clamping bit out of a plumbing fitting.
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@Sam Fleisher It does look like three adapters for that price, however I’ll keep making my own.
If there is any one near you who makes airplanes, aircraft grade aluminum tubing would be a good way to go. They may even have scraps, and plugs for the ends that you could drill and tap for set screws. Depends on your metal working skills.... I don't remember the turner who demoed at our club, but he started off by tossing his handle to the audience. It was aluminum tubing, and very light weight. You do not need any weight in your tool handles. I never understood why the lead shot filled handles became popular. Don't think they are that popular now days. That is just too much weight to push around for a day of turning....
robo hippy
robo hippy
Don't know of anyone locally who makes plane parts. But, a guy at church is a FedEx pilot and is also getting his helicopter license via a local flight school. So I can ask if he knows of something like that.
Thanks
Ricc
Like everything else it is a matter of personal preference. On my wood handles I usually add lead shot to the back end about 1/3 of the way (1/2” diameter). Doesn’t provide a lot of weight, but more of a balance front to back that I prefer. I don’t think I would like a a hollow aluminum tubing handle due to the imbalance, however that is just my preference.
Doug Thompson's handles are all weighted and he sells a lot of them. Over the past 18 years of being in Doug's booth they are very popular. All but the 7" handle.
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Did you take Trent's class for free? Not trying to be a jerk but how could you afford a $1000 class but not a $50 handle? Just an observation is all.
I have 5 or 6 of Trent's handles and prefer them over others. Making your own MAY save you a few bucks, but will it be and feel the same as Trent's when you're done? By the time you buy handle material, drill and tap for setscrews, and I have no idea how you get plastic tubing to slide over a 12" or longer piece of pipe and not move when you're done (soap? heat?), well you might be better off buying the real thing.
I have 5 or 6 of Trent's handles and prefer them over others. Making your own MAY save you a few bucks, but will it be and feel the same as Trent's when you're done? By the time you buy handle material, drill and tap for setscrews, and I have no idea how you get plastic tubing to slide over a 12" or longer piece of pipe and not move when you're done (soap? heat?), well you might be better off buying the real thing.
Well not that it's any of your business. But, no I did not take the class for free. With my disability income I had to save for a few years to be able to take a class. And, while $50 may not sound like much to you it's something to me. From what I am learning I can buy a stick of aluminum for the same or less than $50 and have enough material for two not one handle. So that's a savings. And actually your comment about soap/heat to install vinyl tubing is an old plumber's trick I learned from professional plumbers who used to come into the hardware store I managed. The heat softens the tubing a little and the soap acts as a lubricant. the soap will dry and the tubing stays in place. Will it work for something this long? Not sure, but willing to try. Worst case scenarios I can make one slit along the length of the tubing, apply adhesive and wrap it around the handle. The tiny seam won't be a big deal. Is the whole process of making a shop made handle be ideal over buying a new one from Trent - no. But, will a be functional enough for me - yes.
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I know exactly where you're coming from Ricc. Same boat here. Gotta save the pennies wherever you can to be able to do things like a class, and the folks that can go out and buy a Robust (or two or three) and drop a couple hundred on some nice handles, just don't get it, and probably never will.
Your source of income and how you spend it is at issue because you told us about it. If you want to keep it private, by all means do so.
I don’t think you can reproduce well made tool handle for less than what is being sold commercially. It really is more than the cost of materials. I will wager that you’ll spend more going the cheaper route than buying from Trent. If you take into account your time, even at $1/hour your hole will get much deeper. Then consider that the first attempts may not work out to your satisfaction, so you’ll do it again, or work with something you don’t like.
I would also wager that the handles Trent is selling aren’t his first attempts. Working out materials, design, methodology for manufacturing till he had something sale able took time and effort. All of which is sold to you for very little money.
As someone who relied on his tools to put food on the table I always bought the best tools available. I couldn’t afford to waste time and money on cheap tools. “Buy the best. You’ll never be disappointed “. And buying the best only hurts once.
If you’re making bowls or hollow forms, you don’t actually need more than one handle. It takes about 15 seconds to change the tool. Make sure it’s a handle you can be happy with.
Just because I shared my income status doesn't mean it's your business how I spend it. I know plenty of people on disability or soc.sec., or other low paying jobs that do things that make me wonder. But, it' not my business So I don't ask how they spend their income. They could be saving money over a long period of time, they could be living paycheck to paycheck, or living on credit cards (which I don't do - I am debt free). They could even have won some money or was given the money as a gift. It's just not my business. Heck 5yrs ago I applied for and won a $1000 AAW education grant and took a course with pro-turner Rudy Lopez. But, how or where I spent that money was nobody's business but mine and the grant committee. It wasn't anyone else's business.
