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Defective ProForme Cutter?

Randy Anderson

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I do a lot of deep hollowing and recently decided to try the ProForme shielded cutter from WoodCut. I used it for the first time a few days ago. I was very pleased with how I could control it and the amount of material I could remove with it but I noticed I couldn't adjust the cutter shield as I expected. After examining it a bit it appears to me that the nose of the shield is distorted down and slightly twisted in a way that prevents it from extending out over the cutter edge. I would expect the shield to be able to extend out over the cutter to allow for how aggressive a cut to make and to allow the chips to clear through the gap - one of it's main features I believe. The nose of the shield on mine hits the cutter just below the edge which prevents me from being able to change the depth of cut as I would expect. Am I missing something in the setup? I've attached a few pictures that should show the issue better. I've looked online at pictures and from what I can tell the shield should be parallel with the cutter edge but slightly above it. I have a Roly Munro cutter that I use all the time and that's the way it operates.
 

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I had similar issues with my ProForme cutter as supplied. Fortunately the brass guard is easily re-shaped with a file. You may need to adjust the height or angle of the seat as well as the nose.
 
Thanks Kevin. Always good to hear I'm not the only one with an issue or doing something stupid. I've resisted taking a file to it hoping I could get some response from Woodcut to send a replacement. No luck so far so I guess that will end up being the solution.

Note: I decided to order directly from Woodcut to save a few bucks since I only wanted the cutter head. They're in New Zealand. The price was very reasonable BUT, when it arrived in the US there was a $76 duties/customs fee I had to pay for it to be delivered. WoodCut offered a discount on a future purchase to help offset the unexpected expense but since then no response to my emails on the added cost or the alignment issue.
 
I look on it as a kit. I guess fettling the assembly in production is too hard or costly for them. I would be curious to know how you rate it against the Munro cutter.
 
Hard to do a comparison since I only have one use of the ProForme but, I was really impressed at how well it could remove wet walnut in large curly shavings from a large walnut piece I'm working on. Since I can't adjust the cut depth with it like it is I don't know about how well it will be at finer cuts or deep cuts on wet wood but I expect it to do well. Interested to see how well the edge holds up on the cutter vs the cupped carbide cutter on the Roly Munro. One of my hesitations with it is how often (and for how many times) will I need to sharpen it.

I use the Roly Munro all the time, with and without the shield depending on the wood and the depth. As I've been told and agree, you develop a love/hate relationship with it. It's a very well made tool. Very high quality steel and machining. Due to the design the cutter head can clog on wet wood. I use a pivot post tool rest which makes all the difference. I can apply pressure to the cutter head and it will almost always clear and get back to cutting. Without the ability to use a pivot post and some force it would require constant clearing on wet wood. The pivot also gives me much better fine control, especially when going deep, than I can get without it. I use it in my Clark hollowing setup as well as freehand.
 
With no reply from Woodcut I went ahead and carefully filed the nose of the brass shield to be in plane with the rest of the cutter. Used it to finish up a large walnut hollow form and it worked well on wet wood. I'm not able to reduce the cut depth as much as I'd like so may have to make a few more adjustments. More aggressive than I wanted on some of my final passes. Thanks for the tip.

Also, assumed since from New Zealand that it was made there based on what I saw online. Nope, note on packing list says made in China. So they make it in China, ship it to New Zealand and then ship it out.
 
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I'm not able to reduce the cut depth as much as I'd like so may have to make a few more adjustments. More aggressive than I wanted on some of my final passes.
You may be able to increase the range by taking a round file to the back of the adjustment slot. I found the tool to be a bit hard to control on final passes as well, but it can't be beat for hogging green end grain material if adjusted correctly. A drawback is having to frequently rake out the long curly shavings- best used on large-mouthed vessels like your vases. I'll be interested to see how you like it as time goes by.
 
Thanks Kevin, I was just looking to see how I could increase the distance I could move the shield forward. Only need a grunt or so. This was a large, 18" X 18" round walnut I turned from the side. I'm OK stopping every few minutes to pull out mountains of thick curls - sense of progress. It did great on side grain and even the pith end grain running across the middle from side to side. Most of my pieces are end grain so next up I'll see. I don't have an angle mount for it yet so have to use it straight in. Need to get that in the works. I use them on my Roly Munro head a lot.

Hollowing done - it's in the boiling pot for the next few hours!!
 
Thanks Dan. I was confused for a moment between the forum and email and your name in both places. Glad you’re here. If it keeps working like it did today, even after my bit of filing, it’ll be my primary hollowing tool. Wish I’d bought sooner.
 
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