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Anyone use the Mirka DEROS 350XCV 3" sander for bowls?

I am curious to know more about the Milwaukee M12 Sander/Polisher (2438-20) that Keven, Steve, and now Roger are using. It looks (from the Milwaukee website) like it has no chuck: it seems to have a custom threaded mandrel configured for Roloc sanding discs. I would want to use normal hook-and-loop sanding discs, so I would have to invest in several of the Skilton mandrels that Steve sells through Turningwood.com. Not inexpensive, but Skilton makes good mandrels, so I would make that investment. This unit also appears to be very fast (2800 rpm) even in the "slow" polishing mode, so I wonder if the variable speed is easy to modulate. I already have a more sanders than I need, but the fact that this is light and cordless makes it an interesting contender.
 
I am curious to know more about the Milwaukee M12 Sander/Polisher (2438-20) that Keven, Steve, and now Roger are using.

Likewise. I did a little digging and you’re correct that it’s threaded for mandrels; it uses M9 x 0.75 threading

This unit also appears to be very fast (2800 rpm) even in the "slow" polishing mode, so I wonder if the variable speed is easy to modulate. I already have a more sanders than I need, but the fact that this is light and cordless makes it an interesting contender.

Having several pieces of Milwaukee rotary kit, drivers, drills, etc. it’s going to vary based on the equipment. For example, it’s much, much easier to maintain a consistent low speed on my (hex shank) driver than on the (chucked) drill, even with both on their respective “low” speed settings. So getting feedback from other users, or trying it out backed by a good return policy, are probably essential. For completeness, I’ll add for folks here that there are two speed settings: Low from 0-2,800 RPM and High from 0-8,300 RPM.
 
You would have to get a thread adapter. I use one with (I believe) a 1/4"-20 male thread to use a Roloc hub and the twist-on velcro backup pads sold by Woodturners Wonders.

The variable speed is trigger controlled, that said I usually run 2" discs at full bore in low range (2800 rpm). They may wear out faster at that speed but they remove wood at a faster rate and I haven't melted any pads- I guess you could using dull paper.

The trigger is a pistol type actuated by one finger and is not as friendly as the ones found on Sioux-type drills or the paddles seen on many air and Mirka sanders. I drilled a hole through the housing and trigger to lock it on with a through-pin when using it for extended periods. The unit would be improved by having a rotary speed control, a lock-on button and a bigger battery. The last one is easy to fix.
 
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Likewise. I did a little digging and you’re correct that it’s threaded for mandrels; it uses M9 x 0.75 threading



Having several pieces of Milwaukee rotary kit, drivers, drills, etc. it’s going to vary based on the equipment. For example, it’s much, much easier to maintain a consistent low speed on my (hex shank) driver than on the (chucked) drill, even with both on their respective “low” speed settings. So getting feedback from other users, or trying it out backed by a good return policy, are probably essential. For completeness, I’ll add for folks here that there are two speed settings: Low from 0-2,800 RPM and High from 0-8,300 RPM.
The threading is that weird metric threading, but a 1/4x20 adapter is available. We use these by removing the hex shaft on our Skilton mandrels and putting this adapter on.
 
The trigger is a pistol type actuated by one finger and is not as friendly as the ones found on Sioux-type drills or the paddles seen on many air and Mirka sanders. I drilled a hole through the housing and trigger to lock it on with a through-pin when using it for extended periods. The unit would be improved by having a rotary speed control, a lock-on button and a bigger battery. The last one is easy to fix.
Going to try this. My biggest issue with several of my cordless tools is the need to hold in a trigger for extended periods of time.
 
After reading Gerald's post about the VKNDOYNT sander/polisher I looked further at that type of products. Found a very similar Milwaukee M12 tool, quite compact with a brushless motor. There's no way I want to introduce another battery type in the shop and find room for a different charger, so I've ordered the Milwaukee and will see how it works out; looks promising and I've found scattered reports of turners using them happily. With a couple of batteries I don't expect battery life to be a limitation, I don't usually sand many bowls at a time. It doesn't offer a RO mode, but it seems you can't have everything.
Roger, would you mind posting a link of the tool? I’m very curious.
The threading is that weird metric threading, but a 1/4x20 adapter is available. We use these by removing the hex shaft on our Skilton mandrels and putting this adapter on.

I found this for the Milwaukee M12 polisher/sander. It's a small collet chuck that accepts 1/4" or 1//8" round shanks:

 
Roger, would you mind posting a link of the tool? I’m very curious.
I believe that Roger is talking about the same M12 Polisher / Sander
I found this for the Milwaukee M12 polisher/sander. It's a small collet chuck that accepts 1/4" or 1//8" round shanks:
Now that is an interesting solution, I like the idea of a collet chuck that allows me to use all of my existing mandrels and their hook-and-loop discs.

The only concern I have with this adapter is that, when I look at the picture of the tool with the adapter (see attached), the adapter extends the sanding face out from the tool, more like a normal drill. This might detract from the very good control that is usually associated with the units (like this tool with its normal attachment) that have the sanding face almost right in your fist. I think that this high level of control is one of the strongest points of the right angle drills, such as the Makita DA3010F or--since we are talking about the light and cordless features of an M12 tool--the Milwaukee M12 right angle drill. The more the configuration moves towards a normal drill, the less control you have (though the better it reaches into the bottoms of deeper places).
 

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I believe that Roger is talking about the same M12 Polisher / Sander

Now that is an interesting solution, I like the idea of a collet chuck that allows me to use all of my existing mandrels and their hook-and-loop discs.

The only concern I have with this adapter is that, when I look at the picture of the tool with the adapter (see attached), the adapter extends the sanding face out from the tool, more like a normal drill. This might detract from the very good control that is usually associated with the units (like this tool with its normal attachment) that have the sanding face almost right in your fist. I think that this high level of control is one of the strongest points of the right angle drills, such as the Makita DA3010F or--since we are talking about the light and cordless features of an M12 tool--the Milwaukee M12 right angle drill. The more the configuration moves towards a normal drill, the less control you have (though the better it reaches into the bottoms of deeper places).
Thanks Gord. I have the polisher/sander coming and I ordered the collet chuck also. I had the Milwaukee right angle drill, but it was pretty clumsy to operate and kept twisting on me. I'll post how it works. I agree that it adds just about 2" of length but hopefully it won't be a significant issue.
 
Don't forget about great used Milwaukee or Sioux 55° drills on eBay......

Just now, I purchased this one. Like a few others I have in storage, this one looks very lightly used.....and I couldn't pass it up for $60 delivered. This is an older one with the reversing switch in the rear. Made in the USA.

=o=
Doesn't a unit like this become wearisome after a while?
 
Doesn't a unit like this become wearisome after a while?

I suppose that all depends on how you use it, and how much sanding you have to do.

Personally, I really like the old style 55° drills for sanding the interior of bowls.....been doing it for 4 decades! :)

=o=
 
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