Don't know what will work best for you, but I grind such NRS with the same bevel on both sides (30-deg for 60-deg included angle).
I don't like the curve on the end for what I do but often use a short flat. (I do have one ground with a rounded end like you show but rarely use it.)
Note that the curve on the side of the tip is a bit longer than the one you show. To get that extra curve I have to continue the bevel grind much further down the edge of the scraper blank.
I also make NRS angled or curved grinds on the tang (Thompson steel) - I never use these tools in a handle.
Making the bevels on both sides (like a skew) let me decide which side will be up.
These work extremely well inside and outside of bowls, boxes, platters, etc.
But I think the most important thing that makes a scraper work well is the burr. I had to do some experimenting at first with the type of burnisher, the angle, and the pressure. I use only the Arno burnishers now - they have several distinct advantages. When the burr starts to lose effectiveness I use an extra-fine Eze-Lap diamond hone to refresh the edge then add a new burr. This works for maybe 4-5 times before I go back to the grinder.
If everything is right I get "whisper" shavings from the wood.
This scraper grind even works well for boxes with "egg-shaped" interiors like this:
I should mention that along with these I often use small and large curved hand scrapers.
JKJ
