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Favorite chuck/jaws for large blank coring

Joined
Jun 20, 2025
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In reading another thread discussing jaws I wondered what other’s favorite chucks/jaws are for coring really large blanks.

I have the Nova Titan with deep grip jaws - they expand to about 5 1/2” but at that expanded width it is not an ideal hold since the jaws are opened so wide. I have used them many times for 18-22” bowl blanks without problem but recently had an issue. I was coring a 23” very wet blank that was a bit deeper than I’ve ever done before (about 14-15”) and the strain must have been too much as the edges of my tenon kind of crumpled or broke down when I was making the last and largest core, causing the piece to come a little loose and wobble and I had to redo the tenon and take down a lot of the depth of the blank.

For the first two smaller cores I had tailstock support using an extension, but for the largest core it wouldn’t reach the bottom of the second to largest bowl due to the blank depth. I usually core from smallest to largest so that I don’t have to remount but maybe in the future I should just core the largest first then put a tenon on it and remount it to do the smaller blanks. That would let me keep tailstock support the whole time but is a bit inefficient.

While it could have just been the wood (cottonwood which is relatively soft) combined with the heaviness due to it being super wet with a large and deep blank, I wondered if a larger chuck would have helped, maybe with a 6” tenon where the jaws were closed enough for optimal holding.

I was looking at the Vicmarc site and they have dovetail jaws for the VM150 chuck that measure at 4.9”, 5.9”, 6.9”, and 7.9” when optimally closed. I only have Nova chucks now and wanted to avoid the expense of another chuck and different brand but maybe for coring it’s worth getting a Vicmarc as I don’t see anything larger for the Nova Titan than what I have.

I’m curious what others use for coring really large blanks or other advice on how to avoid similar failures.

Thanks, Tom
 
I routinely core largest to smallest. When I make the starting blank I use a faceplate. I leave that in place when I turn the blank around to core, its good for keeping the tailstock extension in place. After the core is out it is quick to mount it up and cut the new tenon for making the next bowl.
It would be nice to have a tenon cutter that will mount where the coring cutters go though.
 
I usually core from smallest to largest so that I don’t have to remount but maybe in the future I should just core the largest first then put a tenon on it and remount it to do the smaller blanks.
I watched Chris Ramsey turn a cowboy hat. He shaped the outside of the blank then used a straight tool to take off an outside ring he saved to dry and later make a round frame. (Removing this gave a head start on turning the hat rim.) Looks like the blank was first mounted on a faceplate, held at first at the tailstock before reversing to finish the turning.
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Of course I'm not suggesting you work this way when coring but maybe his sequence could be food for thought.
Almost everyone I've watched turn large pieces for anything held the work with a faceplate. Can be stronger than chuck jaws even if the wood is not perfect.

JKJ
 
Largest cores I can do are ~ 14” from a ~15-1/2”bowl, smaller than your application, but I use Oneway Stronghold #5 aluminum profiled jaws that hold well fully expanded at ~6-1/4”.

Did you have the tenon as long as possible w/o bottoming - helps with soft wood and might do the job.

A faceplate could always be used.

Looking at nova’s site I found 2 jaw sets that look to be bigger:


 
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