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Best Full-Sized Lathe / Upgrade Help

Joined
Jul 10, 2017
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It does look massive! Not that it's a bad thing. Just have to plan a bit differently. I called Harvey today to see what the maximum height to spindle is and ask the length. Had to leave a msg. Same w/ Laguna. Another question I will ask (but not sure they'll answer) is what the cost or a replacement motor would be. Do companies typically divulge this info? View attachment 38024View attachment 38025
If you need to ask a lathe company the cost of a new motor, you don’t need to buy that lathe. I have a Oneway that is 25 years old. All original parts, still purrs like a kitten.
 
Joined
May 22, 2017
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Lancaster, PA
Oh, I'm not suggesting what I favor, should be a choice for anyone else. Brent English makes top tier lathes, but doesn't offer a rotating headstock. A rotating headstock is the one single reason why I'd even consider another lathe.

Yes, the light weight of the Record Power Regent is one of the main reasons it isn't in first place for my purposes. I need that weight to help with maintaining acceptable vibration levels in the work I've evolved to. It does look like a very nice machine, though......and, should be an excellent choice for quite a few other turners.


Yep, exactly.......this is the main reason why a lathe like the Axminster, or the Oneway wouldn't even be considered.

-----odie-----
The Robust Scout doesn’t need a rotating headstock because the spindle is threaded outboard same as inboard, and with the bed extension on the outboard side, you can turn 22 inch diameter forward or backwards, with your tool rest wherever you want it. Don’t see any need for rotating headstock... and on a lathe I once owned that had a rotating g headstock, it was a bear to get it back *exactly* in line.
 

hockenbery

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The Robust Scout doesn’t need a rotating headstock because the spindle is threaded outboard same as inboard, and with the bed extension on the outboard side, you can turn 22 inch diameter forward or backwards, with your tool rest wherever you want it. Don’t see any need for rotating headstock... and on a lathe I once owned that had a rotating g headstock, it was a bear to get it back *exactly* in line.
So few people appreciate the efficiency of using an outboard. Does need a bigger footprint but so much easier to move to the left end of the lathe than it is to move and rotate headstocks.
 

odie

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Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
The Robust Scout doesn’t need a rotating headstock because the spindle is threaded outboard same as inboard, and with the bed extension on the outboard side, you can turn 22 inch diameter forward or backwards, with your tool rest wherever you want it. Don’t see any need for rotating headstock... and on a lathe I once owned that had a rotating g headstock, it was a bear to get it back *exactly* in line.

Thanks for your POV, John.......However, everyone has their own opinions on this, and I'd like to have a rotating headstock! :)

I probably won't be purchasing a new lathe anytime soon, and if Brent English decides to manufacture a rotating headstock lathe, I'd be very interested in seeing what he comes up with.

-----odie-----
 
Joined
Feb 26, 2019
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On closer inspection I realized that my upper thrust bearing (the one behind the blade) was a little too close. It's possible that as the blade settled in it started tracking a smidge further back. I eased that off and it solved the problem. It was a small adjustment that made a huge difference. Now the big question is whether I'll remember that the next time my saw does this.

In general, I haven't been too pleased with the stay-put-ability of the blade guides on this saw. I had to use Loctite on all the knurled locking screws, which made them a pain to adjust by hand. At least they're not all working loose on their own anymore...

So few people appreciate the efficiency of using an outboard. Does need a bigger footprint but so much easier to move to the left end of the lathe than it is to move and rotate headstocks.
Footprint is a major issue with many, myself included. IMO its just as easy, and actually easier with moderately large/heavy turnings, to rotate the headstock vs moving/rethreading the chuck/faceplate to outboard. I have yet to find issue with stability or vibration with the rotating HS on the Nova Galaxi and I have maxed out its capacity numerous times with bowls, hf’s, and large spindle turnings. Far too many recall experiences with older rotating HS’s and assume they are all the same. I had the harbor freight rotating HS lathe, so I know what the older, lighter lathes were like.
 
Joined
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A well executed rotating headstock creates options for work positioning that straight outboard turning does not. Now it may also be the case that straight outboard turning offers some advantages over a rotating headstock. It depends entirely on what you turn and how you turn it.

if Brent English decides to manufacture a rotating headstock lathe, I'd be very interested
Ditto!
 
