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Best/Easiest way to remove a lacquer finish?

Grey Darrah

Grey Darrah

Joined
May 6, 2018
Messages
74
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Location
Cartersville, GA
I've got a large-ish (12" tall by about 10" diameter) HF that I put 9 coats of lacquer on, let cure for 2 months, then sanded back a bit and polished. It's got issues...a number of areas with blushing (it's a real problem here in the humid southeast) and a number of small areas that got over sanded down to the wood.

I want to get rid of the lacquer and finish it in oil or wipe on poly (haven't decided yet). Is sanding it down the best way to go, or is there a chemical option that would be quicker? My only hesitation in sanding is that I already have the wood sanded to 2000 grit. I'm guessing that to sand off the lacquer, I'm probably going to need to go at it with something like 120 and then work my way through all the grits again.

Thanks,

Grey
 
lacquer thinner will remove most of it. You might need to use a small brush to get it out of any pores or cracks. Then sand. then you will be good to go. Are you spraying your lacquer, brushing, or wipe on. I find a bit a retarder works well for my spray finishes. I have been using minwax wipe on poly for the last year and really like it. I still use lacquer when I need a really thick glossy finish but I really like the gloss that I get from a few coats of minwax followed by the Bealle buffing system. And I'm in Middle Tennessee and know about the humidity problems.
 
I find wipe on poly more difficult to apply than lacquer. Most people apply several coats of shellac first, then the poly. What you did in a couple of days with lacquer will take a week with wipe on poly. Since poly dries slower, you'll have to sand it when done to remove dust nits and imperfections as well. Then if you want to buff it, you have to wait longer than with the lacquer since poly stays soft for a longer period of time.
 
Wipe on poly dries very quickly. You obviously dont get the build of several.coats of lacquer but it leaves a beautiful finish after buffing. I get lots of compliments on my finishing. I do use lacquer when I want that thicker look.
 
I've never used lacquer thinner to take dried lacquer off of something. What's the process...just soak a few paper towels and start rubbing?

Thanks,
Grey
 
You can use paint stripper on lacquer also. I use it on guitars to just strip a small area I want to glue. You just slop it on, wait 10 minutes and scrape it off with a cabinet scraper or similar. Wash it after with water to get rid of the stripper residue which is acidic. I would re-sand after this 220 up to whatever you want.
 
Note also, with your original post with worm holes, with lacquer you can drop fill the holes. Just drip a tiny blob of lacquer in the hole off of a tooth pick or tiny brush. Repeat until the lacquer is proud of the surface and then sand locally down to the surface, spray a coat or 2 over the top, allow it all to cure and then start your sanding / polishing.
 
When I have used lacquer thinner to remove a bad finish I have found a couple of things the hard way.
Depending on the type of wood it may also remove color ( extractives in the wood that are soluble in thinner ).
Lacquer thinner is Nasty, wear a respirator rated for that type of chemical, or have ample fresh air.
I always recoated with lacquer after I removed the defective finish.
I am not sure if any residue soaked into the wood will effect another type of finish ( oil or poly )
 
To go one step further on spot filling holes with lacquer thinner, I use a razor blade first to get the hardened dot close to flush with the surface. Then it's easy to sand level. If you just try sanding it to level its too easy to sand through the finish around the dot. Sometimes I'll use a file after the razor to really get close to level before final sanding.
 
If you used something other than lacquer when you polished, thinner and sanding is best. However, lacquer will burn into previous coats, so you may be able to salvage without taking it off. I would spray another coat, then sand after it dries (not months), if you see improvement repeat, if not then take it off.
 
maybe I broke some rule, but I have used lacquer sanding sealer and then used Antique Oil over it with no problem. In the case of maple it seems to help keep the white color. I have also used shellac as a base cot but have had problems buff though the top coat of Antique Oil. Allyn
 
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