Good finish for spalted semi-punky wood

[Breck Whitworth]

I got some of the best spalted pecan I've ever had. Being pecan it is still hard enough to make a good utility bowl, but I was wondering if someone else has found a better finish for semi-punky wood for a utility bowl. This wood does not need stabilizing. I have always used numerous coats of tung oil that hardens to a wonderful finish but that takes so long. Has anyone else actually used a different finish that hardens to help protect somewhat soft wood in places well enough to sell as a utility bowl besides tung oil. I have also used polymerized tung oil but that is very expensive for large bowls. Thanks

 

[hockenbery]

i do 2 treatments for punky wood. The easy quick not especially hardening is to apply thin(2x the alcohol) to the surface while doing the final turning. May repeat applications if I turn away the depth of penetration.
also apply for the final sanding grit. These I usually finish with Waterlox. The finish is fine for hollow forms and NE bowls. not sure how it would hold up for utility bowls.

the second is polyall 2000
expensive, a pain to use, has a super short working time, plasticizes the surface a bit. - the only thin g in its favor is it work
its a two part that is super thin. Punky woods soaks it up. it will harden wood I can pull apart with my fingers.

I used this on special wood like the Wye oak turnings ( the largest white oat prior to its death)

 

[Breck Whitworth]

I am going to ask about this also for the semi-punky spalted pecan utility bowls. When I say semi-punky I am talking about minor tear out in those areas that can easily be sanded very smooth just like the rest of the bowl. But knowing those area are going to be a little softer than the other areas I want a good finish that will help make these last a lifetime. Please understand if I thought the wood was too soft for the bowl to survive regular usage I wouldn't even consider selling it as a utility bowl. This is all about anything I can do with the finish that might add to the survivability of a utility bowl.
To hockenbery thanks very much for your tips they are good advice, and I will check out the viability of me using polyall 2000.
Another thing I am somewhat ignorant on, but might work to strengthen the bowls finish is to use a sand and sealer for the first coat then a finish over that?

 

[Dean Center]

I'd go with the tung oil. If it takes a month to cure, so what? It's just the right product for what you're doing.

 

[Doug Freeman]

For soft and or punky wood, thinned poly (1:1 with ms) works great. Thinning it allows it to probably soak all the way through the walls. It cures faster and harder than oils, which helps reinforce the soft wood. Just flood the surface, and keep flooding the surface, until absorption pretty much stops, then wipe off the excess. If you get tired of waiting for the absorption to stop, just wipe the piece off and set aside, come back the next day and do it again. I usually do 2 coats anyway, sometimes 3, on thirsty wood.

 

[Breck Whitworth]

I'd go with the tung oil. If it takes a month to cure, so what? It's just the right product for what you're doing.

Thanks Dean I was thinking the same thing

 

[Breck Whitworth]

For soft and or punky wood, thinned poly (1:1 with ms) works great. Thinning it allows it to probably soak all the way through the walls. It cures faster and harder than oils, which helps reinforce the soft wood. Just flood the surface, and keep flooding the surface, until absorption pretty much stops, then wipe off the excess. If you get tired of waiting for the absorption to stop, just wipe the piece off and set aside, come back the next day and do it again. I usually do 2 coats anyway, sometimes 3, on thirsty wood.

Doug I hadn't thought about that thanks a million that is a great idea.

 

[Rick Jude]

I think I read somewhere that David Ellsworth recommends artist's fixative for textured or spalted wood.

 

[Michael Nathal]

I for one don't like oils on spalted wood as much, because of the amber tone: I find it reduces the contrast with the zone lines. I prefer water base poly

 

[Doug Freeman]

