Ashley Harwood NR Scraper

[Omer Klee]

I’m thinking about buying a NR Scraper from Ashley Harwood.
If any of you had a chance to use one I would appreciate hearing your feedback. Likes/dislikes, performance.

 

[Michael Brown]

I love the idea, but I want to use mine on the inside of the bowl for cleaning errant tool marks and you need extension and a handle to do that. Otherwise for only the outside of the bowl and spindle detail work I think it would be excellent. I have to bolster system on my NRS so when I touch up the outside of the bowl I will frequently leave the handle off for a once and done operation

 

[Richard Coers]

Which one (she sells 3) and what do you intend to turn with it? Just wondering, because for that kind of money, you must really want that particular tool. I spend a fair amount of money, but $245 for a small piece of HSS and a tiny handle even seems high for me! The John Jordan version only costs $90. Even an old skew with a radius edge makes a great NR scraper.

 

[Brian Deakin]

The Ashley Harwood NR scapper is 10v and not HSS

Stuart Batty has a range of NR scrappers

Stuart Batty Tools

stuartbattytools.com

I would suggest reading
https://www.woodworkersemporium.com/content/NRS-Instruction-Manual.pdf
which as some useful information

and page 17 of

https://www.dmwoodturners.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Tools-Woodturning-CATALOG-AUG-2013.pdf

explains why 10v is the steel of choice

 

[Richard Coers]

The Ashley Harwood NR scapper is 10v and not HSS

Stuart Batty has a range of NR scrappers

Stuart Batty Tools

stuartbattytools.com

I would suggest reading
https://www.woodworkersemporium.com/content/NRS-Instruction-Manual.pdf
which as some useful information

and page 17 of

https://www.dmwoodturners.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Tools-Woodturning-CATALOG-AUG-2013.pdf

explains why 10v is the steel of choice

I bet you don't HAVE to have 10v to make fine whiskers. Since I've been doing it for decades with my bowl gouge. Inside and outside of a bowl.

 

[Omer Klee]

I love the idea, but I want to use mine on the inside of the bowl for cleaning errant tool marks and you need extension and a handle to do that. Otherwise for only the outside of the bowl and spindle detail work I think it would be excellent. I have to bolster system on my NRS so when I touch up the outside of the bowl I will frequently leave the handle off for a once and done operation

Michael, this is what I'm wanting to know. My use for it will be the inside and outside of bowls and I couldn't tell from the catalog pictures how easily it could reach the bottom of a bowl (limited depth).
At $245 and having a different shape on each end it would save money over buying two of another manufacturer..
I'm going to check with my locale group to see what their thoughts are as well. Thank you

So many tools to buy and so little money!

 

[Brian Deakin]

Yes Richard you are correct The advantage of 10v

• Never aggressive, easy to use and resharpen • Capable of an exceptional finish, start sanding at higher grades • Every Negative Rake Scraper is supplied with one CPM 10V® double-ended replaceable blade • CPM 10V® (A11) has exceptional burr life unlike carbide that cannot create a burr • Triple tempered and cryogenically treated CPM 10V® yields 5 times the life of M2 • Negative Rake Scraping is a technique used by all levels including professionals

 

[Dean Center]

Yes Richard you are correct The advantage of 10v

• Never aggressive, easy to use and resharpen • Capable of an exceptional finish, start sanding at higher grades • Every Negative Rake Scraper is supplied with one CPM 10V® double-ended replaceable blade • CPM 10V® (A11) has exceptional burr life unlike carbide that cannot create a burr • Triple tempered and cryogenically treated CPM 10V® yields 5 times the life of M2 • Negative Rake Scraping is a technique used by all levels including professionals

So a 10V negative rake scraper holds it's burr for 1 minute instead of 15 seconds? Since my HSS NRSs are going to outlast me, the longer potential life of a 10V tool doesn't seem to enter into the equation.

The question then becomes is saving that time worth the increased cost. Each individual will need to weigh the cost:benefit for themselves.

 

[Michael Brown]

So a 10V negative rake scraper holds it's burr for 1 minute instead of 15 seconds? Since my HSS NRSs are going to outlast me, the longer potential life of a 10V tool doesn't seem to enter into the equation.

The question then becomes is saving that time worth the increased cost. Each individual will need to weigh the cost:benefit for themselves.

I wish. The burr is at maximum potential for the same 15 seconds... Perhaps 30... But I have a sorby M2 1" wide 1/2" thick scraper that I converted to NRS and my Thompson 10v lifts off amazing silk thin ribbons off bowls with so little pressure it's a perfect final finish pass to remove the last bit of tool marks. It seems to take more pressure for the sorby to do the same.

