I am new to wood turning and see the need for a bandsaw. I have a jet 12 21 so 10" bowls are about as big as I can go. What's the smallest bandsaw you would recommend? I've looked at 10" rinkon 300 too 500$ and both jet android grizzly 14" 1k to 1,400$. Is it really worth the extra money for 14"?
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Band saw recommendation
- Thread starter Scott Faulkner
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A couple features would drive my decision
Resaw depth minimum 12” for me and 16” would be better yet.
2-3 hp motor
Brake - just a nice safest feature - necessary if you have other folks in your shop
Ease of blade change
Large table
Lots of choices
Resaw depth minimum 12” for me and 16” would be better yet.
2-3 hp motor
Brake - just a nice safest feature - necessary if you have other folks in your shop
Ease of blade change
Large table
Lots of choices
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Thanks. I like the feature based recommendation. I think this list would put me in the 2k range though and I think that's going to be out of budget.
Roger Wiegand
Beta Tester
Hard to beat a used 14" delta with a riser block for a bargain choice. They typically sell around $500 in excellent condition in our part of the world, and you can easily put a bigger motor on it if you find it underpowered. No comparison to to the 20" SCMI/Centauro I have now, but I did plenty of resawing of 10-12" boards on it for many years (I had a 2 hp motor on mine). It's a little slower, but a tenth the price. Retrofitting OK (not great) dust collection and bigger tables is reasonably straightforward. I now keep it with a skinny blade for cutting curved work. Many people will say it's unable to put adequate tension on the blade, all I can say is I got good results over a couple decades of use.
Yes, it is worth quite a bit to go from a 10" saw to a 14" saw. Given the number of times 14 was too small to do what I needed to do I would have found 10 to be intolerable.
I don't have much experience with green turning blanks on the bandsaw as I use a chainsaw to knock the corners off 99% of the time, but you're going to want a blade with a relatively wide kerf and 2-3 tpi skip tooth design so it can clear the swarf easily.
Yes, it is worth quite a bit to go from a 10" saw to a 14" saw. Given the number of times 14 was too small to do what I needed to do I would have found 10 to be intolerable.
I don't have much experience with green turning blanks on the bandsaw as I use a chainsaw to knock the corners off 99% of the time, but you're going to want a blade with a relatively wide kerf and 2-3 tpi skip tooth design so it can clear the swarf easily.
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Not to mention, most bandsaws advertised "size" - That is , say a 9 inch - refers to the width of a board you can run through it between blade and upright column (generally about the same as the wheel diameter) and has nothing to do with what you are probably looking for which is Re-Saw capacity (meaning how thick a piece of wood can it cut) - That is, assuming you want to cut bowl blanks round.
So yes the 14 inch ones from Rikon , Jet, Grizzly in the 1K to 1.5K range would be very much worth the money. My 9 inch benchtop bandsaw has about a 2-1/2 inch resaw capacity , so it is rather useless for cutting bowl blanks round (I got it for some simple pattern making for flatwork) - So the few times I wished I'd had a bandsaw to cut a bowl blank, is when I realized in hindsight that I should have saved up the money and spent another 600 to upgrade to the 14 inch model, and it would have been far more useful in my shop.
So yes the 14 inch ones from Rikon , Jet, Grizzly in the 1K to 1.5K range would be very much worth the money. My 9 inch benchtop bandsaw has about a 2-1/2 inch resaw capacity , so it is rather useless for cutting bowl blanks round (I got it for some simple pattern making for flatwork) - So the few times I wished I'd had a bandsaw to cut a bowl blank, is when I realized in hindsight that I should have saved up the money and spent another 600 to upgrade to the 14 inch model, and it would have been far more useful in my shop.
My first bandsaw was a 12 inch Powermtic with a 3/4 hp motor. When I could cut slabs flat enough with the chainsaw, some times close was good enough....., then I would use the bandsaw to cut rounds. If you are bowl turning, you need a good chainsaw and a good bandsaw. Years later, I got a Laguna 16HD that cut 16 inches high and had a 4,5 hp. Baldor motor on it. It will still walk through anything I put on it. While expensive, I was selling, and it more than paid for itself the first year I had it. The older Delta's with the riser block, as long as it also has a 1 hp motor, might be a good compromise.
robo hippy
robo hippy
You have a smaller lathe, for now, but if you continue in turning you may find yourself gravitating to a larger lathe. With that in mind, I also think a 14" BS is a good idea.
I think the first consideration is electricity. Do you have 240V available or would you like to keep it 120V?
I think the first consideration is electricity. Do you have 240V available or would you like to keep it 120V?
Dave Landers
Beta Tester
Agree. I have one, used it for a few decades before upgrading. Like Roger said, you can upgrade the motor if necessary. And the table is sorta small but relatively easy to add on a shop-made extension.
You'd think that for 10" bowls you only need a 10" saw. But like @Brian Gustin mentions, you need to look at resaw height instead of wheel size. Also, that log with the 10" bowl inside it is going to be larger than 10". And when you max out the saw's size capability, it's going to be underpowered - especially cutting wet wood.
