Is there a way to fill a narrow crack with CA without getting so much on the adjacent wood? I'm applying directly from the tube and end up with a 1/4" wide path of CA which causes the fiish to be darker if not all removed.
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CA application
- Thread starter Jake Truxal
- Start date
Jake, I spray a light coat of shellac, (zinsser rattlecan) this seals the wood but not the crack, so capillary action pulls in the CA. Shallac sands, or turnes off easily, and dries quickly, don't forget to seal the inside.
cc
cc
thanks Cliff
Smaller tubes are available. E.g. "The original super glue" in blister packs of 4 tubes, has about 1mm outlet, also more delicate control than bottles. Better shelf life, because only one tube is opened at a time. $$$, but less waste.
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You can also spray the hardener on the dry wood and let it look dry before putting CA in the crack. That way it flashes on the surface without penetrating too far, but still wicks in well.
I fill (inspect, and re- fill ) early and sand late, which is safer all the way around. Much better to hold two pieces in register with glue while working them with steel. Tend not to fly apart.
I fill (inspect, and re- fill ) early and sand late, which is safer all the way around. Much better to hold two pieces in register with glue while working them with steel. Tend not to fly apart.
A better final surface this way, too. The final cut/sand intersects the patch, with a clean boundary.
I use the Starbond brand of CA glue. Each bottle comes with several long, thin nozzles that are pushed onto the tip of the bottle. These nozzles allow you to apply a very thin bead of glue to cracks and other areas without having a lot of glue running all over the piece. If you spritz the area with accelerator before applying the CA with the thin nozzle, it usually hardens the CA very quickly.
Tim Carter
Tim Carter