 

[JeffSmith]

I’ve been using a D-Way / Boxmaster two ended nrs scraper for several months now - it’s great at shear scraping, 10” long, sharpened at both ends it is 1/4” thick and 5/8” wide. Easily hand held - no handle needed and simple switching between ends for use in both directions, M42 steel holds an edge/burr well and no handle makes sharpening quick and easy.
I use it a lot and really like the finish. It is also very reasonably priced. I like D-Way tools in general, and this addition from new owner Jimmy Allen’s line of Boxmaster tools fits into the D-Way line nicely.

The Ashley Harwood scraper looks very similar to the John Jordan shear scraper I used for years - but I was never really happy with the short length and felt the idea needed to be adjusted a little to make it more useful. Getting rid of the handle does just what I needed.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

I bought one from D-way. It is a very nice NRS. All of my friends that have tried it love it. This is the one I bought.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

I forgot to add that it is $95.

 

[JeffSmith]

I bought one from D-way. It is a very nice NRS. All of my friends that have tried it love it. This is the one I bought.

this is the one Jimmy Allen at D-Way sells for about $85 - small, easily used unhandled and puts a great finish on. I use it a lot - it’s small but mighty. Going to pair it with a new shear scrape tool rest from Robust for a great combination.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

this is the one Jimmy Allen at D-Way sells for about $85 - small, easily used unhandled and puts a great finish on. I use it a lot - it’s small but mighty. Going to pair it with a new shear scrape tool rest from Robust for a great combination.
View attachment 60984

Who long is that tool?

 

[robo hippy]

Well, I never liked the skew chisel style NRSs. To me, there just wasn't enough metal under the burr to support it. I have settled on 60/30 for my NRSs, and I have a bunch of them. I do prefer a burnished burr, which will outlast any grinder burr, especially if it is on a skew chisel type NRS. As for V10 being better than M2, of course it is. As far as V10 being better than M42, I can't tell any difference, but most of my NRSs came from D Way when I had Jimmy send me a bunch of blanks that were unground so I could shape them the way I wanted.

robo hippy

 

[Hugh]

I would look into a piece of steel from Thompson Tools. One could get a nice piece of steel and grind the shape/angle they want. Might even be V15 steel.....I can not remember right now and I am too lazy to look it up.
Less than $100 I believe.

 

[JeffSmith]

Who long is that tool?

It’s a little over 10” from tip to tip…

 

[JeffSmith]

Well, I never liked the skew chisel style NRSs. To me, there just wasn't enough metal under the burr to support it. I have settled on 60/30 for my NRSs, and I have a bunch of them. I do prefer a burnished burr, which will outlast any grinder burr, especially if it is on a skew chisel type NRS. As for V10 being better than M2, of course it is. As far as V10 being better than M42, I can't tell any difference, but most of my NRSs came from D Way when I had Jimmy send me a bunch of blanks that were unground so I could shape them the way I wanted.

robo hippy

I settled on 65/35 degrees for my s/scrapers - just set the platform on my Robo-Rest and put a fresh burr on. That’s remarkably close to how this was sharpened when I got it…
By the way - no easier way to get repeatable settings for the platform than the Robo- Rest. Thanks Reed.

 

[Bill Blasic]

The burr on a scraper is very overrated. I cannot tell you how many times I have heard a pro demonstrator say that the burr will be gone in seconds. Then watch him use it for minutes upon minutes. And I have seen a lot of them do this. I only sharpen mine when it does not do the job intended, it sits in a rack next to the lathe and I may use it 20 or 30 seconds 10 or 15 times or more over the course of days before it gets sharpened.

 

[john lucas]

I did a test on my Thompson skew while I was testing my 36 grit vs 350 grit grind. It only took 1 minute to completely wear off the burr over the entire edge of the skew doing a bevel rubbing cut on maple.
On my Thompson negative rake scraper that has a skew like grind the burr wears off between 15 to 30 seconds. That's a butt straight off the 180 cbn wheel.
. The burr on my John jordan shear scraper ttat is raised with his ceramic hone lasts a long time.

 

[Tim Mehling]

The burr on a scraper is very overrated. I cannot tell you how many times I have heard a pro demonstrator say that the burr will be gone in seconds. Then watch him use it for minutes upon minutes. And I have seen a lot of them do this. I only sharpen mine when it does not do the job intended, it sits in a rack next to the lathe and I may use it 20 or 30 seconds 10 or 15 times or more over the course of days before it gets sharpened.

I tend to agree with your observations on the scrapper burr. I’ve adopted the Eric Lofstrom method of putting a “hook” on my scraper burr. It makes a positive difference.

