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Axminster sk114 chuck?

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Trying to compare different chucks and like the idea of stainless steel.
It looks like the jaws that come with the chuck are machined with a groove to hold the worm screw disc or the face plate ring. Is that a non issue for it interfering with just a tenon?

Also what about reversing? I don't see any kind of set screw and it is a direct thread so no insert.

My candidates are the axminster sk114 and also looking at the vicmarc 120

Thanks
 
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I've been using Axminster chucks almost exclusively for the past 5 years and love it. Especially like the deep jaws and pronounced dovetail surfaces. No issues with the chuck reversing, but I always use a nylon washer between the chuck body and headstock.
 

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I have owned an Axminster chuck for over 20 years now and the Vicmarc chuck line(120 & 150) for about the same. Fit, finish, and accuracy my old ax wins. I can chuck up a 1" round aluminum rod and get only a few thousand of an inch runout at 12". Of all the chuck jaws I own across the Ax, Vic, and 1way lines, The 2" Axminster Mcdonald jaws are my favorite! Vicmarc, however, has one of the largest jaw selections in the woodturning industry. Especially for holding jumbo blanks with their 7,8, and 9" dovetail jaws. I am very happy owning both Ax and Vic. But if I had to own only one chuck for my type of turning, it would be the Vicmarc 120. You never know what type of turning one will do and what chucking requirements will be needed to support that in the future. Vicmarc system will cover you Ax will limit you.

If you wish to turn in reverse, there is no set screw in both the Ax or Vic.. You will have to drill and tap your own.
 
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I've been using Axminster chucks almost exclusively for the past 5 years and love it. Especially like the deep jaws and pronounced dovetail surfaces. No issues with the chuck reversing, but I always use a nylon washer between the chuck body and headstock.
I'm guessing the top jaws are the cylinder jaws and the bottom are O'donnell? Is there much advantage of the O'donnell over the cylinder other than you can chuck round stock further in on the cylinder jaws?

The top chuck is a sk100 with an insert? The insert has a set screw doesn't it?

Sorry for the questions, I just hate buyers remorse.

Did you see what I meant about the jaws that come with the chuck with the ability to hold that faceplate ring? Where the inside dovetail has a groove machined for the faceplate ring or the worm screw disc.
 
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I have both the SK114 and SK100. Axminster chucks do not have inserts, they are direct thread now. Mine have three set screws for reverse turning, overkill. I don’t have the cylinders jaws, but do have the O’Donnell jaws with the inserts for different sizes. I use the O’Donnell jaws all the time and for me don’t see a need for the cylinder jaws. For bowls I have the type M dovetail. I also have the type C jaws. I do have some other speciality jaws, but those mentioned are what I use most.
 
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I'll second the axminster advocates, mine work very well, the stainless is nice. The insert on the "C" jaws hasn't ever caused me any problems, and sometime even seems to help with the grip. I also often use the face ring, very convenient (and solid) for chucking pieces without have to remove the jaws.
 
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The Woodturning store has a sale now, probably the lowest you will find.
TWS
I think they are about the only one that sells axminster aren't they? Other than lee valley which I see says that a lot of the stuff is discontinued/no longer available and to check individual stores.

I didn't pull the trigger today because I'm trying to talk myself into a cbn wheel too. My frugalness keeps getting in my way though!
 
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I think they are about the only one that sells axminster aren't they? Other than lee valley which I see says that a lot of the stuff is discontinued/no longer available and to check individual stores.

I didn't pull the trigger today because I'm trying to talk myself into a cbn wheel too. My frugalness keeps getting in my way though!
Yes I believe only TWS sells (imports) them, the 1.25x8 kit was $339 which I ordered end of December at that price. They just put them on sale last week so I called and they gave me the difference in store credit. They should be on sale for this month at least.
 
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I just got the SK114 and Odonnell jaw set from Steve at the Woodturning Store. I'd recommend his review videos. He also shows how to remove and change jaws fairly quickly. Its a beast , heavy but solid. I still have 3 other Nova chucks but this one is great.
 
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I'm going to go with the axminster as well. I was watching the first video that Brian posted and at the very end he answered a question I was wondering about which was "what size of drill bit for the worm screw?" He said 7mm, 8mm, or 8.5. depending on the wood. I've pulled a couple out with my old setup in punky wood because I was never sure of what size hole to use. My chuck now is an unbranded chinese knockoff of some kind.
 
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I just got the SK114 and Odonnell jaw set from Steve at the Woodturning Store. I'd recommend his review videos. He also shows how to remove and change jaws fairly quickly. Its a beast , heavy but solid. I still have 3 other Nova chucks but this one is great.
Did you get the sale price? Are the O'Donnell on sale too?
 
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Unfortunately not, I got them before Christmas. The other chucks were on sale but not the 114. I believe Steve is the only distributor/dealer in the US. So you are limited to his pricing.
LeeValley may still offer some of their jaws.
 
