is there instances where titebond is preferred to CA glue??
are there turners who use titebond instead of CA on a regular basis??
are there turners who use titebond instead of CA on a regular basis??
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CA verses titebond
- Thread starter Charlie Knighton
- Start date
segmenters use pva
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Depends on what you are using it for. I prefer titebond any time I need to glue two parts together permanently. I use CA only for temporary bonds or filling small defects or hardening punky wood. Anytime I need a permanent bond I use either titebond or epoxy.
I also use epoxy for filling any holes or defects larger than bug holes.
I used to use CA to put the handles on my mirrors. After several years I noticed several were coming loose. This tends to be side grain vs endgrain joint so the wood movement is what's causing it I believe. It's like a dowel joint. I started using epoxy and haven't had any more problems.
I also use epoxy for filling any holes or defects larger than bug holes.
I used to use CA to put the handles on my mirrors. After several years I noticed several were coming loose. This tends to be side grain vs endgrain joint so the wood movement is what's causing it I believe. It's like a dowel joint. I started using epoxy and haven't had any more problems.
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I use CA mainly for filling. If I were to do any segmented turning, then one of the PVA glues is what I would use.
What he said
R
Ron Sardo
Guest
I use yellow glue for segmented turnings
If I want to use a glue block and I want to turn it NOW I use CA, if I can wait until tomorrow, I'll use yellow glue.
For pens I use CA
For mixed media (metal and wood) I use epoxy.
Anything else would depend on what mood I'm in.
If I want to use a glue block and I want to turn it NOW I use CA, if I can wait until tomorrow, I'll use yellow glue.
For pens I use CA
For mixed media (metal and wood) I use epoxy.
Anything else would depend on what mood I'm in.
I've found CA to be just as permanent as any other glue and don't use anything else for most turnings. Then again, I haven't done any segmented stuff and don't turn pens. CA has worked with several large pieces with wind splits up to 1/16" thick at points. Sometimes get too much on my fingers, but it all comes off within 24 hours.
I use waterproof Tightbond for gluing up hat blocks before turning. They end up getting a lot of steam applied to the hats put on them once they get out into the real world.
The only other glue I use is Gorilla Glue for fixing the splits that develop in the rubber part of 2" and 3" power sanding disk arbor/pads. A little moisture and some of that stuff will make the thing have another life or two.
I use waterproof Tightbond for gluing up hat blocks before turning. They end up getting a lot of steam applied to the hats put on them once they get out into the real world.
The only other glue I use is Gorilla Glue for fixing the splits that develop in the rubber part of 2" and 3" power sanding disk arbor/pads. A little moisture and some of that stuff will make the thing have another life or two.