Well, as near as I can tell, any 'extreme' round over still does not let you take a 40/40 through the transition and across the bottom of a deeper bowl. I believe, and again I don't have actual experience with this, that the more relieved the bevel is, the less dramatic the catch is if you use the 'peeling cut with a wing' on the inside wall of a bowl. There are a number of turners who use this cut when going down the inside of a bowl. They have the flutes up and are cutting more with the wing and less or no cutting with the nose. I don't and won't use or teach that cut. While it does work, with a full or small bevel on the wing, if you come off of that bevel, even a tiny bit, you had a sharp unsupported edge pointing up into the spinning wood. This can make for some very dramatic catches. I don't think it cuts any better than the 40/40, and having the flutes rolled to 70 to 90 degrees gives a very clean cut.
Side note here, and some may disagree, attempting to use a peeling cut on bowls is dangerous. This type of cut is what causes all those nasty catches that turners have when they try using a spindle roughing gouge on bowls. Peeling cuts work on spindles, but not on bowls. Roll the SRG onto it's side, on the outside of a bowl, and it cuts nicely because of a very high shear/slicing presentation of the cutting edge.
robo hippy