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I have two of the sk114,s and multiple jaws. I would not switch to anything else. The prices keep going up, but that's going on with everything now......even eggs! The O'donnell jaws and the inserts for them are very useful.
 
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I can't justify two of them at the moment! I still need a cbn wheel.

Do you have the "M" jaw and if so do you find it useful?
I have both the m jaws, and the g jaws, I find the g a bit more useful. I also have the mega hollow form jaws, but rarely have I used them; they are for a huge piece
 
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I have both the m jaws, and the g jaws, I find the g a bit more useful. I also have the mega hollow form jaws, but rarely have I used them; they are for a huge piece
On the "C" jaws that come in the 114 kit, when clamping down on a tenon do you have a groove cut to match the profile of the jaws or do you let them bite into the fibers? That's kind of one thing I didn't care for was not having a dovetail for a tenon on the "C's" but the stainless steel makes up for it and it must work because a lot of people like them.
 
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On the "C" jaws that come in the 114 kit, when clamping down on a tenon do you have a groove cut to match the profile of the jaws or do you let them bite into the fibers? That's kind of one thing I didn't care for was not having a dovetail for a tenon on the "C's" but the stainless steel makes up for it and it must work because a lot of people like them.
I cut a groove in hardwood, but softer woods you may not need to. It grips very well
 
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I'm going to go with the axminster as well. I was watching the first video that Brian posted and at the very end he answered a question I was wondering about which was "what size of drill bit for the worm screw?" He said 7mm, 8mm, or 8.5. depending on the wood. I've pulled a couple out with my old setup in punky wood because I was never sure of what size hole to use. My chuck now is an unbranded chinese knockoff of some kind.
If you are usig the Axminster scew chuck there a 3 sizes of woodturning screws requiring pilot holes of 4mm ,6.35 mm and 8 mm
please see link below
 
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WOW, the chuck came today! From the looks of it I think I was seriously overloading my old grizzly chuck. I think I could use this one to do some arm curls. Hope my lathe will spin it!
 
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Well, it's May now and I keep adding to the Axminster arsenal. I have the 114 chuck, the set of O'Donnell jaws with accessory/mounting jaws to make them quicker to change, The "M" jaws with the accessory/mounting jaws. Still haven't given them a try out yet. The multi head live center for the tailstock. Still not sure how I feel about it. Seems kind of small for some of the stuff I subject things to.
And the thing I use the most are the faceplate rings. I have four of them total. I've got 2 on some vacuum chucks I'm making for whenever my frugal system gets here and one on a jam chuck I made. I rarely have to take the chuck itself off the lathe which was my goal.

I have learned that I probably should have went with an "A" jaw because it has a bigger face plate ring for larger blanks. But for now I'm just waiting for the budget to build back up and hopefully the "114's" don't go up in price with the switch to a lifetime warranty. I see at least one more in my future maybe two down the road and then I'll be set. (famous last words right?)

I just wish I could find a good source for the faceplate screws. I've learned a #9 counter sink is what to use. I would prefer a square drive in a 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 length. They seem to be unicorns. If you call them hinge screws there are a few more options but usually square drive isn't one of them. I did find a place in england (go figure) but with shipping costing more than the screws it was going to be over $60 dollars and I couldn't bring myself to do that.
 

Tom Gall

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@Sam Fleisher Don't know why you need a #9 or counter sink screw. Many options available at McFeely's. Some square-drive screws below.
#10, the head sticks up just enough that the faceplate won't sit flat against the chuck if you don't have them placed just perfect. Even then you will see daylight . Throws it off a little.
axminster responded to an email I sent asking them and they said a 4.5mm countersunk head which I found out is a #9. And I seem to be able to only get a couple of uses out of a phillips drive so I would prefer a square drive. Hence the rarity.
 
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Hi Sam

I live in the Uk and you may find the following suggestions useful
Axminster tools has a YouTube web site


Axminster have a Black Friday sale which has many items with about 15% off .It may be worth looking to see if this sale is mirrored in the USA in November

If you look on the Axminster web site at the chuck jaws see example below

There are a number of tabs with images in on the left hand side of the page If you scroll down there is a schematic image of the ideal jaw size settings I write these dimesions in felt pen on the jaws as a reference and I have printed off an image of the schematic
Other I would suggest you should not use Philips screws as they are more likely to cam out

Additionally I would scape the screws against a candle or similar to add wax to the thread to ease removal
The screw chuck kit in the Uk only comes with 2 of the scew threads The 3rd screw thread needs to be purchased separately
 
Last edited:
Joined
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Hi Sam

I live in the Uk and you may find the following suggestions useful
Axminster tools has a YouTube web site

I live in the Uk
Axminster have a Black Friday sale which has many items with about 15% off .It may be worth looking to see if this sale is mirrored in the USA in November

If you look on the Axminster web site at the chuck jaws see example below

There are a number of tabs with images in on the left hand side of the page If you scroll down there is a schematic image of the ideal size settings for the jaws I write these dimesions in felt pen on the jaws as a reference
Good tip on writing on the jaws, I use that speed sizer thing but it's only useful to get the diameter. I need to make some gauges to get my depth and length right for the spigots and recesses.

