Goblet process -- Batty

[Jamie Straw]

Hockenbery mentions in another thread: "I think Stewart Batty used them [tower jaws] on a long stemmed goblet demo for our club. As I recall he used the long tenon while hollowing the cup.
Then reversed it and made a short tenon with a finish turned bottom. The turned the outside of the cup and stem with the short tenon." I'm having difficulty picturing this process -- getting lost between "reversed it" and "short tenon". Can you help? Does anyone have another process they like, other than simply turning the whole thing and parting off the bottom?

 

[hockenbery]

Well circa 1998 or so.

As I recall the way the process works is you have a blank 18-24” long.

Hold the square in the chuck. Turn a long tenon on one end. Turn a slight concave in the end and sand it this is the finished bottom of the bottom. Add a couple decorative grooves on the bottom. Then cut in about 1/4 above the bottom a tiny bit to create the edge of the top of the goblet base.
Cut a decorative groove. The diameter of the base is set so the groove is a perfect circle

Reverse and chuck the long tenon. The 1/4” base will be in the chuck.
Round the cylinder, Remove the tailstock, hollow the cup. Sand the inside of the cup. Shape the outside of the cup.
Bring the tailstock up to the up. Stewart packed the cup with tissue. Rubber chuckies do that job now. I’ve also seen people use styrofoam and rubber balls inside the goblet cup to rest the live center against to turn the outside of the cup into the stem.

Now the goblet can be re chucked so that it is held in the decorative base groove.
The stem is turned from the cup to the base.
After about 4” of stem tape the cup to the live center and use the tailstock to pull on the cup rather that push.
Before taping Sand the outside of the cup and 3” of stem.
The pulling reduces wobble in the stem.
After 6-10 inches of stem add a string steady
Turn the rest of the stem. Every couple of inches sand the stem,
Last make finish cuts on the top of the base trying to remember how deep your concave went.


When I do the split hollow-form seed jars. I finish turn the bottom and the opening inside the tenon.

Turning a seed jar - split hollow form

I turned one of these for after dinner entertainment at SWAT-2017 along with Trent Bosch. Trent turned a traditional hollow form in an informal race and finished first. A fun time. Since then I have done several of these in club demos and also did a club workshop where students turned them...

www.aawforum.org

 

[Lance Mirrer]

Hope this helps. I have one of Stuart's demo pieces. Height approx 14", base diameter shy of 3"

 

[hockenbery]

Hope this helps. I have one of Stuart's demo pieces. Height approx 14", base diameter shy of 3"

I don’t see a groove in the base - Did I invent that in my mind? Do you recall if he just gripped the edge?
I guess it could work with the tailstock and string steady.

 

[Lance Mirrer]

I believe the jaw gripped the inside circle, Stuart uses very small notches to grab things.
I've had trouble being comfortable with such a light grip, but your explanation of using the larger tenon for most of the stem, then moving down to the bottom grip gives me a better idea for next try.

I also had to search for how to set up the string steady. Found several old posts with interesting set-ups. Do you have one you'd like to share?

 

[hockenbery]

I also had to search for how to set up the string steady. Found several old posts with interesting set-ups. Do you have one you'd like to share?

No. I’ve used one a couple of time but had a picture in one hand as I was making it.
Basically get a board or plywood mounted vertically to the lathe bed mark center with the tailstock center.

Draw two circles. Mark a few diameters. Screws go at opposite ends of the diameters then cut sort of a C shape on the bandsaw to open the inner circle so you can slide it over the spindle. String runs to screws on opposite sides of the diameters. 4 screws works.

Rudy Lopez has a couple of alternatives he demonstrates

 

[Lance Mirrer]

this is the one I found on old forum posts. Saved the image but neglected to note the source. Thanks to the OP. Sorry for lack of credit.
Good idea cutting side out to be able to mount it after the goblet started.

 

[hockenbery]

this is the one I found on old forum posts. Saved the image but neglected to note the source. Thanks to the OP. Sorry for lack of credit.
Good idea cutting side out to be able to mount it after the goblet started.

Yes! Cut the side opening.
You might not ever get the cup running true again
With through hole you can put the steady over the blank before you start but then it is in the way of where you want the banjo to

 

[Jamie Straw]

Well circa 1998 or so.

As I recall the way the process works is you have a blank 18-24” long.

Hold the square in the chuck. Turn a long tenon on one end. Turn a slight concave in the end and sand it this is the finished bottom of the bottom. Add a couple decorative grooves on the bottom. Then cut in about 1/4 above the bottom a tiny bit to create the edge of the top of the goblet base.
Cut a decorative groove. The diameter of the base is set so the groove is a perfect circle

Reverse and chuck the long tenon. The 1/4” base will be in the chuck.
Round the cylinder, Remove the tailstock, hollow the cup. Sand the inside of the cup. Shape the outside of the cup.
Bring the tailstock up to the up. Stewart packed the cup with tissue. Rubber chuckies do that job now. I’ve also seen people use styrofoam and rubber balls inside the goblet cup to rest the live center against to turn the outside of the cup into the stem.

Now the goblet can be re chucked so that it is held in the decorative base groove.
The stem is turned from the cup to the base.
After about 4” of stem tape the cup to the live center and use the tailstock to pull on the cup rather that push.
Before taping Sand the outside of the cup and 3” of stem.
The pulling reduces wobble in the stem.
After 6-10 inches of stem add a string steady
Turn the rest of the stem. Every couple of inches sand the stem,
Last make finish cuts on the top of the base trying to remember how deep your concave went.


When I do the split hollow-form seed jars. I finish turn the bottom and the opening inside the tenon.

Turning a seed jar - split hollow form

I turned one of these for after dinner entertainment at SWAT-2017 along with Trent Bosch. Trent turned a traditional hollow form in an informal race and finished first. A fun time. Since then I have done several of these in club demos and also did a club workshop where students turned them...

www.aawforum.org

Wow, thanks for the detail! (Wish my memory was close to that good). Not looking to turn long/tall goblets, just want to check for different processes. We have a spindle steady for the studio now, but the string steady would come in handy if more than one person needs a steady at the same time.