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Fostner Bit Recommendation

E

Ed Weingarden

Joined
Mar 17, 2006
Messages
258
Likes
123
Location
Canton, Connecticut
I need a 1 1/16" fostner bit for drilling salt/pepper grinder blanks. Do the carbide bits stay sharp for longer than the steel bits? What are you using that you find to be sharp, durable, and long lasting? Thanks.
 
Ed Weingarden said:
I need a 1 1/16" fostner bit for drilling salt/pepper grinder blanks. Do the carbide bits stay sharp for longer than the steel bits? What are you using that you find to be sharp, durable, and long lasting? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Famag bits are what I use. They are German made and have a unique edge to reduce friction. Take a look......
taytools.com

Famag Bormax 2.0 Forstner Bits Imperial Sizes 5/16" to 2-1/8" Individual Bits

These Famag Bormax forstner drill bits are the finest in the world. They drill the cleanest and fastest holes with the best chip ejection, generate the least amount of heat, require less toque and downward pressure and stay sharper longer than any other brand. They are made by Famag, a German...
taytools.com taytools.com
 
Gabriel Hoff said:
Famag bits are what I use. They are German made and have a unique edge to reduce friction. Take a look......
taytools.com

Famag Bormax 2.0 Forstner Bits Imperial Sizes 5/16" to 2-1/8" Individual Bits

These Famag Bormax forstner drill bits are the finest in the world. They drill the cleanest and fastest holes with the best chip ejection, generate the least amount of heat, require less toque and downward pressure and stay sharper longer than any other brand. They are made by Famag, a German...
taytools.com taytools.com
Click to expand...
Thanks for this. Every time I drill on the lathe, wished there was something better.
 
I'm glad they will work for you guys. What I really like is the wide range of sizes, I know @Richard Coers said you could not find one at 1 1/16" but these are one of the limited offerings that actually do have that size and also 2"!
 
27mm also works ok, it's so close you'll never notice a difference. The small round disc with the square hole for the drive shaft is 22mm.
 
Woodturnings carries the Colt drills, and extensions. I've been happy with them.

Colt Peppermill Boring Set - WoodTurningz

This kit combines the necessary tools to bore a precise hole through the center of a pepper mill body right on the lathe. COLT MaxiCut combines the advantages of a forstner bit with those of a boring bit, while the high performance RotaStop shank provides optimum torque. The Colt Peppermill...
www.woodturningz.com www.woodturningz.com
 
Those Famags look amazing.

I bought a set of forstner bits from Woodcraft. They wouldn't cut at all. Returned them for a new set. Still crappy. I ordered a set of 7 Fisch Wave Cutters from Amazon for $125. They are amazing. It's a small-sized set, running from 1/4" to 1". Looks like they are currently unavailable on Amazon.

 
There are many solutions. When faced with that issue, I just drilled using a 1" bit and widened the hole with a turning tool. You don't need to collect specialty tools that will collect "dust". Just how many pepper mills are you making? BTW I use diamond cards to sharpen my bits.
Alternatively, A 65-dollar investment for a mt2 boring headset will cover many woodturning drilling requirements as they come up. example: https://www.amazon.com/Yunnergo-Carbide-Optional-Milling-Machine/dp/B0CLGR2GKT/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3QFMGGTCMYE8Q&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6brT9KgnBFmyN-KbBhrIEY8eyjIQM14hkv9uN5SBHgg1WwxCvghI7OcVpKiB40CmtKkwEhhGwSy1i4B4bVR9xRj7jmhdnj4cgA26bU8MwMDr99ugz8CjByzr_Y4_FKOWnIxonrbKP7GYjSlHaKv0gHpaTagfPet2oDctMUEw3Qe-qRCK_pSQxeILwNrR0pyDXPsGo2c4DI6PGMMHHtEjF3dkEjhWgfow6xxoq_pCr_1FaCX3KQYJOsvPyhvTp8lhnM34xm7YMhACDIx21EglPl2dkFqkR6s78ysSoKkubVQ.HYAJE_tMtXFHxe3sUG6oXioMK1A0T4BxEXzEfbKy1jg&dib_tag=se&keywords=2mt+boring+head&qid=1718373723&s=industrial&sprefix=2mt+boring+head+,industrial,86&sr=1-10&th=1
 
