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Faceplate Question

Robert, I was surprised that there are so few sources for M33X3.5 faceplates. After doing some searching, I discovered:

  • Vicmarc only has faceplate rings that fit their chucks
  • Vermec has modular faceplates and says to specify the thread size
  • Record Power in the UK only has ¾ X 16 and 1¼ X 8 faceplates which is somewhat surprising given that they are supposedly metric
  • EWT doesn't sell them
  • Maybe Bill Noble is still making faceplates from welded nuts and washers
Maybe Oneway and Best Wood Tools are the only sources. Faceplates aren't used much anymore, but if you are turning things that are very heavy and/or long, faceplates are almost essential for secure holding.
 
Carter also sales a modular plate system. Not sure what sizes they have.
Also Sierra Mold has billet faceplates. I'm getting ready to order a couple from them and another vacuum bell for my VacuuMaster.
 
Bill Boehme said:
. Faceplates aren't used much anymore, but if you are turning things that are very heavy and/or long, faceplates are almost essential for secure holding.
Click to expand...

Sad but true!

For bowls I almost always use a chuck. Even more often if it will be double turned.
Chucks are great for end grain hollow forms of modest size.

For face grain HF I almost always use a faceplate.
Much more secure mount with less vibration.
I encourage anyone hollowing face grain to use a faceplate.

I have quite a few faceplates dedicated to turned vacuum chucks and one or two with glue blocks on them.
 
hockenbery said:
Sad but true! For bowls I almost always use a chuck. Even more often if it will be double turned. Chucks are great for end grain hollow forms of modest size. For face grain HF I almost always use a faceplate. Much more secure mount with less vibration. I encourage anyone hollowing face grain to use a faceplate. I have quite a few faceplates dedicated to turned vacuum chucks and one or two with glue blocks on them.
Click to expand...
Al,
I agree 100% with this. I've become more and more fond of faceplate turning and using glue blocks. Been looking around for a few faceplates myself and they aren't easily found are are quite expensive for good cast iron or steel. I'm not a big fan of aluminum faceplates but did just acquire a couple from John Jordan as he had a couple he said he'd sell.
 
Odd, I turn almost nothing that doesn't at least start on a faceplate. My segmented turnings are on a faceplate the entire time until I turn the foot. I turn virtually no green wood, but pretty much everything at least starts its life on the lathe screwed to a faceplate. Didn't think I was unusual in that regard.
 
All, thanks for the replies. As some of you have seen and I was surprised to discover there are not many makers out there that produce faceplates for 33mm spindles. I have a Oneway and a Robust lathe that I had built with the same spindle thread as my Oneway so I could use all the same accessories on both. I still use faceplates pretty regular and was disappointed when I couldn't find many options out there for purchasing them.

Thanks, Robert
 
Hi Robert,
Greetings from the UK on Halloween.
You could try Axminster Power Tools in the UK
They have 75mm, 100mm and 150mm with M33 x 3.5
They ship overseas but not sure of costs to USA
www.axminster.co.uk

Kind regards
Tudor
 
Owen, I was hoping to find some in aluminum. I have one from Don Pencil that I got several years ago and really like it. I wouldn't mind regular steel. I already have a few of the stainless from Oneway but they are a bit expensive. I leave the faceplates on sometimes between turning sessions so I wanted to have a couple on hand.

Thanks, Robert
 
I always use a faceplate with facegrain hollowing and will only use a chuck on a tall end-grain hollowing when supported by a steady-rest. And over 15" dia, a 6" faceplate.

My concern on facegrain is the sheer line where the tenon connects to the piece - when it sheers, it sheers quick. But the sheer factor aside, I don't think there are many out there that can hollow a piece of any size without an occasional "snag".

My bases are always 4" or a bit less. On a Oneway 6", use 1.25" #14 on the six inside holes and 1" with ground tips on the outside - drill holes with a depth stop. I mount logs up to 300-lbs and have never had a problem or used longer screws. You can "dive under" the faceplate and create a 4" base with no problem after the weight is down and the rigors of hollowing are done.

A properly mounted faceplate takes a bit of time - certainly more than a chuck. But, then again, we're "re-creating" ourselves. And a chunk of wood coming off at any speed can quickly "un-create"...literally.
 
I believe www.bestwoodtools.com has or can make aluminum M33 faceplates. Give them a call land ask. In the Packard catalog they don't list them but Vick can make almost anything and his normal faceplates are all aluminum
 
I have not talked to Howard Borer for some time so dont know if he is still making faceplates.
howardborer@yahoo.com
He is in Oregon. I probably have 20 of his faceplates.
Just gave him a call. He is now working on a Oneway so is making faceplates for them. He says they are the most ugly of the faceplates he makes but they work.
He says he is getting $40 for one a bit over three inches. 503-658-3409
I am just a satisfied customer. Hes a great guy to boot.
 
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