IF the material is maintained with sufficient moisture it will be plastic enough long enough to take the stress developed by shrink. Less stress, greater survivability. The surface, if it dries significantly below the fiber saturation point, will produce checks. I'm sure we've all pressed a bit too hard when sanding and realize what a surface check is, and that less the mechanical stress, it will close as the wood rehydrates. Matters not if the moisture comes from within during the drying process or without from a damp rag, if it's not being pulled (inside is a squeeze, and can be disregarded) apart simultaneously, good to go.
Point of science is to take those measures which promote successful drying. Difficulty is that we run up against folklore or statements endowed with the full aura of an "expert" quotation which are ill-considered or erroneous. The 10% rule is one piece of drying folklore, the even thickness rule is yet another. Investigation and observation, coupled with a bit of scholarly data researched from those folks who do it 24/7/365 gives us a chance to do better, but we have to be able to recognize what we've done when we evaluate. Otherwise we'll end up turning a bit thinner than the 10% rule, perform some magic incantation or accidentally drop the wood in ethanol and trumpet a new drying process when all along it's been known that thinner wood with the same grain presentation dries faster than thick, (not quite the inverse square rule, but close) and that wood contracts on itself, it can't hook on air. Thinner walls will dry faster and distort less overall as long as we minimize the contiguous wood by tapering to the bottom.
"Did he say thinner bottoms were better?" No, the bottom is the bottom and when the rise reaches perhaps 25% of the run, it's no longer the bottom, but the side. If you take the 1/8 in 2" and make it into a robust tenon of 4", it's going to shrink a full quarter plus, because you'll shoulder, of course. That can be a lot of stress exerted at 90 degrees, less at 75, and even less at 60. So leaving enough extra thickness in the bottom so you can make the tenon longer and broader can hurt you. But it's the breadth, not the thickness that does it.
I use a mortised dovetail hold which allows a deeper interior on the same thickness blank or a fair inside curve that doesn't match the outside. It's a good way to go, allows me to taper in to avoid splits and I have to enlarge it back to optimum hold size after drying, rather than make it larger and then turn down after. It's been good to me.