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Another type of scraper

Yes on occasion. I also use a round one on the inside. I only do it with the lathe off. Usually if I have to resort to the cabinet scrapers it's because there is chip out in just one area. I find I can use the card scraper and clean that area and then go to my sanding. On the inside the round scrapers can create a divot so you have to sort of level the area outside the divot so you don't "feel" it with your hand. Then I start sanding. My friend John K Jordan found some really great thick small scrapers at www.stewmac.com Here is the link. They are pricey but really work.
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Scrapers/StewMac_Ultimate_Scraper.html
 
john lucas said:
Yes on occasion. I also use a round one on the inside. I only do it with the lathe off. Usually if I have to resort to the cabinet scrapers it's because there is chip out in just one area. I find I can use the card scraper and clean that area and then go to my sanding. On the inside the round scrapers can create a divot so you have to sort of level the area outside the divot so you don't "feel" it with your hand. Then I start sanding. My friend John K Jordan found some really great thick small scrapers at www.stewmac.com Here is the link. They are pricey but really work.
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Scrapers/StewMac_Ultimate_Scraper.html
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link, John......I found a video at your link concerning the prepping and creating of burs on hand held scrapers that I found very interesting:

View: https://youtu.be/a7XRbfbpXiE
 
I found it to be useful smoothing the outside profile and merging the various ripples my tools made. This dry poplar I was working on stubbornly insisted on tearing out even after resharpening any tool I tried on it so I grabbed up the card scraper. It flexes to a curve and the cutting action of the rolled edge made a surface smooth enough for light sanding. It still tore out but at a scale comparable to the fine cutting edge which was fairly easy to sand out. One note, at the 250 rpm I was turning at the scraper would get hot pretty quick but being such a thin tool would cool very quickly. Be careful of the pressure you exert especially near the lip of the bowl as it is prone to chatter.
 
I found a curved sheffield steel set of cabinet scrapers at Rockler. They are thicker than the spring steel ones I had and took a good burr very fast. It takes out toolmarks and evens out the inside surface way faster than sanding on this hard hickory bowl Im working on now. I tried shear scraping but didnt get good results.
684591E0-DF50-4A7D-ABB1-60B73D8FE942.jpeg
 
With the lathe running, the only disadvantage I can see, is the lack of tool rest. I haven't done it with a hand held card scraper, but I have done it with a hand held standard lathe scraper. Being hand held, the tool will tend to oscillate between long grain and end grain. The result of this will be an out-of-round final surface. This may not be a big disadvantage for some turning, but where geometric integrity is a main component of the turner's style, it works against a successful end result.

-----odie-----
 
It does have problems with chatter if the speed is too high, especially if the scraper is of thinner material. You do want to have the bowl as close to good as you can get it and use it as a negative rake tool. I took a cue from John Lucas and just locked the spindle and worked the inside with the scraper and was able to get a nice even surface quicker that I could just sanding. I found alternating with the sander worked well to as the sander would make the low spot show up drastically and I could go back to that defect and work it down till it disappeared. The thing I like about this scraper is the radius is big enough that the wood removed is not a divot and blends in with the surrounding easily.
 
Practice a little on a flat surface and you will learn how to use the scraper. I tried it today on a platter and easily got some irregularities cleaned up. The thing about card scrapers is you have to get used to them. You need a burr on it for good cutting action and that burr does not come from the grinder, you would quickly have a crooked mans scraper. On a bowl it is a litt more difficult to handle as you will only use one hand in most cases.
 
Richard Coers said:
I can't imagine the burr last very long. I can wear away one scraping a piece of wood. 750rpm is way faster than me on a flat board!
Click to expand...
You can easily replace the burr with just a few passes of a burnishing tool. This can be done mayve 6 to 8 times before resharpening.
 
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