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For those that make a lot of boxes….

Joined
May 30, 2022
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Location
Belchertown, MA
Do you find a box tool rest to be especially helpful?

I’m starting to make boxes for Beads Of Courage (6”dia x 5”deep). I also make bluebird houses that are 5”dia x 6”deep. I can get most of the hole hollowed out ok, but am having trouble getting straight sides that deep. I’m using a hunter badger for the final shaping. I don’t have a hollowing rig or box style tool rest.

I’m considering getting a box tool rest, but don’t want to spend the $ unless I’m sure it will help.

What do you use for deep straight side boxes?
 
I've turned a fair number of boxes. Not a ton, but enough that, I did end up getting a box tool rest. I find it helpful when trying to clean up the bottom of the box. A forstner, even when quite sharp, will usually not leave a nice bottom once you reach the desired depth, and a forstner is only an option for the central core of the box...if its a wider diameter, you still need to hollow out a fair amount of wood. I tend to hollow in steps...outer portion, center to edge, then go a bit deeper center to edge, etc. etc. until I'm all the way down. Controlling tools 3-5" deep from the tool rest can be difficult, so getting a nice clean finish that way is also difficult. A box rest just fits right inside the box, and can extend support another few inches. Even with a scraper vs. a gouge for final cleanup of the bottom, the added support is helpful in controlling your scraping to clean up the bottom.

My greatest challenge with deeper boxes, is the corner where a flat bottom meets the side walls. Even with a box rest, I always have trouble there. Its been recommended to me that I allow the transition from side to bottom to be curved, which would certainly take care of that problem. I suspect a box rest would be quite helpful in achieving that.

You mention strait sides. Have you ever used a box scraper? They have a very specific design, with a side for scraping the walls, and a flat tip for scraping the bottom. You angle the tool differently for bottom vs. sides. Even with this tool, I still have trouble with that corner, but it is a handy tool for getting nice strait box sides:


I have one of these and its helpful. Treat it like any other scraper...it needs a good burr. On both edges.
 
I have two box rests, one from Robust and one from Best Wood Tools. They are SO useful at times. I also use several box scrapers made especially for straight sides.

However, an observation. I wonder if Beads Of Courage boxes are more useful to the kids if shorter and wide rather than tall and perhaps deeper straight-sided boxes. For one thing, squatter boxes might be easier to reach into go get out strings of beads.

By far, the easiest method I’ve used is an expansion on the way I saw Harvey Meyer turn them. He used two kiln-dried thick layers and another for the lid. I found that the proportions of three layers were better to my eye. For example, all those shown here except for the taller one made from a solid poplar blank (with a music box in the lid).

BOC_COMP.jpg

Looking at the one at the bottom left, it is walnut, and cherry. The three 2” thick sections are mostly pre-turned before they are glued together, leaving only a thin “web” on the top and middle ones, and turning inside of the bottom one before the glueup. Then I mount the stack and cut through the webs from the top. From there, finishing up the inside is FAR quicker and easier than hollowing out all that dry wood.

In fact, for one demo, I not only turned the bowl shape in the bottom but smoothed, sanded, and applied finish before the glue up. To start the demo I mounted the stack, quickly cut through the thin “webs” on the top to layers, then passed around the mostly hollowed piece with the bottom smooth and finished. Believe me, this saves a LOT of time and effort.

Also, I’ve gone to tapered fits on the lids after seeing a bunch of BOC boxes at a symposium with MOST of the lids were stuck. The guy at our club who took BOC boxes to the children’s hospital told me he had to fix the lids on about half of all those turned in. A tapered fit is easy for the kids to remove, falls into place when put back on the box, and can’t possibly stick.

Note that boxes made from lumber like this are almost always face grain and will undergo seasonal dimensional changes. The taper on the lid really helps with that.

In fact, I like the tapered fit so much I started using it on almost all turned boxes. I’ve banished the “woodturners bragging rights pop fit” from my shop except for little boxes meant to be carried in the pocket without risk of the lid coming off.

I never wrote a document on all this but I do have the simple drawings I used at demos and as handouts.

JKJ
 
Hi Mike, I’m actually working on a Beads of courage box now and I did use my Elbo2 and box rest to get the sides done. See you at the next meeting.

