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Coring systems

Tymur, I have not seen those particular carbide cutters. If I was to use them, I would go with the cutters from Mike Hunter. He is a member of the AAW and a commenter here, and people do speak highly of his products. None better. However, I do not use carbide tools. Just can't see buying some thing that will wear out and then you throw it away. I do use the Big Ugly tool which has a tantung cutting surface. It is good for about half a day's turning and then touch it up. It is not as fine of a tool edge as the micro grain carbides, but it is simple to resharpen.

robo hippy
Robo hippy, I watched your video from 10 years ago and followed the link to Arch Cutting Tools, but I couldn't find any similar tools there. It’s a pity you don't record new videos. I recently wrote to you about this — I believe many people would truly appreciate your experience. Thank you.)
 
While it is true that you can resharpen the flat cutters, the cupped ones can not be resharpened. John Lucas tried it and the edges chipped. I would only be using the cupped ones for the work I do. They never go get back to "factory sharp", This may be in part because most don't have fine enough diamond plates. For my flatwork tools, I do have diamond plates up to 8000 grit. I don't think they make them finer than that.

robo hippy
 
Robust web page says they are starting to manufacture their own coring system. Looks like it may be using Mike Hunter type cutters . Another option is always good!
 
I am guessing here, but the Oneway system is rock solid out to the biggest core you can take. The Woodcut has a little bit of vibration to it. You do need to have the tailstock on the lathe to use it with the Woodcut.

robo hippy
 
Well I had no detectable vibration with the Woodcut and It is the easiest of the three to use but it was limited (the one I had anyway) by being attached to the tail stock. The Oneway is a lot ore versatile than it has been given credit for and can do more than just the same shaped bowls plus is rock steady and now with the Korpro it is just a great easy to use tool.
 
I think he's saying he opened them from the website and did not save them to phone.

However, many may not realize that if you opened it on your phone , your phone HAS downloaded it, but it may be stored in a cache in out of the way places (such as temporary files) , it could still be re-opened from there, generally and then saved...

but the basics of it is , he's saying he opened it direct from website without saving it first , when he attempted to re-open it from the website again (or download & save as) , website's design prevented him from doing so..

could be he didn't know how to save the file from browser (depends on phone and phone browser, but some can be really obscure about how to do simple things like that) so tried to "download" as opposed to "open" (both are similar in the background, difference is in what phone does with it once downloaded..)

I have mine set to not do anything automatically, i need to actually save it myself, too much crap floating around out there, typically i will open stuff on my phone that i am not sure about, way cheaper to restore or trade in than a system i use for drafting, then will either transfer it, via email, as i tried to do with those files, (opened on the phone, then emailed it to my computer) couldnt open them again, some security function they have built in to the download, luckily i had a feeling i should check before opening all of them like that so only lost a few files, was just irritating to not be able to retrieve something i paid for, wont make that mistake again, as i mentioned to Bill, i was pissed off enough by the reply i got from them that after seeing how simple the data was i went and started fooling around in AutoCAD and came up with my own system that is basicly the same thing, blocks that show pivot centers and radius of cuts, can easily move the blocks around and come up with an infinite number of combinations that do the same thing,
It aint rocket science
Simple geometry
Just sayin is all
 
If I am coring madrone, no vibration with the Woodcut system. If I am coring myrtle or black locust, then I get some vibration, but that seems to happen no matter what coring system I am using.. Well, not with the Oneway, that is rock solid all the way to the end of the deepest core. I just find the tailstock to be in the way for 90% of the turning I do. It is essential for spindles and boxes, at least to start them.

robo hippy
 
On using and sharpening carbide:

Yes, it doesn't cut as readily as HSS with most woods, but its edge durability comes into its own with very hard woods like we have down here and dirty woods like root balls.

The way I use them, cup carbide inserts cut and flat inserts scrape and that makes quite a difference depending on the task. You can't compare a flat carbide that scrapes with a bowl gouge that cuts. If you want to do a comparison it's cup carbide vs HSS Bowl gouge or flat carbide scraper vs flat bar HSS scraper.

The grade of carbide does make a difference. The finer carbides in the newer nano-carbides give a finer cutting edge, but cost then comes into it. It depends on your purpose, eg. there is little value in using a nano-carbide if you are just hogging away at a dirty root ball.

To sharpen, for the initial grind or for redressing, use a resin-bonded diamond wheel or disc in your powered sharpener of choice. IME, a resin-bonded diamond matrix is less likely to fracture the fine carbide cutting edge than a metal bonded diamond wheel.

To refresh the edge, use a fine micron diamond past on a powered hard hone made from a very fine grained wood or dense particle board. I find that with this method it is quick to get an edge cutting again.

Polishing TC with diamond hone.jpg 20241128_170539.jpg

Soft hones like leather, felt and rag wheels tend round over the surface next to the edge more than I like.
~
 
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