Joined
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I never really considered turning outboard because my lathe was always in the corner. On the earlier versions of outboard turning, I think the threads were in the same direction as the ones on the inboard, which caused some problems with things unwinding. Not sure if they have corrected that or not. Also with the outboard turning, you need an extra bed and banjo set up. Not sure if tail stock support is possible or not. To me, it just 'seems' to be more efficient for a sliding headstock or pivoting one. Well, unless you want to go bigger than the normal capacity of your lathe. I know Dale Larson has a big Oneway. He roughs out on inboard, and finish turns on the outboard.

robo hippy
 
Joined
May 22, 2017
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Yah it's always what one turner likes, another dislikes. What makes it fun. Earlier in this thread there was chat about stainless steel ways, which I like because they don't rust or ding. A fellow in our club rejected a lathe like mine because he has a lot of jigs positioned with on-off magnets. They stick to cast iron, but not to stainless. Big deal to him, never would have occurred to me.
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2021
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Vancouver,WA
One of the features that attracted me to the Laguna 1216 was the outboard feature and ability to increase the swing (marginally, if we're honest) and turn 'at the end of the lathe' in a manner of speaking. I've since decided not to invest in the outboard extension kit and just find a full sized machine. I wish more lathes offered this ability/feature as it's surely easier than sliding the headstock down to the end of the lathe.
 
Joined
Feb 16, 2021
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Parkersburg, West Virginia
The Robust Scout doesn’t need a rotating headstock because the spindle is threaded outboard same as inboard, and with the bed extension on the outboard side, you can turn 22 inch diameter forward or backwards, with your tool rest wherever you want it. Don’t see any need for rotating headstock... and on a lathe I once owned that had a rotating g headstock, it was a bear to get it back *exactly* in line.
It would need it in my shop. I would hate to have to move the lathe every time I want to turn on the back.
 

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Joined
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Does anyone know the maximum height (floor to spindle) of the Powermatic 3520C?

(with the stock 'riser blocks' installed, of course)

I ask because I've read one thing in the specs and placed a call to Powermatic tech services which gave me an even lower number than what I measured in the store or as advertised!

Thanks
 
Joined
May 31, 2019
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Highland, MI
Does anyone know the maximum height (floor to spindle) of the Powermatic 3520C?

(with the stock 'riser blocks' installed, of course)

I ask because I've read one thing in the specs and placed a call to Powermatic tech services which gave me an even lower number than what I measured in the store or as advertised!

Thanks
The spindle axis on mine is at 46.25" to the floor using the riser blocks that came with it and just under 2" of the adjustable feet exposed. It could probably go another 1/2" higher, but it's nicely leveled and I don't need the extra 1/2".
FWIW, I've been totally happy with the 3520C and am glad I bought it.
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2018
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Colorado Springs, CO
My two bits worth: buy what you can afford and still have money left over for tools and wood. I started with a mini-lathe, transitioned to a midi, and finally bought a full-sized lathe. In the process, I've turned hundreds of bottle stoppers, Christmas ornaments, lidded boxes, and small bowls. Now that I have a full-size lathe, I make bottle stoppers, Christmas ornaments, bigger lidded boxes, and bigger bowls.
1618686514436.png
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2021
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The spindle axis on mine is at 46.25" to the floor using the riser blocks that came with it and just under 2" of the adjustable feet exposed. It could probably go another 1/2" higher, but it's nicely leveled and I don't need the extra 1/2".
FWIW, I've been totally happy with the 3520C and am glad I bought it.
Thank you. This is a number I could live with. Certainly not the 43-5/8" number I was given by PM (*facepalm*).
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2010
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Lexington, KY
My two bits worth: buy what you can afford and still have money left over for tools and wood. I started with a mini-lathe, transitioned to a midi, and finally bought a full-sized lathe. In the process, I've turned hundreds of bottle stoppers, Christmas ornaments, lidded boxes, and small bowls. Now that I have a full-size lathe, I make bottle stoppers, Christmas ornaments, bigger lidded boxes, and bigger bowls.
Now that I have a large lathe, I seem to turn smaller things most of the time. My sister happened to come by once when I was turning a 1" x 2" spindle -- on a 25" swing. She commented "Seems a bit disproportionate, doesn't it?"
 
Joined
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  • Spindle height from floor: 40-5/8" (without 4" riser blocks)
(Specs on PM3520C from Craftsupplies)

I'd be curious, Reed, about the 4x4 setup. I have the option to buy a floor model PM3520C (which they would not discount at least via phone call), or perhaps they said they may have another PM new in the box.

