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Bandsaw for turning

Bill Boehme said:
Odie, I think that is a fairly common part if you're talking about the cast aluminum-zinc alloy that adjusts the upper wheel tilt and tension. I bought a Delta clone about 35 years ago and that part broke when the saw was only 5 or 6 years old. The aftermarket replacement was much higher quality and is still in perfect shape.
Click to expand...

Bill.....Yes, I think you are speaking of the same part that broke. I'm not aware of a replacement part.....where would I look to find one?

I'll call Grizzly in the morning to check.

In the mean time, I've been comparing bandsaws all day here. I think if I had to buy another band saw, the Grizzly G0817 with the foot brake, is what I'll probably settle on:

www.grizzly.com

14" Super HD 2 HP Resaw Bandsaw w/ Foot Brake - Grizzly Industrial, Inc.

<h1>G0817 14" Super HD 2 HP Resaw Bandsaw w/ Foot Brake</h1> <h2>This award-winning heavy-duty bandsaw features an industry-leading 14" resaw capacity!</h2> <p>The G0817 14" Super HD 2 HP Resaw Bandsaw was awarded Top Tool by <em>WOOD Magazine</em> for its performance and combination of features...
www.grizzly.com www.grizzly.com
1660803209985.png
 
Back when bandsaws were the hot topic in woodworking magazines you could find the part anywhere. I can't remember for certain, but it was either Rockler Hardware or a vendor at a woodworking show. I also bought parts from Jet when they had a bandsaw that looked exactly like mine except for the paint color and name tags. That particular part is probably identical on a lot of bandsaws that are the same style.

The prices sure have gone up. I think that I paid less than $200 for my Delta clone. BTW, the reason for a foot brake is that the wheels are cast iron and very heavy. It will take a long time for the blade to stop if you just let it coast. The brake is nice to have on that kind of saw.

I just noticed that the wheels on the Griz bandsaws aren't solid.
 
If it’s the part I’m thinking of on my Delta saw, I imagine most of the stress is vertically applied rather than laterally. It’s got narrower wings that fit in the adjusting slots, but I wonder if it’d be worth trying to fabricate a copy out of hard maple or some similar hard, tight-grained wood. Maybe even laminate up with epoxy. Just a thought.
 
Odie,
That part broke on my 30 yr old Delta clone. I ordered one from Grizzly for (I think) the G0550. It took a slight mod to make it fit but it's working perfectly.
 
Tom De Winter said:
Odie,
That part broke on my 30 yr old Delta clone. I ordered one from Grizzly for (I think) the G0550. It took a slight mod to make it fit but it's working perfectly.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much, Tom.....

I'll be checking in with Grizzly this morning to see if I can get the part.

My model # is WBS-1601 with a stapled insert that updates the model number as G1538

There is no part number, only identifies it in the parts list as "upper wheel sliding brkt"

I still have the original manual, and the printing is not from Grizzly. My best guess is I purchased this band saw about 1987-1990. I'm guessing it was the very first 16" band saw offered by Grizzly.

-----odie-----
 
Tom De Winter said:
Odie,
That part broke on my 30 yr old Delta clone. I ordered one from Grizzly for (I think) the G0550. It took a slight mod to make it fit but it's working perfectly.
Click to expand...


Hello Tom.

I just got off the phone with Grizzly, and the original part for my bandsaw is long discontinued.

G0550 is a planer, but G0555 is a 14" bandsaw that does look very similar to my model G1538 16" bandsaw. Here is a link to the part, and it does look a bit different, but it may retrofit. Was your bandsaw Delta clone a 16" or 14" bandsaw? Here is a link to the part on the G0555 bandsaw:

www.grizzly.com

UPPER WHEEL SLIDING BRACKET V2.07.07 - Grizzly Industrial, Inc.

Grizzly P0555030A - UPPER WHEEL SLIDING BRACKET V2.07.07
www.grizzly.com www.grizzly.com

What was the slight modification you mentioned?

Thank you for your help.

