Even wall thickness and flowing curves reduces ( virtually eliminates) cracking.Seems to be a dichotomous question for hollow forms. Some say once turned reduces cracking and some say twice turned does.
In medicine we move patients using Hoyer lifts. Could something like that be adapted?I may have to do a beam.
Thanks for shedding some light on this!As to lights I got a flex neck flashlight and it is very effective for checking inside a hollowform. It would be very easy to tape it to a tool rest to get light inside.
Streamlight Flex neck
Those work great. We have several with small & bright LEDs on a flex shaft.As to lights I got a flex neck flashlight and it is very effective for checking inside a hollowform.
Ditto regarding John. I've spent a lot of time taking notes on the phone with John.Steve, I moved into hollow forms and then large ones a little over a year ago. It's been a lot of fun, challenging and now it's my primary focus. Still do smaller forms, natural edge bowls, etc for local markets and online sales but not near the volume as I once turned. The primary challenge with large hollow forms, 20" to 30" I would say, is that there aren't very many people that even do pieces that size (one of the reasons I like doing them) and the methods and tools can be a challenge to work through. Very different set of requirements, tools and steps in turning a 30" hollow form than a 15" hollow form. First, the log can weigh 150-200 lbs so moving it around, getting it mounted, can your lathe spin it, shaping it, the list goes on. Happy to share my learnings and experience with you as you move along. Most all of what I know and the steps I follow I got from John Tisdale. Without his help I would have likely given up early on. Here's a 26" black cherry I just finished over the weekend. I have another 35" raw log standing here by me in the shop ready to start the journey. Just need to get my mojo going for the heavy up front work.
I hade a McEvoy system replicated and just today I finally got the light to work. I started with a 120 v light and encased it in resin. TOO HOT melted the resin. Got a LED light from Walmart, $4.50 and a wiring harness from NAPA, alligator clips from Ace and wire I had around home and came up with a light to attach to the end of the deep boring bar. Haven't tried it yet to test the thickness of the vessel I'm turning, but stay tuned! Hopefully tomorrow I will get a chance.
Very nice. Please share the plugs, connectors you come up with the gang the led and connect to power.I ordered a pack of 10 small (5/8" x 1") LED arrays on Amazon. I have a bunch of old cordless phone charge cords that should power them, and with some tiny magnets on the back, they can stick to a tool rest or boring bar, or wherever I need some extra light.
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