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Another bandsaw post

Richard Patrick

Richard Patrick

Joined
Jan 20, 2021
Messages
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Location
Stuart, FL
So I went back and searched bandsaw posts and did not find anybody with a jet 18 inch bandsaw with a 3 hp motor (JWBS 18-3 ) Does anyone have any experience with this saw?
I had ordered a Rikon 18 inch saw last week but was told it wouldn’t ship until late June. Today I found a local Jet dealer that has the 18 inch saw with 3hp available and can deliver it to my house Saturday. I’d be giving up the 19 inch height capacity in turn for 16 inches .also,no brake on the Jet. The Jet has a slightly larger table. I’m currently using a Powermatic with a 6 inch capacity.
Any thoughts appreciated.
 
I have an Lauguna 18BX and I really like having a brake (plus it has a large table). It takes a long time for the blade to stop without a brake - it just feels safer to get that blade stopped asap - especially if you have the guards up high for a large blank.
 
Hi Ritchard
I have a JWBS 20-3 and it does have an electronic brake. Stops the saw fairly quickl. My saw works very well and does everything I ask of it. One thing I particularly like is that the guides can be adjusted without any tools and the double roller guides give very good support to the blade.Quick and simple
 
I’ve had a Laguna 18inch for ~10yrs after starting out with a Delta 14” w/ riser block for the previous ~20yrs. After having a bandsaw with a brake, I wouldn’t recommend a saw without one; brake is the way I shut my saw off 95%+ of the time.
 
If it has cast iron wheels, in my book, it should have a brake. Not sure about that saw. I have had a Laguna 16 HD saw for 15+ years and love it. I don't ever turn anything over about 14 inch diameter anyway. Just not much of a market for it. I do think that all bandsaws need more table space, which you have to build yourself, infeed, outfeed, and in front as well. My Laguna has a 4.5 hp Baldor motor on it. that may be over kill, but as long as the blade is sharp, it walks through anything I put on it. Huge advantage for cutting bowl blanks that have parallel sides. Now, if only they would make bandsaws that actually have efficient dust ports...

robo hippy
 
Rob Fridenberg said:
I have an Lauguna 18BX and I really like having a brake (plus it has a large table). It takes a long time for the blade to stop without a brake - it just feels safer to get that blade stopped asap - especially if you have the guards up high for a large blank.
Click to expand...
X Two. Plus the dual dust ports work!
 
The early Rikon 18" saws did not come with a brake. I can see the shutoff feature being a huge plus. The brake feature is a big enough safety feature that I'm going to see if there is a retro fit system.

Have to make a trip to Memphis and check out factory brake systems on the new saws...

Tom, back when I bought mine, it was a Rikon or Laguna. Didn't want to wait and build up the funds for the Laguna had the cash for the Rikon. It has served me well, worked around the small table and don't resaw so never put the 2.5hp motor in a bind
 
Thanks all for the helpful responses. I’m going back to the Jet dealer today to finalize a deal on a bandsaw. This particular shop is also a Laguna dealer. I’m really leaning toward a saw with a brake. Thinking I’ll inquire about availability on a 18 inch Laguna or consider the 20 inch Jet.
 
Richard a bandsaw is only as good as the blade on it. Which are the best quality bandsaw blades are as hotly debated as to which is the best bandsaw. Your new Laguna is a quality saw and certainly deserves a top quality blade to get the most out of it.
Ron
 
You can probably source bandsaw blades locally. I get mine at a local shop. My preference is for the Lennox bimetal blades. I keep my 16HD set up with a 1 1/4 inch by teeth at 3/4 inch apart for cutting up slabs. I have a smaller Powermatic with a 1/2 inch/3 tpi blade for cutting circles. It is more efficient to have 2 saws so you don't have to change blades, but that depends on how many bowl blanks you prepare. The big blade can knock off corners.

I use strips of plywood to mark out a log section, from 1 to 8 inches, in 1/2 inch increments. Figure 1/2 inch for the chainsaw kerf. I have gotten fairly good at cutting a straight line. Best tip I can think of is don't rock the saw as you cut, but just let it fall through the wood. That gets you a flat surface. Take your log half into the shop. If you have a flat surface, then cut one end off the half round. If it isn't flat, having a sliding table can really help. I eyeball cutting the end off square. I then stand it up on the squared off end, and using the plywood strips again, to mark out and cut off slabs for plates, platters, and bowls. You get almost perfectly parallel slabs. Huge work saver.

I will always cut off the bark on the last blank. I almost never make natural edge bowls.

robo hippy
 
robo hippy said:
You can probably source bandsaw blades locally. I get mine at a local shop. My preference is for the Lennox bimetal blades. I keep my 16HD set up with a 1 1/4 inch by teeth at 3/4 inch apart for cutting up slabs. I have a smaller Powermatic with a 1/2 inch/3 tpi blade for cutting circles. It is more efficient to have 2 saws so you don't have to change blades, but that depends on how many bowl blanks you prepare. The big blade can knock off corners.

I use strips of plywood to mark out a log section, from 1 to 8 inches, in 1/2 inch increments. Figure 1/2 inch for the chainsaw kerf. I have gotten fairly good at cutting a straight line. Best tip I can think of is don't rock the saw as you cut, but just let it fall through the wood. That gets you a flat surface. Take your log half into the shop. If you have a flat surface, then cut one end off the half round. If it isn't flat, having a sliding table can really help. I eyeball cutting the end off square. I then stand it up on the squared off end, and using the plywood strips again, to mark out and cut off slabs for plates, platters, and bowls. You get almost perfectly parallel slabs. Huge work saver.

I will always cut off the bark on the last blank. I almost never make natural edge bowls.

robo hippy
Click to expand...
+1 on the Lenox blades. I have been sourcing from BandSawBladesDirect. It takes 2-3 weeks to get them.

I do have a sliding table on my bandsaw and can say it was a very worthwhile project. Elevates almost any bandsaw jig, easy to make straight cuts on irregular wood, and much safer operation.
 
+2 on the Lenox blades and I too buy from BandSawBladesDirect. Since building a sled, I have cut about 140 bowl blanks on the same 3/8 3 tpi blade and still cutting. Do have to clean the gunk off of the blade when it stops cutting. They cut and weld their blades so if you have an unusual blade length, they will take care of you. Mine is 11' 10"...
 
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Just wanted to offer a few more words of gratitude for the replies and guidance. This forum along with the other benefits that come with a membership to AAW make it a worth the small cost.
Dave Probst, thank you for the help with the particular saw that I ordered.
(Laguna 18BX).
 
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