What is the prefered material for the best buffing of projects?
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Buffing wheels
- Thread starter Ed Jarvis
- Start date
Many, including me, use the Beall buffing wheels. There are three wheels, two for polishing compounds, one for wax.
When I bought mine long ago the package included one threaded 2MT arbor to swap between wheels. I purchased to extra arbors to make it quicker and easy to change.
Later, they offered a long shaft you mount on the lathe between head and tailstock and holds all three wheels. I personally don't like this since it limits access to the wheels in certain situations. And it takes more storage space!
Buffing balls are also available to polish the insides of smaller bowls and such.
JKJ
When I bought mine long ago the package included one threaded 2MT arbor to swap between wheels. I purchased to extra arbors to make it quicker and easy to change.
Later, they offered a long shaft you mount on the lathe between head and tailstock and holds all three wheels. I personally don't like this since it limits access to the wheels in certain situations. And it takes more storage space!
Buffing balls are also available to polish the insides of smaller bowls and such.
JKJ
Beall buffing wheels work well for me. I’m sure there are plenty of imitations but oftentimes you pay not knowing what you will be getting; quality wise .
Dave Landers
Beta Tester
The Beall wheel material is (according to product descriptions): linen for tripoli, linen/flannel for white diamond, and flannel for wax. They are not stitched (so fairly floppy).
The Beall system works well for me. I don't have a dedicated motor for buffing, but do it on the lathe with a Hold Fast Buffing Extender, which gets the wheels away from the headstock. I made arbors from bolts, fender washers, and spacers turned from hardwood scraps.
I have one of the 3-wheel shafts that @John K Jordan mentioned - don't like it, it's in a bin somewhere.
The Beall system works well for me. I don't have a dedicated motor for buffing, but do it on the lathe with a Hold Fast Buffing Extender, which gets the wheels away from the headstock. I made arbors from bolts, fender washers, and spacers turned from hardwood scraps.
I have one of the 3-wheel shafts that @John K Jordan mentioned - don't like it, it's in a bin somewhere.
Fan of the Beal system also.
Another fan of the Beall system. I have the three wheel setup as well as individual wheels with the 2MT
I use the individual wheels more than the three wheel as I think the buffing pads are to close to one another for most of my bowls
I use the individual wheels more than the three wheel as I think the buffing pads are to close to one another for most of my bowls
Another Beall user here 
I use all three compounds (BT, WD, and carnunba wax) for utilitarian bowls that I finish with TT DO.
When I do my high gloss shellac finishes (typically for display pieces), I’ll still use BT and WD, but stay between 1000 - 1200 rpm and finish with an empty flannel wheel to remove any left over compound. IMO this method leaves behind a much better hand feel (I don’t like the feel of carnuba or that finger prints sometimes get left behind).
I use all three compounds (BT, WD, and carnunba wax) for utilitarian bowls that I finish with TT DO.
When I do my high gloss shellac finishes (typically for display pieces), I’ll still use BT and WD, but stay between 1000 - 1200 rpm and finish with an empty flannel wheel to remove any left over compound. IMO this method leaves behind a much better hand feel (I don’t like the feel of carnuba or that finger prints sometimes get left behind).
I have the Beall buffs, and I also have a three wheel buff that I use for pens and other small items. There is an old thread on IAP that recommends canton flannel buffs. On the three wheel, I use canton flannel buffs for the white diamond and the wax, but I use a slightly harder, sewn wheel for the tripoli. I I found the canton flannel buffs on Amazon.
Odie is the Beall pro. Ask him also.
I want to thank you all for digging a point home for me on this topic. I planned on getting a buffing system to use with my work. I wondered about the limitation a the wheel bar would be mounted to a lathe. I will be looking at getting individual arbors and wheels when I pull the trigger. I've read good things about the Beall system as well as Caswell buffing wheels. Regardless of the wheels I buy I plan on utilizing the three step process used with the Beall system.
Gregory
Gregory
Over here in the UK there are two “buffing systems” aimed specifically at wood turners. The Beal is one of them. These “systems are two or three times more expensive than purchasing the same items from a specialist polishing supplier. Any good supplier will tell you which mops to use for each compound. I don’t recommend buying kits as such but this UK supplier offers this. It gives you an idea of the compounds and mops required.
www.thepolishingshop.co.uk
“This three stage polishing kit has been put together with the help of the North West Stick Makers & Crafts Club.
Stage 1- 150mm x 25mm B quality loose mop with 600g of Menzerna 113NG brown compound.
Stage 2- 150mm x 25mm G quality loose mop with 600g Menzerna Glosswax 16 beige compound.
Stage 3- 150mm x 25mm WDR quality loose mop with 600g of Menzerna P175 yellow compound.”
You don’t need anything special to use the mops, just a suitable size Pigtail for your chuck. This is one of mine mounted in my Nova chuck. I’ve extended the Pigtail but for many jobs you probably don’t need to. The mops just twist on and off, no need for tools. If you’ve not used mops before I’d try the 6” x 1” ones first.
Menzerna Horn and Wood Kit for a bench grinder | The Polishing Shop
Menzerna Horn and Wood Kit for a bench grinder, This three stage polishing kit has been put together with the help of the North West Stick Makers & Crafts Club.Stage 1- 150mm x 25mm B quality loose mop with
www.thepolishingshop.co.uk
“This three stage polishing kit has been put together with the help of the North West Stick Makers & Crafts Club.
Stage 1- 150mm x 25mm B quality loose mop with 600g of Menzerna 113NG brown compound.
Stage 2- 150mm x 25mm G quality loose mop with 600g Menzerna Glosswax 16 beige compound.
Stage 3- 150mm x 25mm WDR quality loose mop with 600g of Menzerna P175 yellow compound.”
You don’t need anything special to use the mops, just a suitable size Pigtail for your chuck. This is one of mine mounted in my Nova chuck. I’ve extended the Pigtail but for many jobs you probably don’t need to. The mops just twist on and off, no need for tools. If you’ve not used mops before I’d try the 6” x 1” ones first.