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I'm looking for a finish for a maple bowl that will not yellow the crisp white I have now. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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finish for maple
- Thread starter gary hawley
- Start date
a clear paste wax
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
Or a clear waterbased finish.
Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic
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To some degree all finishes add color or tone to the wood. The product that adds the least is water based lacquer.
Last edited:
maple finish
Those are all good suggestions for clearest possible finish. A key factor is the bowl use. If strictly in the gallery, anything is fine. I want three things with maple: 1) highlight the figure, curly grain, etc. 2) give natural look and feel and 3) if bowl will be used, give a more durable finish certainly than Krylon. I follow what Jimmy Clewes does--apply a light (underscore light) coat of sanding sealer like Zinsser product with alcohol/shellac base usually on the lathe. It does bring out the grain but adds much less color than applying an oil or varnish directly. Then follow with a salad bowl finish like General Finishes if that is the use. Some tung oil formulations are lighter than others and give a very good finish on top of the sanding sealer with much less darkening but good grain highlighting. The exterior water based poly contains a top UV filter I have used very successfully on box elder to preserve the color and give no darkening but not for bowls seriously used or where the grain needs to be highlighted.
Those are all good suggestions for clearest possible finish. A key factor is the bowl use. If strictly in the gallery, anything is fine. I want three things with maple: 1) highlight the figure, curly grain, etc. 2) give natural look and feel and 3) if bowl will be used, give a more durable finish certainly than Krylon. I follow what Jimmy Clewes does--apply a light (underscore light) coat of sanding sealer like Zinsser product with alcohol/shellac base usually on the lathe. It does bring out the grain but adds much less color than applying an oil or varnish directly. Then follow with a salad bowl finish like General Finishes if that is the use. Some tung oil formulations are lighter than others and give a very good finish on top of the sanding sealer with much less darkening but good grain highlighting. The exterior water based poly contains a top UV filter I have used very successfully on box elder to preserve the color and give no darkening but not for bowls seriously used or where the grain needs to be highlighted.
Maple
How about a dye? Spice it up a little! Green,Red, Yellow get ready for holidays! G
How about a dye? Spice it up a little! Green,Red, Yellow get ready for holidays! G
Try some nitrocellulose sanding sealer that has had the sterates settled out and then buff with carnuba wax. Or bleach the wood and then finish.
Aaron
Aaron
Using Deft lacquer
I've done a number of pieces of very light ambrosia maple. In order to retain the contrast between the ambrosia gray/green stains, and keep the maple as light as possible I've used Deft lacquer. I first apply a heavy coat of Deft mixed 50/50 with lacquer thinner. After covering the piece rapidly, I then wipe off all the excess finish and allow it to dry overnight. This acts as a sealer. From there I build up at least 3 or 4 coats of spray semi-gloss Deft.
Dale
I've done a number of pieces of very light ambrosia maple. In order to retain the contrast between the ambrosia gray/green stains, and keep the maple as light as possible I've used Deft lacquer. I first apply a heavy coat of Deft mixed 50/50 with lacquer thinner. After covering the piece rapidly, I then wipe off all the excess finish and allow it to dry overnight. This acts as a sealer. From there I build up at least 3 or 4 coats of spray semi-gloss Deft.
Dale
A sealer such as Myland's works well and then I use Mylands Friction Polish to retain the clarity of the maple. Also if you are doing a piece that's fairly smooth and you're feeling adventurous, I suggest using a block of paraffin directly applied to the rotating bowl. Then buff on the lathe with a soft cloth.