-----odie-----
 
I would be hesitant to get a Shop Fox anything. A friend bought a Shop Fox lathe and ended up sending it back. Just too many things totally wrong with it straight out of the crate.

robo hippy
 
odie said:
Here is a link to the part on the G0555 bandsaw:

www.grizzly.com

UPPER WHEEL SLIDING BRACKET V2.07.07 - Grizzly Industrial, Inc.

Grizzly P0555030A - UPPER WHEEL SLIDING BRACKET V2.07.07
www.grizzly.com www.grizzly.com


-----odie-----
Click to expand...
I recognize those.. back when I was selling Ridgid parts on eBay (Ridgid had a 14 inch bandsaw) Those pieces sold like hotcakes, everybody needed them... then Ridgid (TTI - Techtronics, Inc that also made Ryobi, Milwaukee, and other formerly "quality" brands) decided to discontinue manufacturing them. Always suspected that the Grizzly units were coming off the same factory assembly line as the Ridgid & Ryobi , so I long ago decided there's no way I'd ever buy a Grizzly anything (or any of its clones) they were often a crapshoot, one batch of 100 pieces, you might find 1 defective, the next batch, I'd be having to replace 15% to 20% of them under warranty due to defects... So any time I see someone "highly recommend" one of those lower end brands, Thought always crosses my mind "They must have gotten one of the good ones"
 
Oldie, I should never be allowed to quote numbers from memory.
I’ll look at the part in the morning and try to recall what I had to do to make it work. Whatever it was wasn’t a big deal
Mine is a 14” saw.
 
Tom De Winter said:
Oldie, I should never be allowed to quote numbers from memory.
I’ll look at the part in the morning and try to recall what I had to do to make it work. Whatever it was wasn’t a big deal
Mine is a 14” saw.
Click to expand...

Tom.....Lucky the photo of the part was photographed on a 1" grid, and using that, I was able to calculate the overall width of the "upper wheel sliding bracket" for the G0555 (current production) band saw is 4 1/4". (I used a ruler to measure the width of the part on my monitor) This is an exact match of the broken part on my bandsaw. Since it is current production, I'm assuming it is made with an updated composition that is likely stronger than the original.

I ordered this part yesterday.

(Anyone care to check my math, on the width of this part? For those of you who remember basic algebra equations, this is an easy calculation......but, I admit to being a little rusty on my algebra! :))

-----odie-----
 
Looking at the bandsaw doesn't tell me much. The more I think about it I believe the mods to make it work were more extensive than I first recalled.
Part 35-3 is the part that broke on my saw. There was some difference in the pivot pins (34) and the pulley shaft (35-1)
The original pivot pins were a press fit in 35-3 and I had to add the set screws (30A-1). Also, something was different with the pulley shaft (35-1) and I put the old one in the new bracket (35-3). I remember using my mill to drill for the cross pin (35-2) which wasn't used on my original.
Think the project took me half a day with most of the time spent head-scratching.
 

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Tom De Winter said:
Looking at the bandsaw doesn't tell me much. The more I think about it I believe the mods to make it work were more extensive than I first recalled.
Part 35-3 is the part that broke on my saw. There was some difference in the pivot pins (34) and the pulley shaft (35-1)
The original pivot pins were a press fit in 35-3 and I had to add the set screws (30A-1). Also, something was different with the pulley shaft (35-1) and I put the old one in the new bracket (35-3). I remember using my mill to drill for the cross pin (35-2) which wasn't used on my original.
Think the project took me half a day with most of the time spent head-scratching.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks for this information, Tom. Although I have yet to disassemble my bandsaw, I can see the bracket 30A through the opening in the interior of the wheel cover. I can clearly see the part 30A is broken at the hinge point where the pivot pin 34 from part 35-3 enters it. I don't believe part 35-3 is broken like yours was, but won't know for sure until I disassemble it.

Note: My bandsaw has none of the quick change features, and is a fairly simple design with the tension being a simple screw of the tension adjustment knob.....It's not showing on your diagram, but the adjustment knob is likely to be part 130.