Paul
 

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I own a Robust box tool rest. Love it. I do not make a huge number of boxes, but, like this rest as it fits inside most boxes. More support deeper inside the box for the tool. Less vibration. Better cuts.
 
I don't use a box rest for either Beads of Courage boxes or lidded boxes. I find turning the rest parallel to the BOC boxes side walls makes a similar concept to a box rest. My regular lidded boxes are small enough that I can just hang over the rest with the tool.
 
I’ve got a Robust box rest, but seldom use it. I make a fair amount of smaller salt/spice vaults or pigs and keep the sides straight with a box scraper as I go down the wall. Bottoms get the Hunter Osprey. I prefer the side/bottom transition to be curved rather than sharply square. I find it easier to get that last pitch of salt if it’s roughly the same curve of my fingers.
 

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I have wanted a box rest for 10 years, and a couple years ago came into one. Haven't used it yet. Instead, I've learned to use simple hollowing tools when I have to go farther than my Hunter badger will go.
 
I’ve got a Robust box rest, but seldom use it. I make a fair amount of smaller salt/spice vaults or pigs and keep the sides straight with a box scraper as I go down the wall. Bottoms get the Hunter Osprey. I prefer the side/bottom transition to be curved rather than sharply square. I find it easier to get that last pitch of salt if it’s roughly the same curve of my fingers.

Quick Q. The carving on the outside of the salt reservoir. Was that hand carved? I really like the look of that. I've been trying my hand at doing some simple carving, on box lids and platters, been wanting to expand to vessels, bowls, and other things. I've kept it simple so far, just little randomly placed, lightly overlapping round divots for texture. I like the little rills you've got going there though.
 
Not as useful as it seems it should be because the post-end of the rest interferes with the handle of the tool you are using so the shaft length of the tool limits depth of work rather than how far the rest extends into the box.
 
I've always wanted one and keep saying that, but after 34 years of turning without one I still wonder if I need one. Most boxes I make now are smaller in size (2-3") and really don't require such a rest as this. I also now exclusively make rounded bottoms since the people that actually use these boxes always comment on how much easier it is to remove little thing from the boxes with rounded bottoms. Just my 2¢
 
As mentioned, I have both the Robust and BWT box rests. The roll pin on the Robust gets in the way sometimes but it can be driven out and replaced if needed. The Robust I have is wider than the BWT.

I do put the tool rest into a box or other turning at times, but the flat top of the box rest is great for using NRS and other scrapers on the inside, including shear scraping with the wing of a gouge.

JKJ
 
@John K Jordan, I’m trying to make something like The Hunny pot from Winnie the Pooh. Inspired by your “jack” pot. In addition to the inside, I’m having trouble getting the outside form right.

IMG_0437.jpeg

@Gabriel Hoff , sounds like you are using your regular rest like a box rest. I’m guessing you have either a rod style or Oneway style rest? Mine are Robust and they don’t fit inside.

@Paul Lajoie , nice setup. I have been eyeing the Elbo, but can’t justify it, as I don’t do hollow forms. Your donut chuck is pretty slick!
 
Quick Q. The carving on the outside of the salt reservoir. Was that hand carved? I really like the look of that. I've been trying my hand at doing some simple carving, on box lids and platters, been wanting to expand to vessels, bowls, and other things. I've kept it simple so far, just little randomly placed, lightly overlapping round divots for texture. I like the little rills you've got going there though.
I use a reciprocal carver handpiece with a small veining tool. It’s a cheap one made by Weecher; runs off a flex shaft - been going strong for many years.
 
I mostly turn smaller threaded boxes, and for them, I use the case hardened box rest from D Way. I have done some that are in the 5 inch diameter range and maybe 10 inches deep. Can't remember what I used, but it may have been the standard straight rest and long shafted tools or hollowing tools. I have seen some flat plate type tool rests, like an inch or two wide and several inches deep, and they appear to be made for laying your tools flat on them which would require longer tools.

robo hippy
 
Personally I've never seen the need for a box rest. I have no problems keeping the scraper flat enough to get the job done on a traditional rest. So maybe tool control is the same as having a box rest?
 
My conclusion from this discussion is I don’t absolutely need a box rest, but I do need one that will fit deeper into the box. I’m looking at the bar style rests from Best Wood Tools.
 
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