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Do you normally prototype a new idea?

Paul May

Paul May

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Jun 5, 2023
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Portage, MI
Good morning,
I was wondering what everyone's work practice was when it comes to designing a new piece or incorporating elements not tested before. Do you make a prototype of what you envision? When I have a new design idea, I tend to make a smaller, less valuable version when I try out ideas. That way expensive stock doesn't end up in the burn pile. :cool:
 
Not normally, but I have done it on new projects that I have never done where measurements are critical such as pepper mills, also have done it when trying new procedures such as doing multi axis turnings and twisted items.
 
Yes, most always. Anything truly new to me, new type of tool, method, etc. EX: watched a video of Richard Raffan on how he does beads on x-grain. Chucked up a piece of “junk wood” to try it out. I will need a few more practice sessions before attempting it for a “finished piece”. Something like this can be practiced on any piece while bringing it to shape (where it will be cut off anyway).

I also do the same for testing out changes in finishing - I never try out new to me finishing/buffing/whatever on a piece intended for something - I’ll make something solely for testing the new method.
 
Paul May said:
Good morning,
I was wondering what everyone's work practice was when it comes to designing a new piece or incorporating elements not tested before. Do you make a prototype of what you envision? When I have a new design idea, I tend to make a smaller, less valuable version when I try out ideas. That way expensive stock doesn't end up in the burn pile. :cool:
Click to expand...

I do this a lot. Sometimes full scale. I tend to doodle in wood more than on paper.
Especially use for pieces with multiple components.

I also use paper cutouts to see carving layouts, dimensions, and scale.
 
I model a design in a CAD program where I can "make" multiple versions. I also do a lot of full size drawings on graph paper. I haven't done much prototyping in wood.
 
Always.

Because most of what I do is surface embellishments, I start with sketching the patterns in one of my sketch books. Then I sketch the pattern on flat wood - these become story boards. I make more than one, and the next version is to go over the pencil drawn patterns with a wood burning tip. These are all still flat boards, and by this time I have drawn the pattern at least 5-8 times. Each exercise informs me, as I refine the pattern. Next is a curved surface, still a scrap piece. I do several of these because the patterns don't lay down or look the same on a curved surface. If color will be an element, I will do more flat and curved pieces that will have several versions of color.

By the time I use a pattern on the real piece, I have practiced and worked out every step of the process about a dozen times. And I save most of those boards and curved pieces for future reference. I do this because it takes less time to make mistakes on smaller pieces than to turn and sand a 12" piece, get halfway through and screw it up.
 
Donna Banfield said:
Always.

I do this because it takes less time to make mistakes on smaller pieces than to turn and sand a 12" piece, get halfway through and screw it up.
Click to expand...
I ALWAYS get well past half way before the screw up happens. Usually it's the "I think one more pass will make this perfect" moment. ;)

Making prototypes is one of the best lessons I've learned on this journey. Anybody want a 5 gallon bucket of not-quite-right horns?
 
Yes, I tend to make a mock up of the project before cutting and assembling parts.Recently made a clock with a different type of base so had timber, stone, timber, brass and timber again to assemble together. All went well on the dry run and then the glue -up. Unfortunately baggage handlers have no respect for wood turning!! (Long story)
 
I design on Lloyd Johnson’s SegmentPro software. Once the piece is being glued up, I often change directions due to not liking contrast between woods or general color of the vessel. Seeing the actual wood together is typically the culprit!
 
I often make prototypes using inexpensive woods before making the final piece. It ensures

1. The overall shape is a good form,
2. I know the process to follow to get the shape I want (e.g., the order of operations), and
3. I can practice on elements for which I am not firmly practiced (e.g., threads).
 
Most turners would be amazed at the number of specialized jigs and tools I've made. I almost never make a prototype, and usually try to make the finalized version right from the start. The funny thing about that, is more times than not, the original version becomes the prototype by default! Ha,ha......:)

-o-
 
I spent the greater part of my working life designing machinery and equipment to very precise dimensions I do not want to do that now.
In addition if I make a prototype and it works I do not want to do it that way again as it is no fun, I would want to try a different way.
I usually try to keep it simple so I can organize my thoughts and do it once. Do I screw up, yes, then I can figure a way to use the design opportunity to finish it.
That's more fun.
Stu
 
I do not do trials on turning as I do not buy wood and usually have plenty. If a mistake happens it happens and most of my turnings do not have a plan when started. Now as to color and burning yes I do tests before applying.
 
David Buskell said:
Yes, I tend to make a mock up of the project before cutting and assembling parts.Recently made a clock with a different type of base so had timber, stone, timber, brass and timber again to assemble together. All went well on the dry run and then the glue -up. Unfortunately baggage handlers have no respect for wood turning!! (Long story)
Click to expand...
been here
 
Depends on the type of project. I do a lot of spindle constructions (e.g., see my work on the back cover of the April American Woodturner). With that sort of work I do roughly scaled pencil drawings to find something interesting enough to try on the lathe. That generally provides a point of departure for further experiments on paper and in wood. Since I have inexpensive access to both maple and oak a lot of my experiments are done on the lathe rather than paper. For more complex 3D spindle confections, I sometimes use scrap and dowels for rough prototypes.

With 3D multiaxis turning, I basically experiment on the lathe -- drawings just don't tell me enough. Again, I have inexpensive suitable wood. Taking two week-long classes with Derek Weidman has contributed to that approach.

It would probably help if I could do some prelim work with 3D software modeling, but I have yet to find a program I can work with. Any suggestions?
 
If, some day, I have a new idea, I will think about prototyping it. Most of the "new" things I see I don't find very attractive, so the incentive to invent a new wheel is pretty limited-- I know I'm no artist. I'm very happy making (hopefully) well-proportioned, nice looking, mostly functional, objects.

My wood almost always comes from the firewood pile, so there's not much lost if that's where it ends back up.
 
Roger Wiegand said:
If, some day, I have a new idea, I will think about prototyping it. Most of the "new" things I see I don't find very attractive, so the incentive to invent a new wheel is pretty limited-- I know I'm no artist. I'm very happy making (hopefully) well-proportioned, nice looking, mostly functional, objects.

My wood almost always comes from the firewood pile, so there's not much lost if that's where it ends back up.
Click to expand...
Amen, brother.
 
R Henrickson said:
It would probably help if I could do some prelim work with 3D software modeling, but I have yet to find a program I can work with. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Which programs have you tried? I started with Sketchup. Great program for flatwork, but it can't draw a  true circle, so it wasn't optimum. I migrated to Fusion360 which works much better for me, but has a learning curve that looks like El Capitan.
 
Mark Jundanian said:
Which programs have you tried? I started with Sketchup. Great program for flatwork, but it can't draw a  true circle, so it wasn't optimum. I migrated to Fusion360 which works much better for me, but has a learning curve that looks like El Capitan.
Click to expand...
SketchUp mainly, without success. An El Capitan learning curve won't work -- for me it would likely scale up to Everest. Pencil and paper I do understand, having done thousands of scaled pottery drawings, and innumerable plans during my decades of archaeological fieldwork.
 
There is everything to be said for graph paper and drawing. I have learned just enough about 360 to accomplish my task, but I still do full size pencil and paper drawings.
 
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