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Bandsaw Blades

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Aug 10, 2021
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Being quite new to the Turning world of wood, are there any strong opinions among turners regarding the best size and tooth configuration for bandsaw blades? I have a Laguna 14BX that is used in my "other" wood connected endeavors. Thanks in advance.

Dan
 
Joined
Nov 22, 2009
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Midland, MI
Yes.

A search on the term "bandsaw blade" will bring up a wealth of information from many previous discussions on this topic.
 
Joined
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For making bowl blanks from log sections, you can’t beat the “Woodturners Blade” from Highland Woodworking, or the Lennox Diemaster 2 blades. Both are .035 thickness, and 3 teeth per inch is a great, yet aggressive tooth pattern. The Woodturners blades have a wide teeth set, and are 3/8” wide, for making curves, and is the best configuration I have found. I have 2 bandsaws, a 14” with riser block, and a big 18” saw. You can order to the length you need on Highland’s website. They last well, and if you know how to do it, they can be resharpened while on the saw.
 
Joined
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Penrose, NC
You may also have a saw sharpening service near you. These often make bandsaw blades. My local one makes one for me configured like over described above - from Lenox, bi-metal for about $16. That is a 162" blade for a 18" band saw. If you have priced blades...you recognize this as a bargain. So - check with your local guys if you have any.
 
Joined
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You're lucky my local sharpening service charged twice that. I found a place in NC that made a great blade at a great price but the guy had to sell the business due to health reasons and the new guy raised the prices. If I need them again I will be looking for another place.
 

Randy Anderson

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Lots of posts here on the forum on the topic with lots of opinions and options. I've settled on 3tpi 1/2" blades for my Rikon 14" bandsaw and have tried a variety of the "green wood" blades you can find online and on Amazon, plus a few no name I picked up at the local woodworking store. I have a bad habit of ruining blades and almost always know what I was doing that was not smart to try and do or forgot to check first. Decided recently that until I can be smarter about what I try to cut and how, I don't deserve high end blades and bought a couple of Olson blades. Very inexpensive compared to what others can cost. After using them for a while I've been very pleased with them and haven't ruined one, yet. My experience is that cutting big blanks of very wet green wood can be tricky and easy to get a blade bound up and ruined if you don't think the cut and movements through. Hard to backtrack a deep circular cut on a wet blank when the wood binds up the blade or your blank gets tilted or you're pushing too hard to get the blank to move like you want and it jumps and, well, it can be a mess. That said, it can work great if paying attention and careful.
 
Joined
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I have been using the Lennox bimetal blades for years. 1/2 inch wide, 3 tpi. l cut wet wood 95% of the time and they will walk through just about anything. I do use the 1 1/4 inch wide Lennox blade on my big bandsaw, a Laguna 16HD. The half inch blade will cut 5 inch diameter circles fairly easily. Best to make sure the surface that is on the table is pretty flat or you can and will get binding of the blade, some times even bending the blade or breaking it. The bimetal blades can be resharpened, at least the 3 tpi ones. I have it done through a local saw service. I am also lucky to have some one locally who will make them to order.

robo hippy
 
Joined
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I have been using the Lennox bimetal blades for years. 1/2 inch wide, 3 tpi. l cut wet wood 95% of the time and they will walk through just about anything. I do use the 1 1/4 inch wide Lennox blade on my big bandsaw, a Laguna 16HD. The half inch blade will cut 5 inch diameter circles fairly easily. Best to make sure the surface that is on the table is pretty flat or you can and will get binding of the blade, some times even bending the blade or breaking it. The bimetal blades can be resharpened, at least the 3 tpi ones. I have it done through a local saw service. I am also lucky to have some one locally who will make them to order.

robo hippy
Reed, what are the specifics on the 1-1/4" blade you use on your big bandsaw? Is it also 3tpi? Any other designations such as "hook tooth" or "skip tooth", etc. that I need to be aware of?

I have a new bandsaw due in later this month (18" Rikon, 4HP) and plan to mow through some logs for bowl blanks with a larger blade to reduce chainsaw time (and save my back) then switch to a smaller blade, if need be, to round them. I plan to use a lift table after squaring off logs w/ the chainsaw to move heavier pieces to the bandsaw to slab them. I have watched your videos on the subject, just can't recall specifics about the larger blade. Thanks
 
Joined
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I believe the blade is the same one that the Wood Mizer type bandsaw mills use. Teeth are about 3/4 inch apart. You can probably find a bandsaw blade maker up there in Vancouver, and ask them. I buy mine from Oregon Industrial supply here in Eugene. These blades are made specifically for ripping logs.

robo hippy
 
Joined
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I believe the blade is the same one that the Wood Mizer type bandsaw mills use. Teeth are about 3/4 inch apart. You can probably find a bandsaw blade maker up there in Vancouver, and ask them. I buy mine from Oregon Industrial supply here in Eugene. These blades are made specifically for ripping logs.

robo hippy
Thanks, this is helpful, and I know a few people to ask about this
 
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