I had a an import 10” when I started turning, and it wasn’t really sufficient. I bought a used Delta 14 for $500, as Reed suggests, and it’s served me well.
I would keep my eye open for a good used bandsaw. Check Craig's list, other near-by woodworking clubs and other places. Do not be in a hurry and only buy a quality tools. Many times a woodworker will pass away and the family will be happy to sell their tools. I found a sale at a small woodworking shop that was going out of business and bought a 20 inch Agazzani bandsaw in excellent condition for $1000. Also remember, never pay more than half price for a used tool.
Just to pile on--no matter what size band saw someone has, in the back of their mind they're always thinking, "I wonder if I should have a bigger/more powerful bandsaw..."
Great advice. I look daily. Good criteria on price but I find it a rare thing tomorrow see them listed any where near 1/2
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I have a Grizzly 14 with riser (a must) and could not do it with anything smaller. Wish it had a 2hp but cuts well as long as it has a sharp blade. Has lasted well over 20 years. On that 1/2 price it only holds if they want to bet rid of it bad and no one else is in the market. By the way whatever you get you will want to upgrade to Carter Guides.
Thanks so much. What is the riser? I'm not familiar with that. I will kee the guides in mind that's great information
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Riser is a block that goes in the back to raise the head. This increases resaw capability and increases the length of the blade used.
I used a Ridgid 14" (Delta clone) for several years before getting Laguna. With the riser block mentioned by others it was functional. Kept it, thinking i'd keep a thinner blade on it but haven't used it in probably 5 years. The 12" resaw the riser block provides helps if you learn how to manage expectations. The extra height takes the saw beyond its intended use, but very capable. You're about 3 hours from me (i worked a few MIS races as a firefighter--made that trip some. Not nearly as much as Indy, but enough to remember seeing signs for Cement City). I'd be willing to sell if you're having trouble finding something local. I could use the space, that's for sure!! If nothing else, you'd be welcome to come down and see what we're all talking about, have a coffee, and provide me with an excuse to clean out my garage and get turning again!!
earl
earl
Pay attention to your specs if you have certain needs. Contrary to popular belief a 10”, 12”, 14”, etc. bandsaw does not refer to the cut but the wheel diameter on standard 2 wheel bandsaws. As such, the width of cut between the blade and column will be slightly less.
FYI - you dont have to have a bandsaw. A chainsaw and a 4” hand grinder with a “chainsaw wheel” can cut and trim blanks to fit. Not as nice as a bandsaw, but works just fine for me.
Most bandsaws have very small top tables. Depending on what you are doing, you might have to build your own. I do want more on the infeed and outfeed areas. Important to leave room for yourself too.
robo hippy
robo hippy
I have a JET 14" bandsaw and would not consider anything smaller. Anything less than that really restricts what you can do.
I just picked up a Rockwell model 28-3X0 today for $225 from a local school, nice 20” saw with 12” resaw capacity. Really excited to get some wood on it and try it out
Wow nice deal.
Thanks Earl appreciate it. I might take you up on that offer!
As long as you don’t maim yourself with it
(this is just a half-joke Doug)
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Oh its valid. There’s an old saying “you need to be smarter than the tool”. Some tools need to be approached with great respect and admiration of what they are capable of. Every time time I spin up my table saw, a chainsaw wheel, or a chainsaw, my heart jumps a little - just a reminder of how quickly one of them can ruin your life if not given proper respect.As long as you don’t maim yourself with it
Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of the Harvey bandsaws. I’m looking at the 14 and 15 inch 3hp models.
I have 2 friends who bought the 15. I cut a lot of blanks on it. Absolutely a delight. It was all white oak, so it was great to not worry about staining the table.
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I posted this somewhere - maybe another thread. I just purchased the Ambassador C14Pro. I am very happy with it. You can check out the specs on Harvey's site. Sign up for their e-mails and get it when on sale. I purchased it when on sale, plus 50% off shipping, plus a free wheel base "bundle" special. I changed the blade from the 3/4" to a Timberwolf 1/2" 3TPI blade. Cuts like butter thru blanks up to 12" deep when making a bowl blank (that's the largest I have cut - it has a 14" cutting capacity) - the 3hp motor is a beast. The guides are super easy to set. No movement when tightening. I have both dust collection fittings attached (they're both 4"); keeps the interior super clean - major big difference from my old POS Craftsman. The stainless steel table is super slick, no stickiness to it at all. I still wax it - just because. Love the foot brake to stop it. Runs off of a 240v / 20A dedicated circuit (I purposely installed 5 dedicated 240v / 20A circuits anticipating tool upgrades when I built my shop last year). I was already to go purchase the Laguna 14BX, but after watching several more reviews (do a search on youtube for Stacey Lewis Designs' review), was convinced to go with the Harvey. When I purchased, the price was the same between the two, I just had to pay the shipping (at 50% off). I could have driven to Portsmouth (NH) to pick-up the Laguna at a Woodcraft (they had one in stock); but the features of the Harvey convinced me to get it instead. I really can't say how pleased I am with the Harvey. If you have any specific questions, let me know and I'm happy to answer if I can. Oh - I did have to contact customer service (via e-mail) and they responded within an hour and helped me thru my issues. So, big plus for customer service.
