• July 2025 Turning Challenge: Turn a Multi-axis Weed Pot! (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Bobby McCarly for "Hemostatmorphodon" being selected as Turning of the Week for July 7, 2025 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Face shield life extension

D

Dennis Weiner

Joined
Jan 3, 2012
Messages
464
Likes
389
Location
New City, NY
I have been a little rough on faceshields over the years. They seem to get scratched fairly easily.
I use them until my vision is impaired then replace em.

I needed a face shield for the road so I took an old HFT and attempted using the Beall system to buff out the scratches and to my surprise they almost were invisible and the plastic was almost colorless and renewed.

Any other ideas on how everyone maintains the plastic especiallly on expensive PAPRs.
 
Dennis Weiner said:
I have been a little rough on faceshields over the years. They seem to get scratched fairly easily.
I use them until my vision is impaired then replace em.

I needed a face shield for the road so I took an old HFT and attempted using the Beall system to buff out the scratches and to my surprise they almost were invisible and the plastic was almost colorless and renewed.

Any other ideas on how everyone maintains the plastic especiallly on expensive PAPRs.
Click to expand...

I'm interested to hear more about the procedures you used for this using the Beall system. Did you use Tripoli (EEE) and/or white diamond? Thanks......

-----odie-----
 
Back in my racing days when I wore a racing helmet they used to make a peel off lens to remove the dirty layer and keep on racing. This would be similar to the replaceable plastic lens that goes over the top of a cell phone. You could also look at the film that comes on a roll that they tint windows with, they usually just mix water and soap together and squeegee the film over the glass. This would be a cheap way to protect an expensive face shield.
 
Interesting, would this also work on headlights that get fogged over?

I know that they sell kits of various polishes and compounds for this and have used them to some effect, but I already have a supply of various polishing compounds in my shop.

I will try this next time they need cleaning.

Stu
 
Dennis Weiner said:
I have been a little rough on faceshields over the years. They seem to get scratched fairly easily.
I use them until my vision is impaired then replace em.

I needed a face shield for the road so I took an old HFT and attempted using the Beall system to buff out the scratches and to my surprise they almost were invisible and the plastic was almost colorless and renewed.

Any other ideas on how everyone maintains the plastic especiallly on expensive PAPRs.
Click to expand...
Before owning my 3M Airstream helmet, I was using regular faceshields. I was cleaning it with Simple Green, and I noticed that it was damaging the plexiglass. Tiny small cracks appeared all around the edges... So, stay away from Simple Green, a sprayer with just water is what I now use.
 
The overlays for the Trend Airshield (or maybe other brands also) seem to be the easiest solution if they fit. I find they really don't get scratched very easily so don't need to be changed out that often. Plus, if cleaned with an anti-static cleaner, the dust doesn't collect on them either.
 
I'm not sure how it's possible for dust to be trapped between the overlay and face shield unless the overlay isn't stretched tight between the 2 adhesive strips when installed. Are you sure it's not on top of the overlay? I found that dust does collect on the outside over time unless I clean periodically with an antic-static cleaner made for plastics.
 
Michael Nathal said:
I have had trouble with overlays: fine dust seems to get trapped between the shield and the overlay.
Click to expand...

I agree that is absolutely a problem that makes the overlays much worse than using the shield bare because once there the dust isn'y going anywhere until the overlay is replaced.

Randy Heinemann said:
I'm not sure how it's possible for dust to be trapped between the overlay and face shield unless the overlay isn't stretched tight between the 2 adhesive strips when installed. Are you sure it's not on top of the overlay? I found that dust does collect on the outside over time unless I clean periodically with an antic-static cleaner made for plastics.
Click to expand...