 

[Tim Mehling]

this is the one Jimmy Allen at D-Way sells for about $85 - small, easily used unhandled and puts a great finish on. I use it a lot - it’s small but mighty. Going to pair it with a new shear scrape tool rest from Robust for a great combination.
View attachment 60984

A really good tool if your looking for a scrapper.

 

[Adrian Wilson]

The burr on a scraper is very overrated. I cannot tell you how many times I have heard a pro demonstrator say that the burr will be gone in seconds. Then watch him use it for minutes upon minutes. And I have seen a lot of them do this. I only sharpen mine when it does not do the job intended, it sits in a rack next to the lathe and I may use it 20 or 30 seconds 10 or 15 times or more over the course of days before it gets sharpened.

Over Christmas, I took a couple of Richard Raffan videos out of the library. One was on woodturning in general, one was on bowls. When he talked about scrapers, he never mentioned a burr, and during the two videos, much of it filmed in real-time with no breaks in editing, he never sharpened the scrapers once, just kept working. Made a lot of shavings. Then I went to the book on woodturning he wrote for Taunton Press; not only did he not recommend a burr, he recommended honing the burr off if there was one.

I've been turning a fairly long time (but not much in the way of bowls etc.), but I would not describe myself as an 'expert' or even close. Scrapers are the tools I am LEAST knowledgeable about, so reading and viewing a lot. I had never come across this idea that burrs are essential, and you only have them for a few seconds until recently. When I see Raffan scraping away without a burr at all, I'm not sure what to think. I am shopping for more scrapers now (I only have one), and I will try both ways to get that personal experience.

 

[robo hippy]

Well, the burr on a M2 HSS scraper will work for roughing out one bowl, at least. The burr on M42 or V10 lasts a couple of bowls. The burr on the Big Ugly tantung scraper lasts for as much as half a day. There doesn't seem to be much difference between just barely kissing the bevel on the wheel or really grinding it. A burnished burr is far more durable than the grinder burr, but not much better than the Big Ugly burr. I can turn a burr on the tantung, but generally don't bother.

robo hippy

 

[Aaron Gesicki]

One detail, often overlooked, from Raffan videos - ALL scrapers can be made "negative rake" by altering the orientation of the tool by way of raising the handle. If the included angle between the top surface of the cutter and the wood is less than 90-degrees, then, by definition, it has "negative rake". This orientation is useful for two reasons - it reduces or even eliminates torn grain [i.e. - less sanding] and it reduces the possibility of a "catch" inside a concave shape.
From this, it's obvious that all scrapers can be made to be negative rake by adjusting the tool rest and appropriately inclining the tool.
All these skew-like grinds are unnecessary to provide a negative rake. That now makes the resharpening of the tool much easier since the same platform can be used for all scrapers.
There is a time when "skew-scraping" is viable - when the workpiece is fragile and the chips should be wispy or even thinner. An example from recent experience is when nearing final shape of the surface of the wings on a winged bowl. That interrupted cut is a pulse-pounder.

 

[Bill Blasic]

That's the idea of a negative rake is not hang to tilt the scraper down so you just have the tool parallel to the bed. A regular scraper held parallel to the bed is a roughing tool like Robo's Big Ugly. It's normally a big bang when new turners find that out.

 

[robo hippy]

Lifting the handle on a standard scraper does not make it cut like a NRS, not even close. The NRS is a whole different animal. If you use card scrapers, you can tip them well past the 'proper' cutting angle, and you get a 'raking' cut where the cut rakes more than it cuts. You need to have both top and bottom angles ground on the scraper to get a NRS cut.

robo hippy

 

[john lucas]

Lifting the handle puts more pressure against the wood as the wood tries to pullo it down the rest. All the forces on a negative rake scraper go straight down onto tge rest allowing you to take a more controlled cut.

 

[Bill Blasic]

That scraper that I talked about earlier above is not a negative rake scraper. Matter of fact it's not even a Thompson tool it's a HSS scraper that someone left in my shop after a hands on over 18 years ago. I liked the grind that was/is on it. Now I would be hard pressed to say that the way I use it that it is not a NRS. I have a few Thompson negative rake ground scrapers and this HSS old tool gives me the same cut, a fine whisper of wood. I have no idea what angle down I am using it but it wouldn't surprise me if it were somewhere between 4° and 7°. You will never convince me that this is not a NRS cut. It's a tool rest supported cut and have the same control as if I were using one of the NR ground scrapers. The scraper is ground on the flat plate at less than 90° probably at around 65° or 70°. Tipping it down 4° or 7° gives it an inclusive angle like a NRS. Again you will not convince me that it is not a negative rake cut.