Faceplate? Screw?

[Manny Yabar]

Hello everyone,

I know this is a beginner’s question—that’s exactly why I’m asking!

When do you choose to use the screw
versus a faceplate?

I’ll be cutting a split log into a round blank on the bandsaw and then turning it into a bowl. I have several pieces to practice on, so I’d really appreciate some guidance on when it’s best to use each method.

Thanks in advance for your advice and suggestions!

 

[Curt Fuller]

Both work very well on small bowls. Just remember to use a live center in the tailstock while getting the blank trued up. I'd suggest using both and see what works best for you because it's one of those 6 of one, half dozen of the other kind of things.

 

[hughie]

With the advent of decent screw chuck designs, and chucks in general etc I no longer use the faceplate method. If I have to go that way I will screw a block to the blank and use the chuck to hold the block.

 

[Darryl Fective]

You should try them both and see what you prefer. Everybody has their different ways of doing things that work best for them. After you've done a few, you'll probably develop your own preference. I can't remember the last time I've used a faceplate or screw for turning a bowl. Their big disadvantage is that you lock yourself into a rotational axis based on measurements (or just eyeballs) with no balance. Your lathe might run true, or shake and dance, but you won't know until you've committed to your arbitrary axis. If it's the latter, either you slow way down, or you start over.

I start between centers, so I have a large spur center that fits in my chuck, or an Elio drive. Either one will allow me to balance the log/blank before I lock in my axis. If there's some defect I want to remove, or grain/feature I want to highlight, I can alter the axis almost instantly, and keep going. I shape the outside and cut a tenon to fit one of my chucks. (I have 3 chucks, each with different size jaws) Then I flip it and mount it in a chuck and hollow the inside. I usually go back between centers to remove the tenon and shape the bottom. I never really have the full access that a vacuum chuck or Cole jaws give, but I get by without. I sort of view them as inefficient extra steps.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

FWIW, I start 90% of what I do between centers. Just a spur drive. If you haven't already, check out www.turnawoodbowl.com. It's the best site I know when you are starting out.

 

[Kirk Amidon]

For roughing bowls, either will work, but the woodworm screw is much simpler, as there is only a single hole to bore. I use woodworm screws when I'm roughing blanks which are asymmetrical, like on an emerging bowl. But even then, I'll use tailstock support.

I use faceplates for hollowing, where I want a lot more holding power. I don't use faceplates for bowls often, due to the many holes/screws to deal with, and chucks with a tenon work nearly as well.

 

[Dave Landers]

You might also this post from January: https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/worm-screw-vs-face-plate.25097/

 

[John Torchick]

Depends on the wood and what I'm going to do. Noticed a crack running from the faceplate. Might come into play with a screw.

 

[Rick Jarosz]

Hello everyone,

I know this is a beginner’s question—that’s exactly why I’m asking!

When do you choose to use the screw
versus a faceplate?

I’ll be cutting a split log into a round blank on the bandsaw and then turning it into a bowl. I have several pieces to practice on, so I’d really appreciate some guidance on when it’s best to use each method.

Thanks in advance for your advice and suggestions!
View attachment 86328

Depends on the wood and what I'm going to do. Noticed a crack running from the faceplate. Might come into play with a screw.

When I use a woodworm screw, I first begin with the tailstock in place and make a tenon the size for one of my chucks. This way, there will always be a way to finish the bowl just in case the threads pull out of the woodworm screw. Finish turning the outside of the bowl, and finish it with beeswax or a mixture of beeswax and walnut oil. This way it won't dry too fast as you turn the inside of it. For an instructional video, look up Richard Raffan on YouTube. You may also choose to core out the inside to do two or more bowls from one blank. It's a way to keep the amount of shavings you make down. Play with it and see if you like these discussed methods. Stay Sharp, wear protection, and keep Turning! ️

 

[John Torchick]

Question to experienced turners- Would the size, diameter and weight of a blank be a factor?

 

[Alan Weinberg]

Question to experienced turners- Would the size, diameter and weight of a blank be a factor?

Yes. But most stuff can be turned between centers which allows adjustment to get best grain alignment. I started w face plates, then screw, now almost exclusively between centered, now 3 years in.

 

[Gary Beasley]

I use a faceplate on a heavy blank when roughing. I especially use it when I set up my coring jig. I cut my tenon and leave the faceplate on during the coring session and use it for putting a tenon on the cored section. I always start coring with my biggest size and work down so this is handy.