The height situation is a hesitation right now. That vs a long lead time on a Laguna 2436, is something I hope to have solved Monday when the 'buyer' at/for the store gets back to me.

I may just have to be patient and hope for a June delivery. The advantage being no shipping or tax because I can pick up a machine directly instead of drop ship from manufacturer for either one.
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2017
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Roscoe, Illinois
The height of the 3520C is 40 5/8 without th risers and the feet adjusted for greater height. With the risers installed and the adjustable feet adjusted all the way out, the result would be a height from floor to the spindle center of 46 5/8"; possibly more if the feet could be adjusted out a small amount more - maybe up to another 1/2". That is the stated possible maximum height by Powermatic in support calls and I believe in the manual - 40 5/8" + 4" + 2" (possible slightly more) = 46 5/8".
 
Joined
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UPDATE:

And the winner is...
Screenshot_20210419-154107.jpg
20210419_154345.jpg
I've ordered the Laguna 2436 and 3" riser block kit and the ETA is reasonable. I spoke with a number of people who own the machine, have had good experience with my Laguna 1216, and like the price, height, and 24" swing as well as the 3hp motor. Looks great too. Can't wait for it to arrive!

If anyone with one and knows the 220v plug & outlets required please let me know. Have to do the electrical next.

Thanks for all the feedback to help with my decision. Definitely the most expensive power tool I've ever purchased. *butterflies*
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2017
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UPDATE:

And the winner is...
View attachment 38286
View attachment 38287
I've ordered the Laguna 2436 and 3" riser block kit and the ETA is reasonable. I spoke with a number of people who own the machine, have had good experience with my Laguna 1216, and like the price, height, and 24" swing as well as the 3hp motor. Looks great too. Can't wait for it to arrive!

If anyone with one and knows the 220v plug & outlets required please let me know. Have to do the electrical next.

Thanks for all the feedback to help with my decision. Definitely the most expensive power tool I've ever purchased. *butterflies*
Allen, Usually the best place to get the recommended circuit amps, required cord size (if there isn't already one included with the lathe), and a plug to match would be the User Manual. Since you don't have the lathe, I would guess you could download it from the Laguna website.
 
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I have a copy of the manual. One weird thing I noticed is the recommended circuit breaker is 15A. Yet, the PM3520C recommended a 20A circuit despite a smaller, 2HP motor. Weird. I'm going to add a 20A circuit most likely because I'll need to add a larger bandsaw at some point. I don't see any reason to go w/ 15A.
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2017
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What Rusty said . . . I wired my workshop with all 20 amp circuits; both 120V and 220V. You can never go wrong with that plan. It's a little unclear why Powermatic requires a 20amp 220V circuit since it appears from the 3520C specs, the draw would be handled by a 15amp circuit. Plus, the pigtail Powermatic includes for wiring into the motor is 14 gauge cord. For wiring my 20amp circuits I needed to use 12 gauge wiring. So, wiring a 20amp circuit will cover you for any other tools you are likely to acquire in the future (when you recover from the cost of this one).
 
Joined
May 4, 2010
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Bozeman, MT
UPDATE:

And the winner is...
View attachment 38286
View attachment 38287
I've ordered the Laguna 2436 and 3" riser block kit and the ETA is reasonable. I spoke with a number of people who own the machine, have had good experience with my Laguna 1216, and like the price, height, and 24" swing as well as the 3hp motor. Looks great too. Can't wait for it to arrive!

If anyone with one and knows the 220v plug & outlets required please let me know. Have to do the electrical next.

Thanks for all the feedback to help with my decision. Definitely the most expensive power tool I've ever purchased. *butterflies*
Actually, per Laguna, the riser block is 3 feet. That should be tall enough for anyone.:oops:
 
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
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Windermere, British Columbia
Does anyone know the maximum height (floor to spindle) of the Powermatic 3520C?

(with the stock 'riser blocks' installed, of course)

I ask because I've read one thing in the specs and placed a call to Powermatic tech services which gave me an even lower number than what I measured in the store or as advertised!

