• Congratulations to Tim Soutar winner of the May 2025 Turning Challenge (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Dave Landers for "Pod Box" being selected as Turning of the Week for June 2, 2025 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Easy core not cutting

John Hicks

John Hicks

Joined
Jan 23, 2020
Messages
695
Likes
973
Location
Shingletown CA
I use the Easy Core system from Oneway. I have noticed when cutting (in this case green claro walnut) that it is almost impossible to get it to cut the final inch or two after making the curve. I use the support arm. I'm wodering if any of you have any tricks? I have to shove with considerable force to get it to cut that last bit. I have carbide cutters and they are sharp. I set the cutter just above center. I am cutting betweed 350-400 rpm. The last one I was coring was about 17".
 
With the McNaughton, if I am cutting a core all the way off, like with burl or crotch wood which will pull through the bottom of the bowl, I think to cut it all the way off, you need to be pretty much dead center for height. If it is 1/4 inch high, then you would have a 1/4 radius stub at the center which will not cut. The Oneway does not flex at all as you core. The McNaughton flexes a LOT. If the tip is not sharp would be my next guess. Maybe duller than you think...

robo hippy
 
As Robo said, and per the instructions, the cutter should be at dead center. I set mine by putting a spur drive in the head stock, and adjust the height to the center point of the spur. You could also do it with a live center in the tail stock.
 
I agree with the dead centre strategy. I encountered the same issue and a millimeter adjustment downwards fixed the problem.
 
Remember that the cutter arm will deflect downward under cutting load, which may vary depending on several factors including tool pressure, tool sharpness, motor speed, etc. Some experimentation may be be required to get the desired cutting height.
 
John Hicks said:
I use the Easy Core system from Oneway. I have noticed when cutting (in this case green claro walnut) that it is almost impossible to get it to cut the final inch or two after making the curve. I use the support arm. I'm wodering if any of you have any tricks? I have to shove with considerable force to get it to cut that last bit. I have carbide cutters and they are sharp. I set the cutter just above center. I am cutting betweed 350-400 rpm. The last one I was coring was about 17".
Click to expand...
John while I have not cored claro walnut I do core lots of green arbutus, both burl and straight as well as maple and walnut (not sure what kind of walnut but its not black The only time I have trouble near the end is when I have the speed too high, I don't know how many rpm I just go by feel but often I need to slow down as I enter that last bit, I also use the Oneway and have carbide cutters. Not sure if that will help you but I'm doing what your doing. cheers
 
I've tried the dead center set up and more often than not, the support arm get stuck in the kerf. I'll just keep playing around with it; Although after coring 50-60 bowls, you'd think I'd know what I'm doing by now? Dryer woods, I have not problem. I refuse to pay 200 dollars for one cutter!! I refuse I tell ya!
 
John,
Spending $200 for the cutter will make coring much more fun.
Go sell the first cored bowl for $200 and that will take care of the cost. Buy and extra cutter while you are at it.....$30. Put it in a safe place that you will remember. Although, I have used my original cutter quite a bit and have not even turned it around yet.
Coring can be stressful. The $200 cutter will take some of the stress out of it.
 
I've cored many bowls with my one way. I've had trouble with some woods but have hardly never cut all the way through when it gets to about 1-1/2" I just stop and smack the core bowl on one edge if it breaks loose great if not I core a little more then do it again, usually the sound tells me when it's about break. I always slow down before finishing. Now I said that to say this I got tired of sharpening those tiny bits, and the carbide bits are nice for a couple times but then they act like the others too me at least. The best money I've spent in a long time was to buy the cutter because I had a load of walnut to turn and core and life became so easy with the new cutter it is like a dream coring where it used to be a royal pain sometimes. Just my 2 cents
 
Hugh said:
John,
Spending $200 for the cutter will make coring much more fun.
Go sell the first cored bowl for $200 and that will take care of the cost. Buy and extra cutter while you are at it.....$30. Put it in a safe place that you will remember. Although, I have used my original cutter quite a bit and have not even turned it around yet.
Coring can be stressful. The $200 cutter will take some of the stress out of it.
Click to expand...
I'm missing something here. What $200 cutter?
 
Nothing is going to go down in cost. Inflation happens. Get used to it.
John....I cored a couple of Oak bowls the other day.......using my KorPro cutter on the Oneway System. Easy and simple. Very little stress.
Good luck.
 
I do not know what the cost was to set up for manufacturing what is needed to make that cutter to fit the Oneway corer but I can bet that it was or is not cheap. Would you be willing to invest many many thousands of dollars to make something that you hope someone will buy? I am sure glad that Mike Hunter decided to do so myself as a once tedious job is a whole lot more relaxing than it used to be. I have not gotten a piece of kit from Mike Hunter that has not been a good investment.
 
I don't know if Oneway would do this or not. I bought one of their standard cutters that had been hardened, but the tip had not been ground into the blank. I ground down the sides a bit so it was a trapezoid, wide end being the cutting end, and narrow end being the tool end, and the grooves were on the bottom. It worked far better than the spear point tip that they make as standard, and you don't have to take it off to sharpen it. Just a few swipes with a coarse diamond card, and you have a nice burr. I did talk to AZ carbide about having some made, and apparently the carbide ones they have are cast with the tip on it. I think it was some thing like 300 pieces minimum for a 'custom' order. Not sure if you could silver solder some tantung on the tips or not, but that does work well on my McNaughton blades.

robo hippy
 
Will also throw my vote in for the Korpro. Was expensive for what it is but soooo much better. I am not knocking Hunter for charging that, they probably don't sell many and need to recoup their investment.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top