• The forum upgrades have been completed. These were moderate security fixes from our software vendor and it looks like everything is working well. If you see any problems please post in the Forum Technical Support forum or email us at forum_moderator (at) aawforum.org. Thank you
  • It's time to cast your vote in the April 2026 Turning Challenge. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Ted Pelfrey for "Cherry Blossoms on Cherry" being selected as Turning of the Week for April 27, 2026 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

First box

Joined
Jan 24, 2010
Messages
3,441
Likes
1,091
Location
Cleveland, Tennessee
Need to tweak for better details when turning. Outside was good; inside walls were a bit rough. Need to work on the interior including the bump at the bottom. I can take criticism...been married for 54 years.
First box.jpg
 
Outside was good; inside walls were a bit rough. Need to work on the interior including the bump at the bottom.

For boxes that have straight walls inside I like to use a box scraper to make them straight after hollowing. Box scrapers often have the long sharp working edge (down the side near the end) ground at a small angle to the axis of the tool and handle which seems easier to handle. Note that the very end is ground at an angle so it's 90-deg to the side cutting edge.

1777591214175.jpeg
I've ground one to have a negative rake edge for easier smoothing. I burnish burrs on all scrapers and negative rake scrapers. These are usually used held flat on the rest, the working edge just above center.

For boxes with either straight or curved insides I usually clean up the inside walls with a spindle gouge or Hunter tool used as a shear scraper. For getting the bottom flat, a square end can help. A bump at the bottom can often be removed with the end square or very gently curved - scraped by hand with the lathe off.

What kind of wood is the darker lid? Are both the lid and body made with dry end-grain blanks? A few species are just plain difficult to smooth so I avoid them.

Maybe it's just the light but from the photo the flat "steps" on the top look like they might be a bit rough. Were they cut from the side with a parting tool? That can leave rough surfaces. With some practice the long point of the skew can make quite smooth "facing" cuts. In general, for me, a surface with some curve to it seems to be easier to turn cleanly and to sand smooth. But I keep a variety of negative rake scrapers to smooth flat surfaces on both end grain and face grain.

A couple of these are helpful when smoothing small flat areas. I ground one from a spare Thompson 3/8" detail gouge. I almost always grind a different profile on the other end - use these without handles. I almost always stick with Thompson steel.
1777593653887.jpeg

JKJ
 
Back
Top