I bought the 114 set that came with the "c" jaws I just mentioned the "A" jaws because I had sent an email to axminster to see if they were ever going to offer a face plate ring for the "M" jaws. They said not at this time. But then he said best he could recommend for bigger than a "C" jaw set up was an "A" jaw with the corresponding face plate ring.

Are 4.5mm / #9 wood screws 1 1/2 inches long with a square drive common over there? The mcfeelys that tom posted about has some with a star drive but the heads have the ridges underneath and I wonder about chewing up the hole in the face plate ring eventually.
 
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Good tip on writing on the jaws, I use that speed sizer thing but it's only useful to get the diameter. I need to make some gauges to get my depth and length right for the spigots and recesses.

I bought the 114 set that came with the "c" jaws I just mentioned the "A" jaws because I had sent an email to axminster to see if they were ever going to offer a face plate ring for the "M" jaws. They said not at this time. But then he said best he could recommend for bigger than a "C" jaw set up was an "A" jaw with the corresponding face plate ring.

Are 4.5mm / #9 wood screws 1 1/2 inches long with a square drive common over there? The mcfeelys that tom posted about has some with a star drive but the heads have the ridges underneath and I wonder about chewing up the hole in the face plate ring eventually.
As stated before I live in the Uk
I am 65 years old and I have never seen a a square drive screw in the Uk but you can purchase them so they are available but not common
The screw most commonly used is a Pozzidrive
Screws are now sold are in metric sizes but I do have a large number of the old imperial UK screws enough to last me a life time
Unfortunately many of the big box stores now sell only imported screws so you need to search if you want a better quailty screw
Popular screws used in Uk
Other I actually grew up in the area of the country which made most of the Uk screws and the anchor chain for the Titanic
It is called the Black country


Titanic chain
 
Last edited:
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That was interesting reading about the black country. Made me think about the show "Peaky Blinders"!

Do your pozzidrive screws have the ridges under the head? The ones here spelled posidrive seem to or at least the ones I have found with a brand name spax.
 
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@Sam Fleisher I use the Spax screws with the Torx drive and they hold up well. Also I never cut the groove for the C jaws hard or soft wood and have never had a problem. Along with my O’Donnell jaws my M jaws are my favorite. I have two SK114s and two SK100 chucks.
 
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@Sam Fleisher I use the Spax screws with the Torx drive and they hold up well. Also I never cut the groove for the C jaws hard or soft wood and have never had a problem. Along with my O’Donnell jaws my M jaws are my favorite. I have two SK114s and two SK100 chucks.
The spax aren't chewing up the countersink in the ring?

Did you buy the O'donnell set or individuals? I see the set have went up $40 dollars just recently since I bought mine.
 
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@Sam Fleisher
I use steel faceplates. There will be some wear of course, but nothing that will be a problem for me. I do have one aluminum faceplate, but almost never use it. They might be more of a problem an aluminum faceplate.

I bought my O’Donnell jaws as a set. Maybe 3 years ago.
 
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@Sam Fleisher
I use steel faceplates. There will be some wear of course, but nothing that will be a problem for me. I do have one aluminum faceplate, but almost never use it. They might be more of a problem an aluminum faceplate.

I bought my O’Donnell jaws as a set. Maybe 3 years ago.
I use the stainless face plate rings that go with the c-jaws. I've got them on 2 vacuum chucks I'm making and a larger friction chuck I use. I like them, very handy for me. Less taking the chuck off the lathe. I don't know why that seems to be an issue with me. Probably would have been the same to remove and swap for different stuff but I priced some regular small faceplates the other day and they were the same price as the rings so I figure I'll keep going like I am.
 

Tom Gall

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I use the stainless face plate rings that go with the c-jaws. I've got them on 2 vacuum chucks I'm making and a larger friction chuck I use. I like them, very handy for me. Less taking the chuck off the lathe. I don't know why that seems to be an issue with me. Probably would have been the same to remove and swap for different stuff but I priced some regular small faceplates the other day and they were the same price as the rings so I figure I'll keep going like I am.
I was wondering the same thing. I'm just the opposite ... I always remove my chuck (especially at the end of the day). "I don't know why that seems to be an issue with me." :D Probably has no bearing (pun intended) on the subject, but my lathe is 27 years old and I've never had to change the bearings. Also a possible safety thing if I forget to turn the speed down at the end of the day.
 
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