Resins, as in oil based poly or nonpoly varnish (almost impossible to find today), will penetrate and cure similar to oil. It just needs to be thinned. Most of the otc danish oil is thinned long oil varnish, some with poly some other resins.
Bingo!
I avoid non-stick coatings as much as possible, even though the newer ones are claimed to be safe.
The best food safe non -stick coating is a well-seasoned cast iron pan/pot/skillet/griddle.. Still have my great grandmother's cast iron skillet and we use it regularly... 100 years of seasoning and care, works better than any non stick pan I ever used.
Agreed, from what I’ve read cast iron and glass are the safest cooking vessels.
Back on topic. I’m always on the look out for a good finish. I wouldn’t normally use this type of product due to the, in some cases, eye watering cost of them over here. The number one product in the conclusion of that video is not too badly priced though. I’m a bit disappointed though that some seem to apply this product over sanding sealer, which seems to me to defeat the object? What do others think. I’d like to try this stuff and apply it on bare wood. I can get the semi gloss version of Fiddes locally. I’d appreciate your thoughts.
Since I've had that happen to me before with light woods, and also having oil-free #0000 imbed itself into the open grain of an ash bowl, I've boycotted steel wool from contact with bare wood, and from nearly all finishing steps as well. The last step of my sanding procedure now is to grab a big handful of shavings (no bark or really thick/course shavings) and burnish the surface of the wood with the same pressure as I hold sandpaper to the wood.
I use Tried and True extensively. For some time I used oil free steel wool and didn't really have any problems until I used it on a piece of ash. Little bits of the steel wool embedded in the open grain. Now I use either a gray or white non-abrasive (Scotchbrite) pad and don’t have any problems.
This is why other supposed “unsafe” finishes like blo, poly, lacquer, etc are considered food safe after curing. The metallic driers etc are encapsulated in plastic and unavailable.
You’re cherry picking. He said plastic-like material, not plastic.
I'll frequently use bare fingers to rub in a tiny fingertip-dip on small areas, such as bottom of bowl/foot after finish turning the bottom plus signature, but usually I have a small (3" x 3") bit of clean white cotton (old t-shirt, etc) that I keep in a 4 Oz Jelly jar with just about half the jar filled with a few tablespoonfuls of T&T Original (The rest stored in the original can which I store upside down- Lid down) The application needs to be quite thin (The bit of rag is stored in the jar, when I go to use it, I fish the rag out and then squeeze off all excess - Since it's just linseed oil and beeswax, I usually do it bare handed - Softens the hands is a fringe benefit - what's left on the rag is pretty much just a saturated rag with no drips , and it is enough to give a rub-in first coat on a 6 inch bowl inside and outside - Used properly, the stuff will last a LONG time because you use so little at a time (I just emptied out my original pint can of T&T original last month, the pint can has lasted me nearly 2 years plus) The coats you apply need to be so thin that it's just a slightly greasy feel to the wood and you should not be able to squeeze any excess off with a finger - That coat needs to sit for the hour, then you wipe it down with a clean cloth (Until it almost feels dry to the touch) , give it a couple hours more before next coat is applied.. final coat can be buffed/polished by hand or with a buffing pad after a day or two of cure time, but it can be several weeks or months for a full cure (If it sits in the sun, it can weep oil out the wood pores, if it isn't fully cured) - I can get a fairly decent semi-gloss finish on 5-6 coats (but that does take a week or two) and a final buffing - T&T is an excellent food safe finish, but it is NOT something for the impatient that want a quick finish ready in a day or two.
Hi Karl, I use all three Tried and True versions, and the Original version, the oil and beeswax, can seem sticky due to the wax. Heed the warning sticker on top the cans and apply very light, thin coats. Light enough that you see the sudden change in grain color, but you're still wondering if you are putting any on. It should barely look wet on top. Barely, no standing oil. This is not a flooding finish. Wait the prescribed time on the label, then wipe it down with old cotton tee shirt or, as I usually do, paper towel (how I apply it, too). And then wipe some more, and wipe, wipe, wipe... A warmer environment will help the curing. Then I put the rag in a 2 gallon steel bucket and burn it out in my driveway.