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green wood sealers

A

allen jay

Joined
Dec 8, 2009
Messages
108
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Location
Littleton, CO
ok i need input on what everyone uses for a green wood sealer. I know about all the usual places to get it, crafts supplies rockler etc. anyone ever use anchor seal??
i know latex paint doesnt seem to work.
 
Another vote for Anchorseal. The latex paint, although free from waste disposal sites, needs to be re-coated occasionally. Melted paraffin is messiest of all.
 
UC Coatings - Anchor seal. Winterized. Been using the green lately.
Their 5 gal bucket is a good deal
Or if you belong to a club, or have several people interested, the 55 gal drum is a very very good bargain. Come to about $8 per gallon(with delivery) when our club got some last Spring.

Winterized should be stored above 40 degrees.

Have not descovered a shelf life of this product. If not frozen, It seems to last forever.

Jerry
 
Also about the 55 gal drum.
Check with uccoatings to see where you could pick it up at.
They have several ditribution sights scattered through out the States.
You may be able to pick it up and save a hundred $ in shipping cost.

Jerry
 
I use both Anchorseal and parrafin. I use the Anchorseal as soon as I get the wood because I often don't have time to process it right then. It's a temporary stop gap. I stack the wood vertically with one side on the ground. That solves the moisture loss from that end, then I seal the other end and try to cover the wood.
I find the wood will still check in fairly short order if I don't do something else. If I have time I'll cut them through the pith and then seal the other end. I think the most important thing for me is to cover the wood and protect it from the weather.
I bought a used electric skillet. I found the heat setting that just melts the paraffin so there isn't a danger of fire. I hot glued the knob to this setting. If the wood will fit in the skillet I dip the ends in. This has really worked to save save wood.
If I have time to cut it into bowl or vessel blanks I roll the whole thing in the wax. This really works. I have cherry and an apple blank that are about a year and a half old and still good. I'm saving these because I always had trouble with both species and I want to see how long they will last before splitting. They are stored in my shop.
when I notice the outside logs starting to check I bring them in and cut them into the largest square blanks I can. I leave them as long as the log. These are sealed on the ends only and put up on a shelf to dry. I use these for spindle, box, ornament and other projects that need dry wood.
End grain sealer would probably work for this but it's just so quick to just dip the end in the wax.
One down side. I dropped a bark edged blank into the wax one time when the bark fell off. It splattered wax all over me from my face on down. didn't hurt but ruined the clothes and took forever to clean off the floor. I wish I had taken photos because it was hanging off my glasses, mustache and chin.
 
If you have money to waste, then buy it at the different stores. But the 5 gal. containers will save a lot of money and lasts forever. It works best if you coat the end of the log twice. It does not "seal" the end of the log, it slows down the rate of evaporation to keep the log from splitting. Those who advocate latex paint either put it on straight grained wood or were just lucky!
 
I buy a product from Forestry Suppliers in Jackson MS called Waxlor end grain sealer, $45.95 +tax for 5 gal. dries clear.
I agree with the two coat process. As I core bowls I coat each piece completely and let it dry.
Bill
 
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