I'm surprised the new "upper wheel sliding bracket 30A is so cheap, but it's on the way. I can get by without a bandsaw for awhile, but not for too long of a time.

Wish me luck, and we'll see how it turns out... :)

-----odie-----
 
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john lucas said:
I never de tension my saws. I built one for one of my 14" saws but never saw any advantage to it.
Click to expand...

Neither do I, John.

I saw that in a video about bandsaws......something about extending the life of bandsaw blades. Not sure I go along with that, but that's what I heard.

Tom calls it a "tension release", and wouldn't that have more to do with quick changing of bandsaw blades?

-----odie-----
 
My two cents, (Note, I do not have a bandsaw other than a little POS Skil 9 inch) The theory behind de-tensioning bandsaw blades may be quite the same as putting a car up on blocks for storage - If they sit in one place with all the weight on it in one spot for too long, then can develop flat spots on the tires - So, I'd think the advice to de-tension really applies for "occasional use" users, but not such a big deal for the ones that use the bandsaw almost daily (or weekly) - Likewise if your bandsaw blade is hot when you shut down, you will have localized heat in one spot on your tires (such as it is, I doubt the heat would be hot enough to actually do any damage, but if blade is unusually hot, it *could* slightly deform your bandsaw tires in the spot where the blade makes contact...)

Just trying to think on it logically, but other than that I don't see much point in de-tensioning , I doubt it stresses the blade itself any, and the wheels/tires that carry the band, I would think were engineered sufficiently to support the loading... so only thing that kinda sorta makes sense would be how it may affect the tires (flat spots could cause vibration I imagine)
 
The fancier ones have three positions: Loose, for blade changes; Storage, just enough tension to hold blade in place; and Run, full tension. Someday if I'm bored I'll add the middle detent to mine. I really like it for blade changes but find I seldom relieve tension otherwise. I just got tired of cranking on the knob to change blades and it looked like a good idea at the time. Every once in awhile I need a metal working project. Just finishing a hollowing system now.

Brian, I think you are mostly right. Though my blade is never that hot and my tires are old and hard - not likely to get a flat spot.

John, hope we haven't hijacked your thread too badly.
 
odie said:
Bill.....Yes, I think you are speaking of the same part that broke. I'm not aware of a replacement part.....where would I look to find one?

I'll call Grizzly in the morning to check.

In the mean time, I've been comparing bandsaws all day here. I think if I had to buy another band saw, the Grizzly G0817 with the foot brake, is what I'll probably settle on:

www.grizzly.com

14" Super HD 2 HP Resaw Bandsaw w/ Foot Brake - Grizzly Industrial, Inc.

<h1>G0817 14" Super HD 2 HP Resaw Bandsaw w/ Foot Brake</h1> <h2>This award-winning heavy-duty bandsaw features an industry-leading 14" resaw capacity!</h2> <p>The G0817 14" Super HD 2 HP Resaw Bandsaw was awarded Top Tool by <em>WOOD Magazine</em> for its performance and combination of features...
www.grizzly.com www.grizzly.com
View attachment 46127
Click to expand...

Just ordered the Grizzly Super HD G0817 14" resaw bandsaw with the foot brake......thanks for all your help with this, guys.

-----odie-----
1661353505789.png
 
Tom De Winter said:
Hope it proves to be a great saw for you.
Tom
Click to expand...

Thanks, Tom..... :)

I'm already pondering ways to utilize the capabilities of this new bandsaw in ways that might enhance my woodturning efforts!

-----odie-----
 
All of the above will do a decent job with the right blade.
Take into consideration
resaw height, most will have 11-12" but they might be underpowered to cut at that depth all the time.
Motor. Bigger is better, 220V is better, because you can put a bigger motor on 220V.
Wheel size - not often considered, but bigger is better because you get more depth of cut, not to be confused with resaw.

I have had 3 bandsaws. A delta with riser, a Laguna 16HD, great saw, and now a Laguna 24x24. 24"+ of resaw is intimidating but with an outfeed table and a hoist, I didn't use the chainsaw much anymore.

