Just got some fir from the tree removal people on the block. 12 to 15 inches in diameter and the same lengths. Some is rotted . Is fir worth turning for bowls? Any particular quirks to look for?
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Fir as a turning wood
- Thread starter Wayne Spence
- Start date
Wayne, check out the work by Bill Luce http://www.billluce.com/ He's an absolute genius when it comes to turning fir.
Bill's work is impressive. The problem is he uses nothing but old growth, tight ring Doug Fir.
Not something found in most Doug Fir cut in yards today
That being said, use sharp tools and remember, turned Doug Fir burns in the fireplace just as well as un-turned
TTFN
Ralph
Not something found in most Doug Fir cut in yards today
That being said, use sharp tools and remember, turned Doug Fir burns in the fireplace just as well as un-turned
TTFN
Ralph
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Bill Luce's work is impressive. However, having worked with fir lumber for construction and cabinet work, I am not in any great hurry to try turning it. The difference in hardness between early and late wood will make turning it a challenge unless you use that difference to your advantage the way that Bill Luce does. Another disadvantage is that it does not make long lasting coals either. 
Ha ha ha, Bill Luce's bowls have holes in them. Who ever bought them got a shock when they tried to use them 
In all seriousness, Bill's work is very impressive. He is the master with fir.
Greg
In all seriousness, Bill's work is very impressive. He is the master with fir.
Greg
Christmas trees, with a lot of branches, are some of my favorite woods for turning. But not that large, and haven't done any bowls from it yet. Noble Fir is almost the same as Douglas Fir, except for the needles orientation on the branches. See these: http://www.aawforum.org/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=7804
Turned green, it sprays sap everywhere, until I get below the cambium. Then clean tools and the lathe with paint thinner or acetone. I use a spare face shield for the rough turning, to avoid having to clean it.
There's a lot of tearout, but it succumbs to sanding.
Turned green, it sprays sap everywhere, until I get below the cambium. Then clean tools and the lathe with paint thinner or acetone. I use a spare face shield for the rough turning, to avoid having to clean it.
There's a lot of tearout, but it succumbs to sanding.
Russ Fairfield
RIP
The advantage of the close-grain in old growth Douglas Fir is that the differences between doing it right and doing it wrong aren't as pronounced as with the wider growth rings of 2nd growth wood. Most other species of Fir are similar.
Douglas Fir will show you how to use a turning tool, and it is an excellent wood for turning if you do it right. It will give a smooth polished surface when making a good shearing cut with the bevel of the tool on the wood and letting the tool seek its own bite to make a clean shaving. However, when the tool forced into the wood or when the bevel gets off the surface, it will leave the worse surface with the most grain tear-out of any wood. The reason this is important is that it doesn't sand well at all.
Douglas Fir will show you how to use a turning tool, and it is an excellent wood for turning if you do it right. It will give a smooth polished surface when making a good shearing cut with the bevel of the tool on the wood and letting the tool seek its own bite to make a clean shaving. However, when the tool forced into the wood or when the bevel gets off the surface, it will leave the worse surface with the most grain tear-out of any wood. The reason this is important is that it doesn't sand well at all.