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changing a 3520A tailstock quill to a 3520C

john lucas

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When I was at the AAW symposium in Louisville I was talking to James Green of Powermatic and told him that I had measured the parts from my friends 3520C and though they would fit my A. He called one of the engineers and had them check and they said that they thought it would work. He volunteered to send me the parts if I would do the conversion and write up an article on it if it worked. Why would I want to do that you ask. Well the 3520C has an Acme thread that is 6tpi. It is a beefier square thread so it's much stronger. Since it's 6 instead of roughly 16 advancing the quill is much faster. The job only took me about an hour. If you have patience the slot for the quill pin is easy to cut with a Dremel and small straight cutter. I did have to drill and top a hole for the screw that holds the quill pin. If I can figure out how to put a PDF file on here I will post it. I obviously don't have any info on cost and it may or may not be prohibitive to do this but man what difference it makes when using the tailstock.
 

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  • 3520C Quill Replacement.pdf
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RichColvin

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I am wondering the same thing about the 3520b.
 
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The original 16 tpi screw is kinda nice for boring. Each turn is 1/16", so you can keep track of how far you've drilled, and it's hard to drill too fast, even with a 1" forstner bit.

However, boring is only an occasional activity for me, and turning the quill out and back in, is a very, very common one, where more speed would be a good time saver. Hmmm.
 

john lucas

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Dave. I once saw a turner who sold 2 ft diameter spheres. His lathe was a truck rear end using the axle as the spindle. He had a lawn mower transmission for speed and I think ha a 5 horse motor attached to that. He used sharpened lawn mower blades to turn the outside.
 
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When I was at the AAW symposium in Louisville I was talking to James Green of Powermatic and told him that I had measured the parts from my friends 3520C and though they would fit my A. He called one of the engineers and had them check and they said that they thought it would work. He volunteered to send me the parts if I would do the conversion and write up an article on it if it worked. Why would I want to do that you ask. Well the 3520C has an Acme thread that is 6tpi. It is a beefier square thread so it's much stronger. Since it's 6 instead of roughly 16 advancing the quill is much faster. The job only took me about an hour. If you have patience the slot for the quill pin is easy to cut with a Dremel and small straight cutter. I did have to drill and top a hole for the screw that holds the quill pin. If I can figure out how to put a PDF file on here I will post it. I obviously don't have any info on cost and it may or may not be prohibitive to do this but man what difference it makes when using the tailstock.
Quill and lead screw (both are needed) together cost about $250. The lead screw is about 1/2, quill the other 2/3. Just bought a set, and they do fit in all versions of the 3520. Quill is 1-3/8 OD, that's the critical measurement. BUT even with Acme threads (a left-handed metric Acme per the manual) excess cranking on the hand-wheel can cause distortion of the threads. Powermatic may need to start hardening these parts.
 
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@john lucas i stripped the threads on the lead screw of my 3520, and luckily a friend of mine had a 3520a and his quill, lead screw fit my tailstock. i was hoping that meant that your article would mean that the 3520c quill/lead screw would fit my 3520, but the lead screw won't come through the back of the tailstock.

i see a bushing of some kind in the tailstock that holds the lead screw in place, did you have to take that out? if so, how?
 

john lucas

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The 3520c fits the 3520 perfectly. In my photos there is a small bushing I added to keep the quill from locking up when you crank it all the way back in.
 
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hello John,

i bought the 3520c quill and lead screw, but they definitely do not fit my 3520. The lead screw is 3/4" and the hole in the back of the tailstock is 1/2". I'll add some picture below to show the difference. For what it's worth, the 3520A that my friend had is setup the same way as my 3520..

is it possible that the brass bushing in the tailstock can be removed? it looks like the original hole might be the right size for the 3520c lead screw.

thanks,
Saleem.

20240303_170940.jpg20240303_171022.jpg20240303_171041.jpg
 

john lucas

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I'm sure it can be removed. Not sure how because ice never seen one. Worse case scenario have a machinist bore it out.
 

john lucas

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They made several modifications of the 3520 when they made the 3520A. The tool.post lock is different and several other things that I can't remember.
 
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