I've done quite a few end grain bowls or vessels. The only negative is that if you are turning the entire log or branch, the pith will remain and you need to plan for that issue. Some turners remove the pith and replace that with a plug. I've not done that.
Some woods I just won't turn end grain as a log or branch simple because of their propensity to crack regardless of the care taken. Oak, apple and cherry, for example, are three species that I try not to turn end grain with the pith.
If you do leave the pith in, try to orient your blank with the pith directly in the center of the turning., i.e., start your blank between centers and place the point of your live center and spur drive on the pith at both ends. That seems to reduce chances of splitting outward. Then turn your tenon on whatever end will be your bottom, and put it in a 4 jaw chuck, or screw it to a faceplate. I also soak the pith area inside and out with CA glue once I've turned it, either roughed out or turned once to finish.
Turning end grain the cuts are different, too. If you try to take a cut from rim to bottom of the bowl, as you would with a side grain bowl, you'll be fighting the entire time. That's because the wood fibers are bundles of straws, and all bundled together in that orientation they have a lot of strength. You need to cut from the bottom, up. I drill a hole into the center of the bowl or vessel, and using my bowl gouge, flute facing left at about a 45 deg angle (or at about 10:00), place the tip of the gouge into the hole, and take a cut and pull the gouge toward me, or to the top or rim. Keep repeating this process to until you achieve your final wall thickness.
Hope this is what you were looking for.