@Joel Daniels , Just curious, but will the stainless steel table hold a magnet?
I just checked and yes, a magnet sticks to it.
Have a grizz 19 with 3 horse motor, love it! Use Laguna resaw king blades for most shop stuff and use 3/8” Carter blades for roughing turning blanks.
For me i like to saw veneer for boxes or cabinetry and millwork, so the bigger saw is a necessity.
For me i like to saw veneer for boxes or cabinetry and millwork, so the bigger saw is a necessity.
Excellent write-up, very helpful. I am so jonezing for this purchase. I may go with the 15 inch just because I use my bandsaw so much and don't have a dedicated table saw set up in my small shop. I think you are telling me exactly what my gut has been telling me, that this is the best bandsaw out there at this price point.
You've almost convinced me to want a new bandsaw. The price looks good, specs and features seem nice. The only thing that concerns me is throat depth, 13" according to the spec table. I've gotten used to the extra width from my 18" Rikon and use it often, sometimes just to save getting out a skill saw to break down a long board. I'll have to consider that, probably a minor inconvenience. Their universal gauge add-on looks quite interesting!
I like the dust pickups - much like the Rikon. The blade guides are also similar in design. I like the foot brake. (The Rikon doesn't have one but I've started using the method Raffan showed in one of his videos.)
I like the rust-resistant table too - I've seen minor rust on my cast iron table after leaving a block of wet oak on it for just a short time!
Some questions:
- What's the miter gauge like?
- Is the fence quick to adjust for both width and for tracking if needed?
- Does it have a good scale to set the fence? I can set the fence on my Rikon to 1/32" in seconds and it's always accurate. (has a little magnifier to aid in setting.)
- Do you know how long the blade is? Mine is 11'10" for 426 teeth on my 3tpi blades each time I sharpen which takes a while. (I sharpen each blade at least three times before replacing it.) The Rikon also has just just 12.25" cutting height - the 14" would be nice.
- Does it use crowned tires?
- Does it feel stable with heavy use? Vibration? From the specs looks lighter in weight than the Rikon.
- Also, maybe a odd question - does it have a lifting lug/ring on the top? I found that SO handy when moving the Rikon from my garage shop to my forever shop.
- In your research, did you find any significant comments about dealing with the Harvey customer service? I've only had two issues with the Rikon - the power switch quit after about 10 years and I found an identical one one Amazon, and the motor capacitor eventually quit - Rikon was very quick and sent a new one at a reasonable cost.
I should probably find a dealer and go look at one. But hearing from someone using one would be so valuable.
Hmmm - I wonder if I have room in the shop to keep the Rikon and add the Harvey. Or maybe give the Rikon to someone.
You said you just got it. Please report back with experiences, pro or con. Thanks!
JKJ
Lots to process here.
1. No miter gauge came with it - I’m using an old one that I already had
2. Fence is very easy to move/adjust.
3. It does have a scale, but I haven’t used it. I always measure from the blade with a ruler. It looked close to accurate, but can’t attest to it.
4. Blade is 125”. I don’t know the number of teeth, but I suppose that would depend on the TPI of the blade. I have a 1/2” 3TPI Timberwolf blade on it.
5. The tires are a little crowned, but not as much as my old craftsman I had.
6. Extremely solid, zero vibration. Not even cutting a 12” oak bowl blank.
7. No lifting lug. Would have been helpful to get it off the palet. I had to shimmy it, kinda slide it off and onto the wheel base. It is very heavy for a single person to move!
8. I did contact Harvey customer service. They responded within a couple of hours and went overboard solving my questions. I had seen other independent reviews for Harvey’s customer service and they were all positive. I’m sure there are others that have had issues, but I didn’t.
Even though I’ve only have had it for a little more than a month, I’ve used it almost everyday. I am very happy with the saw - its performance, its quality, its power. Coming from an old Craftsman, I can only compare it that. It rips boards with ease. It powers thru large (to me) bowl blanks with no hesitation and very smooth operations. With the 1/2” blade, I’m able to cut a smooth 8” circle with no problems - no binding up, no hesitation. I spray the table with Bostik Glide Coat, but I don’t think it really needs it. More habit than anything.
Sorry for the extra long reply; Hope this helps.
Edit: @John K Jordan sign up for their e-mails and look for it on sale. Often goes down to ~$2199. Also look for shipping deals - I got it at 50% off shipping. Oh - and they do not have distributors; you can only buy them direct. They are in California.
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Joel, thanks for the very helpful reply. You told me a lot of what I wanted to know. I'll start looking into one soon. (In the middle of ground prep for another building behind the shop at the moment!)
JKJ