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Anyone use the Carter Strongbore

had mine for a few years - done maybe 75+ pepper mills (3 of us share the lathe) so only used a single extension but no reason to think that a second would be a problem - works great - much better than other extenders I tried

the instructions are correct - you get best results with no extension till the bit bottoms out and then add length as needed - yah a bit of a pain to back out and add length but if you use it like the picture - starting a bore with that long a shaft it gets floppy and cut quality is bad and you can have a lot of wobble

pro tip I learned the hard way - tighten the set screws well and you can disassemble by hand to add/remove extensions, which is a lot easier than having to use wrenches if the drilling torque tightens the threads
 
had mine for a few years - done maybe 75+ pepper mills (3 of us share the lathe) so only used a single extension but no reason to think that a second would be a problem - works great - much better than other extenders I tried

the instructions are correct - you get best results with no extension till the bit bottoms out and then add length as needed - yah a bit of a pain to back out and add length but if you use it like the picture - starting a bore with that long a shaft it gets floppy and cut quality is bad and you can have a lot of wobble

pro tip I learned the hard way - tighten the set screws well and you can disassemble by hand to add/remove extensions, which is a lot easier than having to use wrenches if the drilling torque tightens the threads
Do you have the taper for the tail stock or for a chuck?
 
I have one and use it to drill pepper mills. I've only went 10" deep, but no trouble. I have the morse taper section for the tailstock and add an extension depending on how deep I go. I only add the extension when needed. I've never had trouble with the extensions spinning if I tighten boths set screws tight. I try to remember to put the setscrews facing down so they don't pack full of sawdust. Make sure you back the bit out to clear the chips often, this keeps it on track better and the bit doesn't get stuck.
 
I have one and use it to drill pepper mills. I've only went 10" deep, but no trouble. I have the morse taper section for the tailstock and add an extension depending on how deep I go. I only add the extension when needed. I've never had trouble with the extensions spinning if I tighten boths set screws tight. I try to remember to put the setscrews facing down so they don't pack full of sawdust. Make sure you back the bit out to clear the chips often, this keeps it on track better and the bit doesn't get stuck.
I have an extension I use in a drill Chuck on the tail stock, just not long enough. I think the Morse taper piece and one extension with the bit will be deep enough but may get two extensions just in case.
I have plans to start some pepper mills in the near future.
 
I couldn't find where it said anything about the Morse taper being drilled for a draw bar?
 
A draw bar runs through the quill and screws into the end of the Morse taper to hold it in the tailstock. Keeps it from pulling out.

You sure they have one for drill chuck? from the link you posted- "There is no need for a drill chuck or MT adapter, as all are integrated into the Strongbore™."

I've been kind of half %#@ looking for something to drill holes through a dowel is why I'm interested.
 
No I’m not sure, may have been looking at a different brand. I do like the looks of this one.
David the Strongbore has the #2 MT on the end, the writeup tells that.

Also a drawbar does not work in a tailstock, the forward pressure is enough to keep the drill from turning, it is required to keep the MT in the tailstock when drawing the drill out or it will slip.

See if you could fit a drawbar in a tailstock you can not extend the ram of course unless you have a ram that is going all the way out the front and back of the tailstock, normally they are not build that way.

Strongbore .jpg
 
I use the strongbore to drill pilot holes when I am doing hollow forms. It is a pleasure not to have to futz around with a chuck.

One big improvement was to drill a small hole in the quill and the end of the strongbore (make sure they line up) and put a pin in the hole (see photo). Then there is no problem with the morse taper letting go, particularly on extraction.
 

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One big improvement was to drill a small hole in the quill and the end of the strongbore (make sure they line up) and put a pin in the hole (see photo). Then there is no problem with the morse taper letting go, particularly on extraction
I love this idea Peter. Thank you!
 
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