Chainsaw problem

[John Torchick]

OK, got everything set up and Murphy's Law rides again. For some reason the saw starts square and drifts to the left half way through the cut. It's a HF 12V Portland saw. Frustrating to cut a log for turning for cross grain or end grain. Ideas and/or suggestions?

 

[Wyatt Holm]

The problem is usually a worn bar or the chain was sharpened uneven. You could try turning the bar upside down.

 

[John Torchick]

Wyatt, it's new. This is the third time being used.

 

[robo hippy]

I had that problem with an old saw where the grooves for the bottom of the chain were worn. They "fixed" it, but that lasted a day or two. Since yours is brand new, I would guess the chain is not properly sharpened with one side being off more than the other. I know HF has made efforts to improve the quality of their tools, but maybe take it back, and/or get a new chain.

robo hippy

 

[Tom Rice]

Wyatt, it's new. This is the third time being used.

Chain issue, most likely a couple teeth got dinged, the small saws are a PITA with that because theres way less teeth, found that out the hard way, my husky 395xp with 48” bar will go like hell even with a few bad teeth, my little milwaukee limbing saw wont cut for sheeit with just one tooth dinged.

 

[John Torchick]

Dinged...used three times? First two times didn't even get through as the log kept rolling.

 

[John Torchick]

I had that problem with an old saw where the grooves for the bottom of the chain were worn. They "fixed" it, but that lasted a day or two. Since yours is brand new, I would guess the chain is not properly sharpened with one side being off more than the other. I know HF has made efforts to improve the quality of their tools, but maybe take it back, and/or get a new chain.

robo hippy

It's going to the Habitat store. Looking for another saw. My son has a Poulan saw that I gave him but hard to keep shuffling it back and forth.

 

[David Shumaker]

OK, got everything set up and Murphy's Law rides again. For some reason the saw starts square and drifts to the left half way through the cut. It's a HF 12V Portland saw. Frustrating to cut a log for turning for cross grain or end grain. Ideas and/or suggestions?

My friend had a Harbor Freight saw that gave him problems. He replaced the bar and chain with one from a reputable manufacturer. All of his problems resolved. Maybe give that a try before getting rid of it.

 

[John Torchick]

David, that would cost more than the saw. Got my eye on a possibility: Kobalt 48V, 12 inch chainsaw; good reviews. Have two batteries and charger for a lawnmower; wife lives it as its lightweight.

 

[John Torchick]

David, holding off and looking at the chain, might need sharpening.

 

[John K Jordan]

Chainsaws. One o my favorite subjects!

I've stuck with Stihl for years, several gasoline a corded electric I often used in the shop.
But recently acquired a 14" Milwaukee that uses the M18 batteries. It's amazing. Usually keep it on the floor in the excavator.

After sharpening by hand with a file for years I now use an electric chain sharpener from Northern Tool in the shop when possible - very quick for a SHARP chain.

Every time I sharpen a chain I flip the bar for even wear. As recommended in the manuals.
I set chain tension, run a few seconds, turn off the saw and check the tension again. Sometimes it loosens a bit.

Don't forget to test the oil pump before sawing. From a Stihl manual.


JKJ

 

[Dan Wiggin]

Usually a loose chain or dull chain will do that to me!

 

[Tom Rice]

Chainsaws. One o my favorite subjects!

I've stuck with Stihl for years, several gasoline a corded electric I often used in the shop.
But recently acquired a 14" Milwaukee that uses the M18 batteries. It's amazing. Usually keep it on the floor in the excavator.

After sharpening by hand with a file for years I now use an electric chain sharpener from Northern Tool in the shop when possible - very quick for a SHARP chain.

Every time I sharpen a chain I flip the bar for even wear. As recommended in the manuals.
I set chain tension, run a few seconds, turn off the saw and check the tension again. Sometimes it loosens a bit.

Don't forget to test the oil pump before sawing. From a Stihl manual.

View attachment 87910
JKJ

Stihl
Pffttt”””

They wish they were as good as a Husky,,,

Just kidding bud,
used to go round and round with a tree trimmer bud of mine over what saw was better,

Have always gone with Husky, mostly because when i needed a big saw to run my slabbing bar thats all they had in stock so went with a 3120
That baby could rip,
Still have it but need to swap the carb, durned ethanol gasoline, when it first came out thats all we could get over here.

Gotta tell ya, that husky was a step up from my old McCoullach 1010 i ran when i got my first sawmill, thought i was in heaven with that big saw with a 48” Windsor bar on it and full skip square cut chain dropping big eucalyptus trees, fun times. Gave the old saw away soon after and got a 372xp, put a 32” bar on it, ran super fast and was a worker, recently found a knockoff on Ebay of the 372, look exactly like it and all the parts swap, but was 1/4 the price of a powerhhead from Baileys, damn good little saw, was pleasantly surprised, been running it long enough i need to lean it out a little so it hits higher revs, already ran it with a 37” slabber cutting a bunch of mango for a friend.

 

[Tom Rice]

Dinged...used three times? First two times didn't even get through as the log kept rolling.

It happens, all it takes on those little chains is one little rock embedded in some bark and its toast, can happen on the first cut

 

[John K Jordan]

It happens, all it takes on those little chains is one little rock embedded in some bark and its toast, can happen on the first cut

When chainsawing near the barn I've taken to pressure washing the bark first. Then chainsaw while off the ground.



In the shop I use a wire brush on the bark before bandsawing (little stones are bad for bandsaw blades too).

If the bark is is really bad, I remove it, with an axe if I have to. They always do that at the big bandsaw mills but with a machine. Worth a visit for those who haven't. Fortunately there is one not far from us.

Small bandsawmills sometimes use a carbide cutter to remove a groove of bark just in front of the blade. I don't have that so I try to keep the logs out of the dirt.

JKJ