I turned this bowl from a burl that was given to me from northern MN. I'd appreciate any comments and suggestions. I've left the tenon on for now. Also, what finish would make this pop?
Thanks
Thanks
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Critique or suggestions
- Thread starter Jim Walters
- Start date
This is just my opinion, FYI.
That wood is absolutely gorgeous, but I think the uneven rim and the bark (and inclusion) distract. I understand the desire to maximize the size of the bowl. However, in this case if you make a shorter bowl that gets rid of most of the defects, you would have a very attractive piece. I would also suggest to strive for a smooth, continuous curve on the exterior, instead of the angular shape you have now. Keep the walls thick, and make a round bottom. No foot. Maybe a water-based finish to keep as much of the light color as possible—Waterlox? The following is a super nice bowl that Jamie Donaldson made, and is what I see as your bowl’s potential.
EDIT: as @Tom Gall mentioned below, Waterlox is definitely not water-based. Oof. Here is an alternative/correction. Minwax Polycrylic is a good water-based finish that doesn’t change the color much. I’ve used it a few times, and it’s fairly easy. Just sand lightly between coats. Light blonde shellac is also a good option, but doesn’t quite have the same durability as polycrylic.
That wood is absolutely gorgeous, but I think the uneven rim and the bark (and inclusion) distract. I understand the desire to maximize the size of the bowl. However, in this case if you make a shorter bowl that gets rid of most of the defects, you would have a very attractive piece. I would also suggest to strive for a smooth, continuous curve on the exterior, instead of the angular shape you have now. Keep the walls thick, and make a round bottom. No foot. Maybe a water-based finish to keep as much of the light color as possible—
EDIT: as @Tom Gall mentioned below, Waterlox is definitely not water-based. Oof. Here is an alternative/correction. Minwax Polycrylic is a good water-based finish that doesn’t change the color much. I’ve used it a few times, and it’s fairly easy. Just sand lightly between coats. Light blonde shellac is also a good option, but doesn’t quite have the same durability as polycrylic.
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Jim, you are on your way to better bowls by asking your question. My suggestion would be to get a copy of Richard Raffans book, The Art of Turned Bowls. You will learn a lot about form from one of the masters. My othef suggestion would be to try and find/attend a local AAW woodurners club in your area (if feasible). Most clubs have a member gallery review/critique where you can get some great feedback from experienced turners.
Keep turning and it gets better and better!
Keep turning and it gets better and better!
I agree 100% with @Michael Anderson. It looks like you are trying to maximize the amount of wood you can keep—it’s hard not to with such a pretty piece of wood, but design ends up taking a back seat when you do that.
I also generally agree with Michael, with a couple additional thoughts.
A smaller foot would also be appealing, if you didn't want to go footloose. Er, footfree. The rule of thumb I was taught is less than 40% of the bowl diameter, though 30% often makes a nicer bowl than 40.
A thick bowl is harder to get 'right'. It has a very distinctive look, which is very subject to personal aesthetic opinion. It's harder to achieve a satisfactory look, and especially a satisfactory feel when hefted, than with a more conventional thickness. It's not wrong, just harder to get it so you're happy with it.
Any finish will make this bowl look great. If you leave more 'defects' then it's art and not utility, and for me that means a film finish, but if you remove most or all of the 'defects', then it's at least potentially functional, which gets an oil finish.
This is a wonderful piece of wood, but you've got a lot of 'special' spots on there. It would be challenging for any of us to decide how to proceed in a way that maximized it's potential--retaining those we like and removing those we didn't. Ultimately, you get to choose, and then it's an expression of your personal artistic sensibility. Proceed boldly, and please post a picture of it when it's finished.
A smaller foot would also be appealing, if you didn't want to go footloose. Er, footfree. The rule of thumb I was taught is less than 40% of the bowl diameter, though 30% often makes a nicer bowl than 40.
A thick bowl is harder to get 'right'. It has a very distinctive look, which is very subject to personal aesthetic opinion. It's harder to achieve a satisfactory look, and especially a satisfactory feel when hefted, than with a more conventional thickness. It's not wrong, just harder to get it so you're happy with it.
Any finish will make this bowl look great. If you leave more 'defects' then it's art and not utility, and for me that means a film finish, but if you remove most or all of the 'defects', then it's at least potentially functional, which gets an oil finish.
This is a wonderful piece of wood, but you've got a lot of 'special' spots on there. It would be challenging for any of us to decide how to proceed in a way that maximized it's potential--retaining those we like and removing those we didn't. Ultimately, you get to choose, and then it's an expression of your personal artistic sensibility. Proceed boldly, and please post a picture of it when it's finished.
Tom Gall
TOTW Team
@Michael Anderson makes some good points and excellent suggestions.
Except - "Maybe a water-based finish to keep as much of the light color as possible—Waterlox?" Waterlox is a polymerized oil based finish (tung oil?) and was/is a sealer finish for many materials - including wood. I believe the name implies that it "locks" out the "water".
