Finishing wood that has been textured?

[Jesse Tutterrow]

My favorite finish is 1.5# shellac (super blonde if it matters) followed by yorkshire grit and friction. I am starting to get into texturing (knurling and chatter) and am concerned about the Yorkshire grit building up in the texture.

I tried a piece of walnut sanded to 400, shellacked, knurled, and then the Yorkshire grit with a paper towel. There was buildup in the texture from (I think) the paper towel, which mostly blew away with the air compressor.

What is a better way of getting this style of finish on knurled or chattered pieces?

 

[Owen Lowe]

Not having any experience with Yorkshire grit so may be off-base. What sprung to mind when reading your post was to use a moderately stiff brush - (toothbrush?) to clear the grit from the bottom of the texture.

 

[Jesse Tutterrow]

Yorkshire grit is a competitor for EEE Ultra Shine. It seems to be a soft wax with Rottenstone or Pumice Stone mixed in probably with some solvent.

A toothbrush may help. I will give it a try. I am sure that somewhere I have kept a old toothbrush ;-)

 

[Bill Boehme]

I think that a high solids gloss lacquer finish followed by 0000 steel wool if you want to knock the gloss down a bit. Wait several days before using the steel wool.

 

[Jesse Tutterrow]

I think that a high solids gloss lacquer finish followed by 0000 steel wool if you want to knock the gloss down a bit. Wait several days before using the steel wool.

So texture, apply lacquer and after a few days use steel wool? Would not the steel wool particles get into the texturing?

 

[hockenbery]

I use Waterlox. Wipe on wipe off. Let dry

any recesses grooves, deep texture, i hit with compressed air and wipe again.
This gets any extra Waterlox out of the grooves and texture. If a little extra collects in a recess it will make a shiny spot.

consider milk paint.
great effects can be achieved with milk paint.
Different colors cut back can make the texture pop showing bare wood and the colors of the milk paint.
Also woods like mahogany and cherry react with the milk paint And turn a bronze color.
Milk paint can be a finish or add a few coats of Waterlox.

 

[john lucas]

I use wipe on poly and apply it with a small.brush or cotton cloth. Then i will buff with the Beale but my wheels have almost no wax on them.

 

[Tom Gall]

My favorite finish is 1.5# shellac (super blonde if it matters) followed by yorkshire grit and friction. I am starting to get into texturing (knurling and chatter) and am concerned about the Yorkshire grit building up in the texture.

I tried a piece of walnut sanded to 400, shellacked, knurled, and then the Yorkshire grit with a paper towel. There was buildup in the texture from (I think) the paper towel, which mostly blew away with the air compressor.

What is a better way of getting this style of finish on knurled or chattered pieces?

Try this.....use your finish and Yorkshire grit.....THEN do your decorating texture. A light burnish over the texture with a stick (I usually use a bamboo skewer or similar) will usually lay down any raised fibers if there are any. Then apply your final finish.

 

[RichColvin]

Jesse,

This is a common problem in ornamental turning. The approach I take is one of these:

1. For items to be displayed, lacquer works well. Shellac can also if the wood is not too hard and non-porous (e.g., Ebony, African Blackwood, etc.).
2. For items which will be around water (e.g., an ice cream scoop), I use spar varnish. I don’t like the rubbery/plastic feel, but it protects the wood well.
3. Otherwise, I expect the item to be handled and want the person to enjoy the feel of the decoration and ornamentation. For these, I use Tried & True's Original Wood Finish.

Hope that helps.

Kind regards,
Rich

 

[Doug Freeman]

Steel wool will just get caught by knurling and wrapped around the piece, even if sanded. Other types of texture it just depends on whether the edges created catch it.

I dont use the grit stuff but use toothbrushes and stiffer plastic bristled brushes, after finish is applied, to remove wax and other buildup from texturing. Use brass brushes before finishing. You might try thin tight weave cloth like a bed sheet piece to apply the grit, certainly wont come apart like a paper towel.

Often use semi gloss poly thinned 1:1 and wiped on for textured pieces. Apply like danish oil - flood on, keep wet for 5-10 min, wipe off. Apply 2-3 coats, buff similar to beal system approach. Semi gloss keeps gloss down in negative grain areas. Can do the same with semi gloss spray lacquer.