Dennis Weiner said:
There are many solutions. When faced with that issue, I just drilled using a 1" bit and widened the hole with a turning tool. You don't need to collect specialty tools that will collect "dust". Just how many pepper mills are you making? BTW I use diamond cards to sharpen my bits.
Alternatively, A 65-dollar investment for a mt2 boring headset will cover many woodturning drilling requirements as they come up. example: https://www.amazon.com/Yunnergo-Carbide-Optional-Milling-Machine/dp/B0CLGR2GKT/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3QFMGGTCMYE8Q&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6brT9KgnBFmyN-KbBhrIEY8eyjIQM14hkv9uN5SBHgg1WwxCvghI7OcVpKiB40CmtKkwEhhGwSy1i4B4bVR9xRj7jmhdnj4cgA26bU8MwMDr99ugz8CjByzr_Y4_FKOWnIxonrbKP7GYjSlHaKv0gHpaTagfPet2oDctMUEw3Qe-qRCK_pSQxeILwNrR0pyDXPsGo2c4DI6PGMMHHtEjF3dkEjhWgfow6xxoq_pCr_1FaCX3KQYJOsvPyhvTp8lhnM34xm7YMhACDIx21EglPl2dkFqkR6s78ysSoKkubVQ.HYAJE_tMtXFHxe3sUG6oXioMK1A0T4BxEXzEfbKy1jg&dib_tag=se&keywords=2mt+boring+head&qid=1718373723&s=industrial&sprefix=2mt+boring+head+,industrial,86&sr=1-10&th=1
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Yes but a $20.00 or less investment in a carbide bit will collect much less dust and be quicker for the beginning wood turner.
I have had a boring head for about 30 years and often use it on my wood lathe , metal lathe and Bridgeport mill so I can deal with the dust build up.
 
It may not matter, but the definition of Forstner bit seems to have changed. The bits shown used to be called machine spur bits. An old Forstner bit didn't have the teeth around the perimeter. They had a knife edge cutter rather than teeth which might have done a cleaner cut on the back side break through.
 
Ed Weingarden said:
I need a 1 1/16" fostner bit for drilling salt/pepper grinder blanks. Do the carbide bits stay sharp for longer than the steel bits? What are you using that you find to be sharp, durable, and long lasting? Thanks.
Click to expand...
These here are available in the 1 1/16" size.
The standard Forstner drillbit sold by Grainger, I use and sharpen them if when necessary.
bosch forstner drill bit.jpg
Walmart sells this carbide Forstner drillbit, I have not used these, they look like one could sharpen them with a diamond sharpener.
Walmart Forstner carbide drillbit.jpg
 
Thanks for all the feedback. I have also seen a number of the 1 1/16" bits on Amazon. I ordered the Bormax and it won't collect much dust. I make a good number of salt and pepper mills. They're a good seller at shows I do.
 
A decent hardware/tool store should have something in 1 1/16" size. Even our small town Homer Depot has them in stock. If not, Amazon.
 
The tool used in this video is a boring head, normally used for metalwork. It can be used to bore accurate holes of any size you’re likely to need? Of course, if you intend to make dozens of pepper mills a dedicated tool as linked earlier would probably be a better bet.

 
Possibly a handy tool for some given the price? I think I’d prefer HSS tool bits which are available, but provided the carbide ones supplied are nice and sharp they should last a long time.

IMG_0841.jpeg
 
i bought a set of carbide forstner bits from Ted Sokoloski they are all the sizes you need for peppermills, i have used them many times they cut really well and so far are holding their edge, i also bought Sokoloski's video on making peppermills which is very good, the boring head from craft supplies looks pretty cool i might order one of those,
 
Bill Alston said:
Possibly a handy tool for some given the price? I think I’d prefer HSS tool bits which are available, but provided the carbide ones supplied are nice and sharp they should last a long time.

View attachment 64201
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Im wondering if this would be a viable alternative to a set of forstner bits for someone who’s not doing production work?

I have a cheap set of forstner, but they don’t work well. The grinding is terrible, so just sharpening is not going to work.

A good set of forstner bits is expensive compared to the boring bar that Bill linked to.

I’m sure forstner bits would be faster, but my time is free and I don’t sell much.
 