Of course, making something is sometimes more than the cost of materials. But time I have and time really doesn't cost me anything. Like a lot of others, turning is a hobby, not an income source. As I mentioned above, I don't need to buy set screws. Plus, I know enough plumbers from my days in the retail hardware business that I can probably get some long enough vinyl tubing as scraps from jobs they have done. The only cost will be the aluminum. Which is why I asked the question. Others above have offered potential sources or ideas on places to check. I'm smart enough to know that if I can't source it cost effectively then I know it's not a project to pursue. But, how do I know unless I research it?
Of course, Trent spends time and money to get to a finished product. I never said I wanted an exact copy> I have made other tools & jigs. I made a homemade version of the Jamieson captured hollowing system, and like many others on this forum I have cobbled together a video hollowing system way cheaper than Trent's visualizer? Do they have the same professionally made look of Lyle's or Trent's product? Nope, I didn't have that expectation. Do they function and am I happy with them? Yup!
I don't rely on my tools for an income like you and others. It's a hobby. If it's something I need to rely on day to day like eyeglasses or a furnace, then yes I don't go bargain basement pricing. I save what I can when I can to buy those things.
Besides the economics of Buy vs DIY, some of us also enjoy going DIY with some of our kit for just the pleasure of doing so and then sharing what we found out so others can get a result without going down any dead end side tracks that didn't work out so well.
Having never taken a lesson in my 50+yrs of tuning I can't comment on the value of spending money on the tuition aspect of that (I'm not questioning the value of that), but imagine from my few experiences of getting together with other like minded people that its value is as much the social networking as anything else. And of course, this forum also serves that purpose.
Coincidentally I gave a demo and ran a half day workshop on making your own aluminum handle for our guild just last week. The handles I demonstrated were made from 1" aluminum tubing covered with 1" vinyl with a turned plastic insert and two 1/4" set screws. Most of the materials are readily available, although I did find the plastic harder to source at a reasonable price than I thought I would. In addition to the DIY spirit that Neil noted above, it's a good project to expose people to working with materials other than wood on their lathe using their regular wood turning tools. Hot soapy water has been my solution to getting the vinyl over the tube. With enough heat and water I have been able to get the tubing over 24" without too much trouble. Just don't squeeze the vinyl harder - that only makes the vinyl grab the aluminum more and doesn't really improve your grip.
I think the first one I made was largely based on a video posted by Captain Eddie several years ago. That video might be worth looking up again if this is a project you are thinking about taking on.
Adam
I think the first one I made was largely based on a video posted by Captain Eddie several years ago. That video might be worth looking up again if this is a project you are thinking about taking on.
Adam
Neil & Adam - thanks for the comments
Adam - Nice liiking handles! would you happen to have a handout and info on sources for the aluminum?
Adam - Nice liiking handles! would you happen to have a handout and info on sources for the aluminum?
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For what it's worth, we used to use hair spray to get grips on mountain bike handles. I put some vinyl tubing over my Thompson handle so it's nicer to grip in my cold shop in winter. Can't recall what I used as a lubricant, but there's no hair spray in the house any more. I may not need hair brushes much longer, either. 
For what it is worth you can get 36 " aluminum bar 1.5 inch for 48.10 before shipping at Online Metals
Regrettably, I don't have a handout for the workshop. It was on my list of to-dos that never go done. With regard to sourcing the pipe, I have gotten if from a couple of different places over the years. I was able to purchase some from a metal recycler once, that was just because they had some scrap that someone had brought in a day or two earlier, but that may not be a really reliable source if you want it right now. Alternatively, it should be available as new material from most well stocked metal suppliers/fabrication shops. I have one supplier who is local to my office that occasionally has it available on their 'shorts' rack. If you can find a supplier with a rack like that, you can sometimes get it a good price if they can sell it to you on an as-is/cash and carry basis. As Gerald noted, there are one-line retailers too. I have never purchased from them, but their selection and convenience is undeniable. Metal Supermarket is one that I know, and has several outlets in southern Ontario (near me). They are currently quoting just under $10 (Canadian) per foot for 1" x 0.125" aluminum tubing, although that would not include shipping. The price listed for the same product by Online metals is even better: https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy...5%22:InnerDiameter:0.75%22:OuterDiameter:1%22
If you go the route of vinyl covered aluminum, don't forget to de-burr or champher the ends of the aluminum tube before you start to slide the vinyl on. Any kind of rough edge will grab the vinyl and give you all kinds of headaches.
Adam