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finishing cherry

To do what?

Shine but not work - shellac.

Shine and do some dry holding - varnish.

Not shine, but glow, not use - burnish, dilute oil and a buff to be named later

Not shine but use - dilute varnish or "Danish" oil.

Use for salad or popcorn, where their oil will be the final "finish" - walnut oil.

You may use tung if you like, but I can't stand the stink.
 
Jake,
I love to see a good shine on cherry. I use a few coats of 50-50 mix of semi gloss varnish and thinner. Let dry a day and then put one pure coat on of varnish and the let set a day and buff with the Beal system, WHAT A SHINE- I just love it, you can see your face in the finish.
I use to just oil them but got addicted to the gloss of varnish.
 
Don't know where you got your tung oil MM, but either Waterlox or MinWax smells about the same as varnish or shellac. Even the completely natural unadulterated tung oil I've used from The Real Milk Paint Co. has only a nutty odor. On top of that, it's waterproof and so durable it's used on floors. I use it on all my utility pieces.
 
Jake Truxal said:
What about Polyurethane?
Click to expand...

Yes. Spray on a lazy Susan, or with a rotisserie drive on your lathe (to reduce runs). Probably satin or semi-gloss. You'll probably want to experiment to find the one (or more) "best" finish(es) you like anyway.

If the results are less than perfect, you can polish polyurethane with EEE, and add wax afterwards. BTDT.
 
Joe Greiner said:
Yes. Spray on a lazy Susan, or with a rotisserie drive on your lathe (to reduce runs). Probably satin or semi-gloss. You'll probably want to experiment to find the one (or more) "best" finish(es) you like anyway.

If the results are less than perfect, you can polish polyurethane with EEE, and add wax afterwards. BTDT.
Click to expand...

Urethane is a resin, Jake. Resins, solvents and vehicles make varnish. Alkyd or phenolic are also pretty common. Toughens the curing oil so it won't mark.

Might want to add the caution, Joe, that use of satin or semi-gloss formulations gives a softer film than gloss. Lots of people like the toughness and transparency of a gloss, but cut back the surface reflection with abrasive buffs or wax. Remember the 0000 steel wool types? If you want the light to scatter inside the film and obscure some faults, go semi.

Turntable is the way to go whether you spray or wipe. There are NO lazy Susans in my house. ;)
 
i use Barbara Gill's Velvit Oil, good stuff
 
If the piece is worthy, full on, high build, deep gloss lacquer finish, sanded level through 12,000 and buffed to 1/2 wavelength. Or maybe not.
 
Jake,
I apologize. I was being goofier than usual. The term refers to 1/2 wavelength of light, and is (or used to be years ago) a measure of the quality of polish on optical mirrors used in large telescopes. Actually have forgotten most of what I used to know about that stuff 2/3 lifetime ago. I just meant a smooth and level surface, buffed to a high gloss. Am among the minority who like a glass-like high gloss finish.
 
Texian said:
Jake,
I apologize. I was being goofier than usual. The term refers to 1/2 wavelength of light, and is (or used to be years ago) a measure of the quality of polish on optical mirrors used in large telescopes. ....
Click to expand...

Actually a 1/2 wave sux, 1/8 is better :D

But I was wondering how you were using that term for wood finish
 
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