For a more water clear finish, on smaller items(up to ~6” dia) Parfix 3408 ca glue is an option. Utube parfix 3408 Mark Silay. It doesnt penetrate to the depth of thin poly, so it doesnt improve the strength of the piece, but it cures quickly.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Hi Breck,
For quasi-punk (the wood not the kid with spiked hair) I use one of a couple of resins. First is 2-part penetrating epoxy made for marine use. While already thin to soak into rotting boat wood, it can be further thinned by up to 50% alcohol for even better absorption. A drawback is that it's a slow cure (several days rather than hours) but the long pot life allows many applications from the same mix. There are several brands with varying instructions. "Get Rot" is one, and Total Boat sells a kit. I've used both and prefer the Total Boat stuff. Second is Paraloid B-72 which was developed for and is used by museum and arceological restorers to preserve degraded specimins. I used it on natural edge (bark) pieces (turned and flat-work) although it's more expensive than the epoxy route.
Lastly, a note on using super thin CA. Great for pen finishes, and it does well on show/display pieces, but it's of limited use in utility treenware because repeated wetting with water will, before too long, break it down. If you get CA on your fingers and don't have any debonder, soak'em in warm water for about 15 -20 minutes and the stuff will usually release.

 

[Dean Center]

For soft and or punky wood, thinned poly (1:1 with ms) works great. Thinning it allows it to probably soak all the way through the walls. It cures faster and harder than oils, which helps reinforce the soft wood. Just flood the surface, and keep flooding the surface, until absorption pretty much stops, then wipe off the excess. If you get tired of waiting for the absorption to stop, just wipe the piece off and set aside, come back the next day and do it again. I usually do 2 coats anyway, sometimes 3, on thirsty wood.

I've been trying out this process a lot lately, and often it produces a result I like. Some woods REALLY suck up the poly, and handling the pieces, you get fingerprints and smudges to clean up. I'd be surprised if it penetrates any deeper than other finishes and I'm not sure it would be superior to cured tung oil on the sorta spalty parts. It could be an equally good solution, though.

 

[Breck Whitworth]

I've been trying out this process a lot lately, and often it produces a result I like. Some woods REALLY suck up the poly, and handling the pieces, you get fingerprints and smudges to clean up. I'd be surprised if it penetrates any deeper than other finishes and I'm not sure it would be superior to cured tung oil on the sorta spalty parts. It could be an equally good solution, though.

Dean I plan on trying that on a few. Thanks for your thoughts.

Hi Breck,
For quasi-punk (the wood not the kid with spiked hair) I use one of a couple of resins. First is 2-part penetrating epoxy made for marine use. While already thin to soak into rotting boat wood, it can be further thinned by up to 50% alcohol for even better absorption. A drawback is that it's a slow cure (several days rather than hours) but the long pot life allows many applications from the same mix. There are several brands with varying instructions. "Get Rot" is one, and Total Boat sells a kit. I've used both and prefer the Total Boat stuff. Second is Paraloid B-72 which was developed for and is used by museum and arceological restorers to preserve degraded specimins. I used it on natural edge (bark) pieces (turned and flat-work) although it's more expensive than the epoxy route.
Lastly, a note on using super thin CA. Great for pen finishes, and it does well on show/display pieces, but it's of limited use in utility treenware because repeated wetting with water will, before too long, break it down. If you get CA on your fingers and don't have any debonder, soak'em in warm water for about 15 -20 minutes and the stuff will usually release.

Mark thanks very much your info will take a little research on my part to catch up to your knowledge but being an old science teacher I will definitely check all this info out.

I for one don't like oils on spalted wood as much, because of the amber tone: I find it reduces the contrast with the zone lines. I prefer water base poly

Michael that's another detail I wasn't aware of thanks for your input. You can learn a world of info from fellow turners.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I've been trying out this process a lot lately, and often it produces a result I like. Some woods REALLY suck up the poly, and handling the pieces, you get fingerprints and smudges to clean up. I'd be surprised if it penetrates any deeper than other finishes and I'm not sure it would be superior to cured tung oil on the sorta spalty parts. It could be an equally good solution, though.

Sounds like you do not wipe the piece “dry”. I have no issues with fingerprints/smudges as the piece is wiped down until the shop towel doesn’t soak any more up, and then I check for bleed out and wipe it off after setting for a while. If you want a film build up, do that after 2-3 coats of wiping it off, which seals the surface and provides an even film build.

If other finishes (blo, tung oil, etc) are thinned to ~same viscosity penetration will be ~ the same. The advantage of the poly is strength and cure time vs an oil. Put a drop of whatever oil and poly on a hard surface and see what the cure time difference is.

Finishes with a much shorter open time, like shellac or lacquer, dont have time to penetrate very deep.