While I don't deal with big logs mush anymore, and I don't do small blade stuff, the latest saw will be my last.
 
odie said:
Thanks, Tom..... :)

I'm already pondering ways to utilize the capabilities of this new bandsaw in ways that might enhance my woodturning efforts!

-----odie-----
Click to expand...

I have access to a supply of burls that need a flat surface to work with. I'm thinking of some sort of handmade sled, where the burl can be attached, and using this 14" resaw capability, will make these burls applicable to my tool capabilities, in order to bring them to a finish.....

This is a "woo hoo" moment! :)....and glad I finally decided to upgrade my bandsaw!

(If someone has made a "sled" for this purpose, I'd like to hear about it......thanks!)

-----odie-----
 
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I built it myself using linear rails. Was one of those projects where everything seemed to go right. Works great, has a travel of 60 inches.
Will post pictures when I get back to the shop, in Hawaii right now,
 
odie said:
(If someone has made a "sled" for this purpose, I'd like to hear about it......thanks!)

-----odie-----
Click to expand...
This is what I use with the downside that it uses screws to hold wood. There are some plans that also use clamps to hold in place.
Bandsaw Sled
 
I use a similar sled for my saw. I didn't put in a cross miter slot so I can skew the log as desired. Might be a good idea to make the cross miter bar removable for the best of both worlds.

I absolutely hate having to run screws into the wood. I find that I'm always skimping on the length to minimize damage but sacrificing holding power.
 
Promised pictures, sorry about the delay. I use the sliding table for breaking down large pieces of wood, such as slabs, and for creating blanks.
Most logs I cut to length and split using a chainsaw, the rest is done on the bandsaw.
Picture descriptions in order.
1) cutting a flat on one edge so the back can be cut

20221112_155501.jpg

2,3,4) cutting the back, this cut was high up so I attached additional support. 5) cutting the back of this blank does not require additional support.

20221112_160157.jpgWWW20221112_160204.jpgWWW20221112_160243.jpg
 
Continuation more pictures:
6) it cuts pretty square, I have a more complex resaw jig attachment, this was just the blank on edge on the table and against the fence

20221112_162128.jpg

7) circle cutting jig, pretty simple with the table just a bolt stub in a t-slot, then clamp a stop on the table so the front of the blade is centered on the track.

20221112_173014.jpg


8&9) You can see the stop clamped on, blank on the stub. This table makes using the bandsaw much safer.

20221112_174038.jpgWWW20221112_174207.jpg
 
Reed thanks for the warning. I did notice ring shake in one of the stumps cut for blanks. Most of it has been cut out and discarded, but will double check before putting on the lathe.

One more picture, ripping a 12/4 piece of Cherry. This piece has the pith in it and a lot of cracking. Milling down to get wood for legs for a Shaker table.
 

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David Wrate said:
Not to hijack this thread but what are the signs of ring shake Reed?
Click to expand...
Here's a picture of ring shake in some 100 year old red oak I recently had to discard. These would be the types of cracks in the yearly growth rings you would like to avoid. Sometimes you can dig deeper and they disappear but for me if they do another one pops up in a different location. Pretty much, crappy wood & time to start on a different piece.
ring shank1.jpg
 
Dave Delo said:
Here's a picture of ring shake in some 100 year old red oak I recently had to discard. These would be the types of cracks in the yearly growth rings you would like to avoid. Sometimes you can dig deeper and they disappear but for me if they do another one pops up in a different location. Pretty much, crappy wood & time to start on a different piece.
View attachment 47977
Click to expand...
Ah, that's super helpful. Thanks!
 
I like the above picture of ring shake because if you are a beginner, it is not readily apparent to many. I would say it belongs in woodturning safety 101! Some times the ring shake is obvious like that dark ring in that one log. Some times it is easy to see, and some times not. Just depends on the wood. I had one ash bowl for several years and then it cracked along one of the growth rings. After looking at it, that one ring was a bit darker than the rest of them. The danger is that they can come apart when turning. I am getting better at finding these flaws. Some woods do seem to be more prone to it than others, and I think ash is one.

robo hippy
 
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