I'll vouch for what Michael says. It would be surprising if dust didn't accumulate between shield and overlay. Regardless of how tightly you can stretch the overlay it won't be sufficient. Here are several factors that are responsible:
  • Neither the shield nor the overlay material are perfectly flat so they will have spaces where dust can get between them
  • Difference in coefficients of thermal expansion -- with temperature changes the two materials will expand and contract differently.
  • Mechanical flexing -- with both my Airstream and Versaflo it is necessary to exert some force to latch and unlatch the visor assembly which results in a small amount of flexing that will allow dust to enter.
  • Blowing dust off might be the worst thing to do because it creates a low pressure between the overlay and visor that pulls dust in.
  • Plasticity* of the overlay adhesive. Over time the adhesive on the overlay is elongated laterally (creeps) due to the relative movement from thermal expansion/contraction and mechanical flexing of the visor assembly. The end result is a progressively looser fit between the overlay and visor.
I have tried using tape all around the perimeter of the overlay, but it narrows the field of view and leaves a gummy residue on the visor even with low tack painters tape. I have a bunch of overlays, but I don't know if I will ever use them. BTW, the Versaflo overlays are a little better than the Airstream overlays, but dust is still a problem.

*Plasticity vs. elasticity: Elasticity is the property in which a material deforms when a force is applied and then returns to its original shape when the force is removed. Plasticity is similar except the material stays deformed and doesn't return to its original shape when the force is removed. Tape adhesive is a good example of a plastic material. A spring is an example of an elastic material. A spring that is stretched too far is an example of plastic deformation.

OK, that was quite a detour. The bottom line is that dust gets between the overlay and the face shield. Also, getting the adhesive off the face shield is a problem. 3M suggests layering a bunch of overlays and when the one on top gets dirty just pull it off and you're good to go. My thought is that each layer reduces clarity.
 
Don’t know about the reasons. It’s just not a problem for my Airshield Pro. I always thought that the airflow was the reason. My biggest problem is getting the adhesive off the shield when changing overlays. I’ve tried all the solvents I thought safe for plastic.
 
Look at all the junk on the face shield that is not in your lungs, face or eyes. Consider the medical cost to repair that damage and consider the cost of a face shield paid for with other money that you do NOT have to spend. While you are ordering the new parts for the shield use some more of that money to feed your wood turning addiction which is not covered in any medical plan I have seen.

Stu
 
Hopefully nothing I've said prompted this last response. It would seem that everyone who posted in this thread understands the need to protect our bodies from dust and flying debris since we all use protection. I know I've gone way overboard on dust protection over the years and it was one of the first things I addressed just after I bought my lathe a couple of years ago with a hood over. the body of the lathe hooked to my cyclone HEPA dust collector as well as wearing the Airshield Pro while turning.
 
I use Kleer Vu Anti-Fog Cleaner. I got mine a number of years ago with another powered helmet/mask that I replaced with my Airshield Pro. Kleer Vu comes in a 2 ounce spray bottle and costs $8.25 on Amazon but is available from others also for around the same price. That may seem like a lot of money, but my bottle has lasted me years; many years. It just isn't something I found I have to use much, but it does a good job of cleaning my Airshield's overlay until the overlay gets scratched enough I replace it.
 
Bill I had dust under my overlay at first but not a problem now. Yes using air does remove the dust and will not suck in more dust.

As for the adhesive that is in your peripheral vision and therefore out of line of sight. Also I do not clean the adhesive of just stick the next one in the same place.

For anti static and cleaner Bill B clewed me on Novus 1 and it does a good job. We use it on our club shields also.
 
odie said:
I'm interested to hear more about the procedures you used for this using the Beall system. Did you use Tripoli (EEE) and/or white diamond? Thanks......

-----odie-----
Click to expand...
Sorry, I took so long responding Odie. On one shield, I used the white diamond and another faceshield I only used the Tripoli. They both worked satisfactorily. I didn’t use wax or I did use both compounds on a single mask. I removed the plastic assembly and buffed both sides. I considered them almost trash that’s why I was brave enough to try it!
I like the way this process visually softens up the the scratches on the mask. It doesn’t get rid of them completely.
So I thought I’d share this idea with the group.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top