I made a German Smoker some time ago and to save time I decided a Forstner bit could be used to make a finished hole in the body. I bought a bit specifically for the job. The finish was not good and I had to turn and finish the hole by hand. I wasn’t really a fan of Forstner bits before, but definitely not now. If I want to make a large opening with a drill I used Blacksmiths reduced shank drills. They’re much quicker in my experience.
 
Bob Vaughan said:
If you want clean and efficient holes, get a multi spur bit.
These guys still have them.
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Bob,

Actually the link you gave says Forstner bits are superior.

"Forstner bits are the superior boring bits for woodworking because they give you perfectly smooth, flat bottom and clean-sided holes......"
 
They didn't say those little 3-1/2" long bits were superior to the 6" long, 1/2" shank multi spur bits. If you want to eat through wood, get a multi-spur bit. Been there. Today's little "Forstner" bits are great for crafts and a few holes, but the heat and burn when boring deep. I have some of those and do use them when I need that flat bottomed hole on small projects that need a relatively shallow hole. For work like pepper mill hollowing, the multi spur can't be beat.

Real Forstner bits haven't been available for many decades. Most were about 6" long and had a 1/2" shank. Like multi spur bits, they were intended for commercial and industrial use. Those that use multi spur bits know well the difference in application.


forstner - 1.jpg forstner - 2.jpg forstner - 4.jpg forstner - 3.jpg
 
I have made dozens of peppermills using the CrushGrind@ mechanism. Never used a 1 1/16" bit.

What do you need the 1 1/16" bit for? - John

PS - Check out Turning Salt & Pepper Shakers and Mills by Chris West. All you need to know to make magnificent pepper/salt mills. I have scanned the plans/instructions in the book for making pepper/salt mills. Cannot find any specification requiring 1 1/16" drill. - J
 
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Richard Coers said:
Of course carbide bits last longer than steel. Unless you find a supplier who has custom bits made, you won't find a 1 1/16". If you intend to make a few pepper mills, this is the tool to buy. https://woodturningtoolstore.com/product/woodcut-mill-drill/

If you want to go cheap; https://www.amazon.com/Penn-State-I...89c4474695bd32c88f5f206c221a707c&gad_source=1
Click to expand...
The Woodcut Mill Drill is for the Crush-Grind mechanisms. 1-1/16 drills or Forstners are for the traditional mechanisms with the adjustment knob at the very top. (A 27mm Forstner is only 0.0005 larger than a 1-1/16" drill, not enough to mess up assembly; carbide bits this size are available on eBay.)
I just bought a 1-1/16" brad-point HSS drill bit from wlfuller.com; its cutting end is shaped a bit differently from many other brad-points but seems to do very well. I haven't used it much yet but plan to drill through first with one of their 5/8" bit to reduced the load on the full-size pass. The Fuller HSS bits are not cheap at all but on the other hand they can be expected to perform much better much longer than ordinary Forstners that use much lower quality steel more suitable for going into side-grain wood, not the end grain we go into for pepper mills.
 
Alan Weinberg said:
I’ve been told not to do that since the Forstner needs that point in the wood so it won’t wander. Just use the big one and back it out to clear chips often.
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If I'm drilling deep with the big forstners I tend to drill a a quarter inch or so with the large one to establish the hole, then drill out to depth with a smaller bit. Your big bit can then remove the bulk remainder without wandering
 
Alan Weinberg said:
I’ve been told not to do that since the Forstner needs that point in the wood so it won’t wander. Just use the big one and back it out to clear chips often.
Click to expand...
No, a "real" Forstner can drill a half hole on the edge of a board. This type confusion comes from multi-spur bits being identified as Forstner.

The multi-spur may remove material faster than a Forstner, but doesn't have the advantages of Forstner's. Maybe you want to create a large mortise, drill the first hole at one end, then step down the length with a series of half holes.
 
Alan Weinberg said:
I’ve been told not to do that since the Forstner needs that point in the wood so it won’t wander. Just use the big one and back it out to clear chips often.
Click to expand...
I was under the impression that the point is only for initial location? It’s the sharp rim of the bit that stops it wandering. I’ve not looked for a Forstner bit without a point, but I know others have and not found one. In order to drill a true flat bottom hole they resorted to grinding off the point. The results I saw online looked pretty good to me.
 
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