, you have frequently mentioned that you use Fiebing's Leather Dye in the USMC Black color to ebonize wood. I was wondering if you could go into some detail on the application and limitations of the product. For example,: How do you apply it? How well does it work on light woods like maple? Can it be overcoated with wipe on finishes, or do the solvents re-dissolve the dye? If you have the time, I'd welcome hearing whatever details you care to share. I have a project that I'm about to begin and I'm thinking of using this dye to ebonize the maple.
I use feibings usmc black.
it has turned every wood I have used it on black.
it has a shelf life of years. Easy to use. treat it like any finish Safety wise. I wear nitrile gloves, safety glasses with side panels, and have a fan blowing. I’ve gotten it on my fingers a few times being careless with the used brush or putting the cap on the bottle after taking off the gloves. Rinsed with water no I’ll affects.
I apply it with a disposable foam brush. One coat does it. I get The whole surface wet. It dries quickly
i have always let it dry overnight before applying a finish.
I have used several finishes over the dyed wood.
waterlox a lot, occasionally others like odies oil, krylon type clear finishes, Watco
this is waterlox over a dyed citrus which was whitish.
I got poor results in two applications.
1. I airbrushed it over sandblast resist to blacken the sandblasted background. I got tiny bits of bleeding under the resist.
black airbrush paint works better since it doesn’t wick under the mask if it isn’t tight.
2. I used it to blacken the inside of some hollow forms. It didn’t bleed through but it did darken the outside a bit. I use
Black airbrush for this now.
cherry was airbrushed with leather dye see the bleeding on kokapeli‘s headdress
Cherry with black air brush paint