Except - "Maybe a water-based finish to keep as much of the light color as possible—Waterlox?" Waterlox is a polymerized oil based finish (tung oil?) and was/is a sealer finish for many materials - including wood. I believe the name implies that it "locks" out the "water".
Ahh dumb! Yes that was a big boneheaded oversight. Ignore that @John Dillon 
Jim, just my humble opinion.
That's a lovely burl piece, love the character, yup, a treasure. For art pieces, inclusions & defects show the natural beauty, which are good to show.
If you reduce the height to remove the defects, much height and depth will be lost. That would seem appropriate for a utility piece if that's your intended purpose.
Sans foot on larger bowls make bowls less tippy.
As Mike mentioned, a more continuous curve would be an appropriate design enhancement, fairly easy to do as you still have the tenon. Although sometimes that can be carefully modified on the reverse turning or jam chucking step to finalize the bottom.
That's a lovely burl piece, love the character, yup, a treasure. For art pieces, inclusions & defects show the natural beauty, which are good to show.
If you reduce the height to remove the defects, much height and depth will be lost. That would seem appropriate for a utility piece if that's your intended purpose.
Sans foot on larger bowls make bowls less tippy.
As Mike mentioned, a more continuous curve would be an appropriate design enhancement, fairly easy to do as you still have the tenon. Although sometimes that can be carefully modified on the reverse turning or jam chucking step to finalize the bottom.
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One concern I would have are the bark inclusions. Several May pose danger to you.
this one the rim section is held in two spots. weaken or stress those spots and the rim section may break off.
Cutting from the rim or cutting the walls thinner reduce the holding strength. Burls lack the strength on long grain.
do be careful. There is no way of knowing for sure which cut will let it break free.
,
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. Several of you have hit at one of my internal struggles which is knowing how many of the "defects" or "natural features" to remove. In the past, I've left worm holes and knots in pieces. Still trying to develop my sense "art" vs "crap".
This is the most interesting piece of wood that I've had on the lathe and I want to minimize how much I cut away, while ending with a bowl that shows the beauty of the wood. Many of you are correct in your comments about my hesitancy to remove more wood and end with a smaller bowl.
All the comments about the curvature, the "heft test", the foot size or footless, danger spots, and utility vs art are all very helpful for all bowls.
Thanks again for taking time to comment. I appreciate all the feedback and will post a pic when I am finished.
This is the most interesting piece of wood that I've had on the lathe and I want to minimize how much I cut away, while ending with a bowl that shows the beauty of the wood. Many of you are correct in your comments about my hesitancy to remove more wood and end with a smaller bowl.
All the comments about the curvature, the "heft test", the foot size or footless, danger spots, and utility vs art are all very helpful for all bowls.
Thanks again for taking time to comment. I appreciate all the feedback and will post a pic when I am finished.
Couldn't wait to see what I could accomplish armed with all of your tips and suggestions. When I started I was focused on a much more pleasing curve on the outside by eliminating the angular shape toward the rim and thinning the wall some while decreasing the depth or eliminating some of the bark inclusions. As the shape changed, I stopped frequently to examine the bark inclusion for safety and trying to keep the walls from getting too thin. I took about 1/2 in off of the height and felt that helped with the look. My sweetie is looking for a special place to put it, so my favorite critic is pleased.
Again your comments are welcome as I want to get better.
Again your comments are welcome as I want to get better.
Great job! I like where you ended up. That really highlights both the beautiful grain and the bark inclusion as a unique feature. Very much improved, and an excellent job.
That looks much better than the original pictures to me.
Looks really nice! Great re-work!
Nice improvement. Simply thinning it down helped a lot. I cant tell (pics can be deceiving) if yoy intended a bit of undercut rim? It looks like it could be a bit of a groove bs an intended undercut. I prefer the open defects vs filling - long as the piece is structurally solid.
Thanks for the comments. Doug, there is some undercut on the rim. After looking at it some time, I should have made it even thinner and eliminating the undercut.
Good judgement comes from experience, experience comes from poor judgement. So I'm learning.
Good judgement comes from experience, experience comes from poor judgement. So I'm learning.
Just keep at it, try different things, keep good and bad examples around to remind you. I encourage people not to concern their mind with making a masterpiece, rather trying things, different designs etc and learn. The more made the better one gets, the easier it gets to “know” where to steer the tool.
Personally I have an idea of what a blank may become when I chainsaw it, but that may change as the chips come off and the form starts to take shape, or grain structure surprises show, or defects show. Each piece is a little or a lot of exploration. Bland wood is great for working on form.
Personally I have an idea of what a blank may become when I chainsaw it, but that may change as the chips come off and the form starts to take shape, or grain structure surprises show, or defects show. Each piece is a little or a lot of exploration. Bland wood is great for working on form.