Thanks
I think the physical measurement you took in the store has already answered the question you are asking. Does it not?
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2021
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A few notes on my process in case it helps others in a similar boat:

~I really liked the Grizzly G0800 but they don't make it anymore.
~If I had a bigger budget I'd consider the big 3 of Robust, Vicmarc, and Oneway - probably in that order.
~I closely looked at the Harvey T60s and never did get any responses from their customer service to my questions. The price also keeps going up and I wasn't sure about the servo motor or replacement parts. In my top 3, though.
~The PM3520C was a close second choice. I felt like the Banjo and tailstock were a bit clunky and heavy (for me) but the spindle lock and control box - pretty much everything else I really liked. The price was about $700 more, and the accessories also more expensive than the Laguna.
~I really like the Vicmarc VL300 and similar models. Slick machines. Maybe a small learning curve with the metric tool posts, etc, same for the Oneway but some can be custom ordered with Imperial tooling to a point.
~I was very tempted by the Record Power Coronet Regent. Rotating headstock! But, low speed of 250rpms and the relative light weight build (375lbs IIRC) were turn-offs. Also no definitive word on when available again in the US.
~I like the look and feel of the Lagunas, feel they may not be as reliable as the PM, but talked to enough people who own them to feel comfortable.
~Being able to have it shipped to a local store supports a local business and saved me about $450!
~Despite the backorder into nearly June for the 2436 from most place I looked, my local Woodcrafters said about 10 days. We'll see.
~A huge factor was the height I can get with the 3" riser blocks. I have back issues and this was very important.
~Available accessories can come later such as the bed extension and swing-away tailstock.
 
Joined
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I was out of town for 2 days on the Oregon Coast. Very nice trip..... Anyway, my 4 by 4 set up, I took 2 of them, drilled about a 1 1/2 inch hole, maybe 1/2 inch deep, and set the feet into them. I didn't have to use wedges to make sure the feet sat flat as they seemed to do all by themselves. I did the standard leveling of the 4 feet, then I nailed a 2 by 4 cleat across the wall where the lathe sat, and ran kickers down to the 4 by 4 so they would stay in place. Very stable.

robo hippy
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2021
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Burbank. WA
Awesome Allen. I have been following your posts as I'm in the same boat sort of. I have looked at all the same lathes with about the same thoughts except have not considered Grizzly. The bummer is availability which I have heard is only going to get worse.
I'm leaning towards the PM 3520C and almost pulled the trigger when they had 10% off. I also like the Vicmarc VL300 but I think I had a shipping quote of $500. Anyway congrats.
 
Joined
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I'm leaning towards the PM 3520C and almost pulled the trigger when they had 10% off. I also like the Vicmarc VL300 but I think I had a shipping quote of $500. Anyway congrats.
I don't know where Burbank is, but JPW, Inc has a scratch and dent facility in Auburn and occasionally they have a Powermatic lathe for sale. It's a Buyer Beware deal, so you have to check carefully to know the tool is sound, but bargains can be had. https://www.equipmentsalesandsurplus.com/
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2017
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I just got my PM3520C, so I haven't used it a lot. The sliding head was a new experience for me, but I like it so far. The capability to move the head to the tailstock end for bowl and hollow vessel hollowing is very nice. Plus, the 3520 has 20" capacity for bowls and I doubt I'd really go beyond that much or ever. And, if I do, there is the option to get more capacity. with the add-on to the bed.

I always thought that a swivel head was the answer, but I'm sold on the sliding head so far. It probably does come down to personal preference.
 
Joined
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I always thought that a swivel head was the answer, but I'm sold on the sliding head so far. It probably does come down to personal preference.

A swivel head head is ergonomically more efficient/less effort, since the TS does not have to be removed and reinstalled (unless one has the swing away), and the HS does not need to be pushed down the ways (not a big deal).

Desired swing size has everything to do with it. I believe the Vic 240, at 19”, is the largest swing swivel head, with the Nova Orion at 18”. For larger lathes there is no choice so no preference.

A clear advantage of the swivel head, for same size lathes, is being able to swing large work out of the way and slide the banjo to the HS. With non-swivel the work must be removed.
 
Last edited:
Joined
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Never thought of it like that Doug. When I had the 3520A, I never used the tailstock. When I got my AB, I used it for roughing, but pivoted it out of the way for finish cuts. That pivot set up is really sweet. With the Vic, I don't need the tailstock for support. I guess if I was going as big as the Vic would turn, I would probably rough out on the long bed set up, then switch to pivot for finish cuts. It is more useful/necessary on the AB.

robo hippy
 
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