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Glue

I have no clue about heat tolerance of glues. But I have read, and find it to be pretty accurate, that if you are generating enough heat to soften glue, then you are using too much pressure. Back off and let the sandpaper do its job. Patience and frequent paper replacement will keep it cool, and eliminate the problem.

my 2 cents
 
Paul, I use ca glue and it works just fine. You also can buy sheets from I think sanding glove with sticky on it and it holds up very well. I sand off the hook when its gone and put on more. The sheet with the sticky is much faster to apply. Left by itself it can slowly come unglued.I have a pile of nasty ones and then do a redo of all of them at one time and put them in a ziplock bag. The ones with the sticky I have noticed after about 6 months of sitting in the bag have come a bit loose on the edges. But pressure took care of it. But I have not had one come off during use. Neither one with ca glue.
 
You do need to reduce the heat. Use fresh sandpaper, lighter pressure, and slower speeds if necessary. I've had excellent results with contact cement although excessive heat will release most glues. contact cement seems to handle it well. shoe Goo is another good one.
 
Paul M. Kaplowitz said:
Anyone suggest a glue that won't let loose when it gets hot.
Click to expand...

Paul, please excuse my comments if the following is part of your previous knowledge. I include it not only for the possibility you may benefit but others too.

As has been mentioned above, excessive sanding heat results from too much pressure, too much speed, or a combination of the two. Anyone who sands needs to learn proper techniques to work with the tools (sanding mandrels and "paper"). When tools fail in ways uncharacteristically from their intended life span, something is wrong with application - assuming well designed and manufactured tools. Consider sanding grit as you would a turning gouge; you wouldn't press a gouge hard against the wood to make it cut nor would you turn at the highest speeds. Sanding materials need the same considerations.

If you are generating excessive heat, lessen the friction by using lower rpm on the sanding tool or lathe speed; lighten your pressure against the surface you are sanding; or do both. You may also need to learn the zen of sanding and incorporate a lesson in patience. :D

If after the above suggestions are followed the sanding isn't working well, you may need to begin with a coarser grit material. The initial grit should remove the tool marks or shape the surface with relative ease. All grits after that first one are merely removing the previous sanding grit's telltale marks. Jumping to finer grits too early only extends the process and wears out the materials before they can perform their job. Too, don't skip grits. Follow the sequence of the grit grading. A general rule is to choose the next finer grit that is no more than twice the number on your last material. For example, if you finish with 120, the next material should be no higher than 240. Most people would choose a 220 but some may even go to a smaller increment of 180.

Once the methodology is learned, the tiresome aspect of sanding becomes the frequent changing of the grits and attention to sanding techniques so as not to harm details.
 
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Don't sweat the speed of the work or the sander. It's not a player. One of the many reasons I like my flex shaft for sanding is that it can be supported on the toolrest rather than by my aging elbow on one end and the work on the other. That way I can have the work and the sanding mandrel rotating and touch just hard enough to generate dust. Keeps things cool, which makes the paper and the velcro last longer.
 
When the sanding is efficient you will see a spray of wood dust coming off the work.
If you don't see the wood dust the sandpaper isn't working and you have more friction than wood removal
Replace worn sandpaper
Clean or replace clogged sand paper
Reduce lathe speed.

I prefer a lower lathe speed 300-500 rpm and a fast speed on the sanding mandrel.
I generally have the edge of the sander moving opposite the rotation of the wood.
I also do a lot of sanding off the lathe and on the lathe rotating the piece by hand.


Generally a fast lathe speed clogs the paper shortening it's life.
Wet wood clogs paper and is a lot easier to sand when dry.

Al
 
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hockenbery said:
When the sanding is efficient you will see a spray of wood dust coming off the work.
If you don't see the wood dust the sandpaper isn't working and you have more friction than wood removal
Replace worn sandpaper
Clean or replace clogged sand paper
Reduce lathe speed.

I prefer a lower lathe speed 300-500 rpm and a fast speed on the sanding mandrel.
I generally have the edge of the sander moving opposite the rotation of the wood.
I also do a lot of sanding off the lathe and on the lathe rotating the piece by hand.


Generally a fast lathe speed clogs the paper shortening it's life.
Wet wood clogs paper and is a lot easier to sand when dry.

Al
Click to expand...

This is an outstanding post by hockenberry, and closely parallels my thoughts on the subject........:D

Sandpaper is cheap.......so, forget about using every last bit of useable surface, and get another piece! ;)

If it's too hot on your fingers, you're using too much pressure......or are long past the point where you should have replaced the sandpaper.

If you dread doing the sanding.......then you might want to learn more about tool choice, tool control, and sharpening! :eek: Get a clean cut, and sanding is very fast and easy.

......etc, etc, etc........;)

ooc
 
Use sew on Velcro from the sewing store and glue it on with solvent based contact cement. CA is too brittle and not realm heat resistant and will increase the pad density with it's inflexibility
 
contact cements are available in a heat resistent range. This is what I use for my inertia sanders.
 
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