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Chainsaw maintenance- do you do this?

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I was recently paging through the manual for my 7year old Husqvarna 455 saw and came across these two recommended maintenance items. I’ve never done them, and when I was schooled in chainsaw use (granted it was 50 years ago) they were never mentioned. I wonder how many folks do these lubrication items?IMG_4852.jpeg
 
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I wonder how many folks do these lubrication items?
Been debate on that since I first worked on them in the early 1980's - Pro loggers and dealers say not to do that, grease just attracts more dirt build up, the chain oiling system, if it works properly can serve to keep things lubricated well enough. However, those guys run their saws all day every day, so the bearings never really run dry and the sprockets (and bar tips) wear out long before the bearings do, usually. For Homeowners that don't regularly use their saws, the bearings CAN go dry after sitting for too long, so they DO need to get lubrication every so often. On the other hand, in my own experience with homeowner units, the saw is gonna have other issues requiring service/repair by the time the bearings reach failure point, and usually they'll get some lubrication before they leave the shop. I have replaced a few rusted-up sprocket bearings but usually the bar itself is already beat up and burned up from running dull chains, or cutting into the dirt, and so on, before the bar tip fails anyways... However for those who actually take good care of their saws and otherwise keep up on maintenance, this is absolutely a necessary step to do every so often. (and most will do that anyway with the grease gun provided in the "premium" kits, though I have sold a few of those grease guns for the purpose, they were never a top selling item...)
 
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I have a Husqvarna 455 saw and the last Husqvarna replacement bar I purchased did not have provision for greasing the roller bearings on the nose of the bar. The same situation exists with Oregon brand replacement bars. Maybe once or twice a year I will try to lubricate the drive sprocket bushing.
 
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There is a lot involved with maintaining a bar. I use a stationary disc sander to grind the wear out of the edges of the bar, a dental pic to remove all the crap in the groove of the bar so oil can flow around it better, and certainly lube the sprocket at the nose of the bar. You must do all those if you don't want to wear out the bar prematurely.
 
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Thanks all for clarifying. I periodically invert the bar to even wear, but will file also. Will a standard (automotive) grease gun work on the Husqvarna bar or is there a special fitting required to get into the lube hole?
 
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Lowe's sells a small grease gun full of grease for that purpose. Works good. Might be under the Husqvarna brand in with the chainsaws.
 
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Thanks all for clarifying. I periodically invert the bar to even wear, but will file also. Will a standard (automotive) grease gun work on the Husqvarna bar or is there a special fitting required to get into the lube hole?
There is no fitting, it's just a hole. So you need a tapered nozzle on the grease gun to seal into the hole.
 
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I have a Stihl and a Husqvarna. Since the Stihl doesn't have the grease hole, that makes cleaning the groove in the bar critical. The only lube that gets is from the chain lube pump
 
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Ram 4x4 trucks have a stupid (almost hidden) grease point that requires that type of gun, so I have one around. I check that the sprocket moves freely when I swap chains. If it doesn't, I blow it all out and shoot in some grease. I've never had one go bad, it's wear of the bar that necessitates its replacement.
 
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I grease the bar tip but was not aware of a needle bearing in the clutch drum that needs attention. Any chance the instructions on that could be uploaded?
Some chainsaws, if you clean 'em out with a dental pick, have a grease hole in the end of the crankshaft (when the clutch drum is inboard) so the bearing can be greased without removing the clutch. Others (many Stihls for example) have a simple e-clip that retains the clutch drum (outboard clutch drum, inboard clutch) you just remove clip (careful - they like to go flying if you pry em off without making sure you are ready to catch 'em) and then slide off clutch drum and sprocket, grease bearing and reassemble.

The inboard clutch drum saws that do not have a grease hole drilled in the crankshaft, requires removal of the clutch to pull drum off to get to bearing.
 
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I grease the bar tip but was not aware of a needle bearing in the clutch drum that needs attention. Any chance the instructions on that could be uploaded?
IMG_4953.jpegSure Matt, here’s the page from the manual that covers it. Not a lot of detail. Starts on the bottom left and continues top right.
 
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Thanks Lou! Im typically a manual reader but must have been in a hurry to fire up my 455 and get cutting, the clutch must still work because bar oil is getting in there?
Didn’t know there was an oil pump adjustment either, I’ll have to check that now.
 
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Thanks Lou! Im typically a manual reader but must have been in a hurry to fire up my 455 and get cutting, the clutch must still work because bar oil is getting in there?
Didn’t know there was an oil pump adjustment either, I’ll have to check that now.
I’ve got to admit I also breezed past that section. I replaced my 18” bar for a 20” bar a couple of years ago. While I’ve experienced no problems, I should make the oil pump adjustment. Thanks for making note of the Matt!
 
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