Finish over Dyes

[William Rogers]

What type of of finish do you apply over dyes. I have always just used spray lacquer as I was concerned an oil finish might cause the dye to smear. I mainly use Pitt Artist Pens, India ink, an Transtint dye. I would like to use tung oil or Danish oil.

 

[Tom Gall]

I usually use a light coat(s) of Krylon Matte Finish on any colored pieces. Also available in gloss and several other sheens. Put "Krylon" in the Blick search box for other options.
Krylon

 

[Richard Coers]

Depends on the solvent of the dye

 

[Bill Blasic]

I always use lacquer.

 

[hockenbery]

What type of of finish do you apply over dyes. I have always just used spray lacquer as I was concerned an oil finish might cause the dye to smear. I mainly use Pitt Artist Pens, India ink, an Transtint dye. I would like to use tung oil or Danish oil.

I often use Waterlox. I’m careful to do the apply the first coat lightly and wipe off the excess lightly with minimal rubbing.
If you do a heavy coat the pigments can float up into the Waterlox so you get a slight hazy look to the color.
A first Thin coat works nicely.

 

[Roger Wiegand]

Over transtint I've used a very wide variety of finishes without any problems. Waterlox to polyurethane to shellac to water-based finishes.

 

[Bill Alston]

I’ve used Cellulose sanding sealer over spirit dyes but it seems best applied carefully with a brush, as it can lift some of the stain. Spray lacquer would probably be a better idea. I’m wondering if I should try water based stains?

 

[Randy Heinemann]

I'm sure lacquer is a great finish, but most who use lacquer have more adequate areas just for spraying. I don't so I generally don't spray finishes. I have used most finishes over dye on my bowls that I would use on any piece of furniture, stained or unstained. It has never given a bad result whether the dye is water based or aclcohol based as long as it is completely dry. Once it's dry, I believe dye would be just like any other coloring on wood. The solvent is essentially gone once the dye is really dry, so I don't see why it should matter.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

As long as you do not start with heavy coats which would run any finish should work. Must be careful of touching the piece as the solvent in some finishes will redisolve the dye and any touch is almost impossible to repair. All that said I prefer lacquer sprayed as brush on or wipe on induces the problem I just addressed.

 

[William Rogers]

Thanks for all the suggestions. My initial thought was that the Copic markers were somewhat recommended/used to use for basket ilusion pieces. My understanding is the Copic markers are alcohol based, thererore my concern about finish. In the past I have used the Pitt Artest pens that come in limited colors and wanted to have more selection of colors. Those pens have archival (India) ink and you can use just about anything once the pigment is throughly dry. If I were to use the Copic pens I did find Krylon Kamar Varnish should first be applied and followed with Krylon Archival spray.
Sakura Pigma Micron Pens are similar to the Pitt Artist pens and have pigmented ink. These are the pens I have decided to use as they come in multiple colors and tips. I can use just about any finish over them and being pigmented based they will br resistant to fading. Obviously Copic pens are high quality, but not sure why they would be a good choice for basket illusion. Am I missing something?

 

[Holmes Anderson]

Shellac, lacquer, poly, varnish, oil, etc. I select a dye for the wood that dissolves in a different solvent than the finish so the finish doesn't re-dissolve the dye and spread it unevenly. Then I use a dye that dissolves in the same solvent as the finish if I want to tint the finish. I have also used Japan color and pigment stains between coats of film finishes. I always HVLP spray NGR dye because it blotches if applied with rags or brush but water based dye can be applied with rags or brush and wiped off quickly. Any pooling will show up like a bathtub ring. If I used markers, then I wouldn't use one with ink that would redissolve in the solvent of the finish. A wash coat of different solvent based finish would probably solve the problem if you want to use ink and finish based on the same solvent.