Bowl finishes

[Macon Monroe]

On my bowls I use Howard's butcher block finish. After a couple coats, I use bees wax.

Is what I'm doing okay? Any other suggestions?

Sorry if my questions are beginner.

 

[Lamar Wright]

Hello Macon and welcome to the AAW. The bowl on your Avatar looks really nice. I see nothing wrong at all using Howard's finish and bees wax as a polish. I've used Howard's finishing products with good results.

On my bowls I use 2 coats of Watco Danish oil and after the bowl has dried, polish using the Beall three part buffing system. I like the finish these products give me.

I guess it boils down to what type of finish that you are satisfied with.

Happy turning!

 

[Macon Monroe]

Hello Macon and welcome to the AAW. The bowl on your Avatar looks really nice. I see nothing wrong at all using Howard's finish and bees wax as a polish. I've used Howard's finishing products with good results.

On my bowls I use 2 coats of Watco Danish oil and after the bowl has dried, polish using the Beall three part buffing system. I like the finish these products give me.

I guess it boils down to what type of finish that you are satisfied with.

Happy turning!

Thank you. That bowl is curly maple.

I've used Danish oil before. After it's dried, can I put bees wax on it and it be food safe?

 

[Eric Cothern]

My understanding is that danish oil is food safe once it dries. I use my bowls to hold fruit but I let them dry a good couple weeks before they touch food.

 

[Bobby Smith]

Looks like what you're doing works great Macon.

 

[Macon Monroe]

Looks like what you're doing works great Macon.

Thank you

 

[hockenbery]

On my bowls I use Howard's butcher block finish. After a couple coats, I use bees wax.

Is what I'm doing okay? Any other suggestions?
r.

If you like the finish stick with it.
Pretty much any fish that works with wood will work with woodturnings.

I mostly use Waterlox because I find it easy to use, durable, and minimal color change in light woods like maple.
I also use the Beal buff

 

[Macon Monroe]

I will look into waterlox

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Watco is my go to finish also . Shellac works well on small items or things which will not get much handling. I like lacquer for the speed and putting garnet shellac on under the lacquer on cherry will even out the colors if you want an even look.

As you can see there are many finishes and preferences. Time and patience will yield good results in particular with a finish like tung oil.

Try a search in this forum and you will find many finishes talked about . You will have to be the one to decide on what is "best".

 

[Macon Monroe]

Thank you for all this information.

 

[hockenbery]

I will look into waterlox

One caution about Waterlox is that it likes to gel once opened.

my solution is to pour the newly opened can into 2 plastics water bottles.
Every time I use some I put the cap on loosely and squeeze the bottle until some runs out under the cap at which time I close the cap? I have kept Waterlox working over a year using this method. Not sure how long it would last since I used it all.

when the bottles get toward empty the bottom sort of folds up so you can reduce the interior volume to almost nothing.

 

[Dale Brugger]

I use "spoon butter". It's a blend of bees wax and mineral oil. Food safe and looks great. I made my own. I also use it on cutting boards, knife handles and of course wooden spoons.

 

[Bobby Smith]

I like using Wood Turners Finish!

 

[Lamar Wright]

I've used Danish oil before. After it's dried, can I put bees wax on it and it be food s

Yes you can, just make sure the Danish oil is completely dry before you polish with bees wax.

 

[Fred Belknap]

Like has been said just about any finish will work. I have tried several and now pretty much stick to WOP "Wipe on Poleuthrene". It is easy to apply and gives a durable finish. It's available locally which helps, as I kind of live in the boonies
.

 

[Macon Monroe]

Yes you can, just make sure the Danish oil is completely dry before you polish with bees wax.

Ok thank you.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Bowl finish depends on the use/application. If utensils will be used in it dont use a film forming finish - danish oil, poly, shellac, lacquer - it just gets scratched up. Mineral oil or Mahoneys walnut oil are good choices.

For a bowl that will just hold food like fruit, the above or any of the film finishes work. They are food safe once cured, usually 30 days or so for film finishes. My favorite is solvent poly thinned 1:1 and usually a little dye added, applied like danish oil, flood for 10 min, wipe off, 2-3 coats, wet sand after 1st, buff with compounds and wheels like the beal system. Cheap and readily available.

For a fully filled gallery type finish I like solvent lacquer sprayed then rubbed out to a mirror finish. Also food safe.

Waterbased finishes work well except they do not have chatoyance and look flat.