My first hollow form made from gifted Maple Burl. I have been blessed with wonderful mentors that share outstanding knowledge and material! 7.25”w x 4.25”h hollowed through 1.5” opening. Finished with danish oil and Hampshire sheen. The wall is 3/8” thickness.
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Turned to 3/8” thickVery good piece. What thickness did you dare to get to on a first one?
gifted Maple Burl
I'm very fortunate that my mentor has a wide selection of hollow form tools that I could play around with to complete this work. In the end, my preferred tools were the John Jordan 1/2" hollowing set and the Trent Bosch 1/2" radius scraper. I will be purchasing my own set of these tools very soon! I don't have any progress photos, next time!What a generous gift.
Nice piece! Surface and finish look perfect too. It’d be nice to see it in person - from the photos the chatoyance in the wood looks almost deep enough to make you dizzy! (the rate things are going, some day we’ll all have 3D stereo cameras and monitors/glasses to view such pieces)
Did you use handheld tools or a hollowing rig? Have any in-process photos?
JKJ
I'm very fortunate that my mentor has a wide selection of hollow form tools that I could play around with to complete this work. In the end, my preferred tools were the John Jordan 1/2" hollowing set...
JKJ, the world has already been there and done that! (I've not looked for the modern day equivalent.)
I understand the problem with long names and as such I long ago started signing "Don W" versus "Donald Joseph Wattenhofer" or even if I left out the middle name it would still be excessively long. My advice would be to sign "Dan B". The photo below should explain it better then words since that base is about 2" in diameter.You might want to rethink the use of "Berg" as your signature (I assume that's what it is). I realize that "Blankenberg" (or Dan or D.----) is longer to write/engrave/etc., but if you're proud of your work you should use your name. Just my 2¢.![]()
I understand, and I'm lucky to have a short name in that regard. But there is plenty of room on your example if you use the center for the date and/or inventory number. "Don W." --- there are a million Don's (or Dan's). "D. Wattenhofer" --- a lot fewer for sure! Besides, a few years (or months) down the road only you will know who made that piece ..... maybe - (depending on your age) !!!I understand the problem with long names and as such I long ago started signing "Don W" versus "Donald Joseph Wattenhofer" or even if I left out the middle name it would still be excessively long. My advice would be to sign "Dan B". The photo below should explain it better then words since that base is about 2" in diameter.View attachment 70705
The MIcron pens are what we use too - got a set with assorted sizes. The pigment ink is fantastic, doesn't fade. If I have some dried oil finish already on the piece, I just brush it lightly with 0000 steel wool, write, then when dry apply more oil finish on top. Or sometimes just write on top the finish - seems to work ok.I've taken to just using my initials- SMT, and the species of the wood, and the 4-digit year. I use a very fine point permanent/archival ink pen to write on the bare wood, give it a couple minutes to make sure it's dry, then oil over the top of it.
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Thanks so much, Leo! Hope your staying warm!Blankenberg is a wonderful name Dan, don't shrimp on it, be proud of it !!
I sign my pieces with my name (Leo Van Der Loo) and have learned to write real small if needed. I hope.
As I am 1000 miles from my home (in Ottawa) I had to take these pictures from the forum, but you can see that I was able to write in odd places and real small with a pyrography burner, they stay forever.
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Oh I'm still drooling over your wonderful hollow form, beautiful !
So, it's true, Leo--you're going to take Trudeau's place! (How's your French?)As I am 1000 miles from my home (I'm in Ottawa) I had to take these pictures from the forum, but you can see that I was able to write in odd places and real small with a pyrography burner, they stay forever.