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Anchorseal vs Anchorseal 2

john lucas

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We have started a discussion on these on another Forum and would like to get your opinion both on how you use it and which you prefer. If you can tell my why you prefer one over the other.
I'm getting ready to buy another 5 gallons and would like to know. I am going to call UC coatings in a day or so and talk to the tech rep as well.
If you have another sealer you prefer please fill me in on that as well.
Also any other methods for preserving wood either before turning or after roughing would be greatly appreciated.
 
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I purchase the Anchorseal for our club. It was my understanding the the original is no longer available. Only Anchorseal 2 is. That being said, I don't use a lot of it but, I found that I needed to use two coats (second after first is dry). Since it is water soluble I did not concern myself with the drips as the rain removed them. No expert just my 2 cents worth.
Ron
 
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John,

Haven't used the newer version. I always call UCC and order direct, nice folks. Just tell them you want the original formula. The last time I ordered a 5 gal. bucket the lady said, oh yeah, you must be a woodturner.......

Again, can't speak to the Formula II, but from what I read, I'll stay away in droves..........

Rich

As an aside, I would think that it would matter more how/where you stored your roughouts, location, humidity, etc. I wax mine as soon as they come off the lathe, then they sit on the floor for a few days, then I store them up between the floor/ceiling joists. I have not seen any difference in bagging vs not bagging. All in my basement, not the driest spot on earth.............. Someone in Arizona would most likely have to do something different.
 
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john lucas

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Richard That's part of why I'm asking more questions. You get a lot of hear/say on the web and don't know what's factual. I've been reading what I can find but I want more evidence if you know what I mean.
 
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I've been reading the V1 vs V2 postings since V2 came out.

Folks' happiness with V2 seems somewhat based on geographical location.

I've seen a number of postings from the midwest where the preference is for V1.

And since UCC will sell you either, it seems everyone gets to have their choice.

As I posted in the other forum, UCC immediately offered to replace V2 with V1 when I contacted them for comments, not with a complaint.

They do seem to connect V1 with woodturners.
 

Bill Boehme

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John, there is a thread on SMC about this subject. Most of the posts seemed to be idle speculation and conspiracy theories so I decided to go to the source and check out the MSDS for both. What I found is in the last post in the thread and basically, there is very little difference. The newer Anchorseal is paraffin wax in a water emulsion and the older Anchorseal appears to be a mixture of more than one petroleum based wax in a water emulsion. I presume that this means that the original formula may be a bit softer and not as likely to flake off, but the newer version provides a better moisture barrier.

By the way, for the alarmists, the original formula is still available. All that it takes is going to the UC Coatings web site to verify that.
 
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Seeing that my club has purchased 110 gallons of each (total) over the last 5 years, I have seen no difference between the two myself. They both have the same record of use for my wood. We have always got the variety that has freeze protection. One person in my club thought that the wood cracked more with II than with I but I have not found that to be the case.
Bill
 
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We have started a discussion on these on another Forum and would like to get your opinion both on how you use it and which you prefer. If you can tell my why you prefer one over the other.
I'm getting ready to buy another 5 gallons and would like to know. I am going to call UC coatings in a day or so and talk to the tech rep as well.
If you have another sealer you prefer please fill me in on that as well.
Also any other methods for preserving wood either before turning or after roughing would be greatly appreciated.

As a long time user of various wax emulsions in the rug industry, the manufacturers of these emulsions have needed to reformulate due to unavailability and shortages of certain petroleum based waxes. Some major producers have discontinued offering any waxes. Of course out of this the emulsions have become more expensive. For a rug backing compound some of the newer formulations have not worked as well as my suppliers have tried to minimize cost/price increases to us. I have tried several of the emulsions that I use in rug compounds and all work as well or better than either Anchorseal or the various private labeled brands.
 
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I’ve used the Klingspore brand for over 20 years and have had great results with it. I started using it mainly because they have a store in town and I don’t have to pay shipping, which greatly reduces the total cost. It’s currently $17/ gallon. I have never used anchorseal so I don’t know how it compares.
 
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John,
A few months back our club had an IRD with Mr. Mike Mahoney. At one point during the demo (probably after seeing the shots of his shop and seeing hundreds of rough-turned bowl blanks stacked all over the place!), the subject of sealing roughed-out bowls came up. Mike said he uses good old white pva glue - Elmer's glue - diluted 20% with water. IIRC, he said he thinks the glue penetrates the wood somewhat and strengthens/stiffens the surface fibers. I currently have a bowl I'm trying it our on, but in Houston I find I have to wait 9 - 12 months to have them be dry enough to finish turn. So I won't be able to tell you how the glue sealer works for quite some time. Mike of course lives in northern CA and doesn't have nearly the humidity we have!
 
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I use PVA drywall primer ... about $10 a gallon at most home centers. I apply 2 coats, and have had consistently good results.
 

Emiliano Achaval

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By now, 8 years after @john lucas asked this question, he should have an update. Last year we bought a 55 gallons drum of Anchorseal, I only use it on very nice pieces that I want to make sure they do not crack. Living only a few miles from the rain forest, I do not have any problems drying my rough turned bowls.
 
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Our club recently purchased a drum of the original Anchorseal, our distribution was last weekend. The person in our club that does this order every other year says that while there is little difference between the two in regards to results there was a significant price difference. For the original formula the members paid $12.50 a gallon. One thing that was noted over and over at our distribution is that the original Anchorseal is not freeze proof in its liquid form, so we cannot store it outside or in unheated shops during the winter in our area.

I've used both and really can't say one works better for me than the other, at lease here in eastern Washington.
 
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I’ve used the Klingspore brand for over 20 years and have had great results with it. I started using it mainly because they have a store in town and I don’t have to pay shipping, which greatly reduces the total cost. It’s currently $17/ gallon. I have never used anchorseal so I don’t know how it compares.
I believe it is made by the same folks that make anchorseal, and by the way, it works great! Military get 10% off also from Klingspore
 
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