Handles

[Bill Blasic]

Since I have not been able to go down to the shop because I have been dealing with low blood pressure and light headedness (I owe two pieces out there and they will get there) so I have been spending twice as much time on the computer and my 13+ hard drives. I ran across the pics from an article I wrote. Thought it might be interesting to see who owns what.

 

[Bill Blasic]

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[Bill Blasic]

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[Donna Banfield]

HannesTools handles, (bright green), Trent Bosch, very early Glaser. I've made my own wood handles as well but rarely use the gouges in them.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I make my own handles out of wood. I use them where the tool needs removed for sharpening, shop made hollowing/insert scraper/Hunter copy/misc, or a longer handle was needed, 2” spindle rougher. Some use Cindy Drozda’s tool adapter, others use a copper pipe ferrule.

 

[Dean Center]

I make my own handles out of wood. I use them where the tool needs removed for sharpening, shop made hollowing/insert scraper/Hunter copy/misc, or a longer handle was needed, 2” spindle rougher. Some use Cindy Drozda’s tool adapter, others use a copper pipe ferrule.

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Doug, I'm very curious about the handles that have tape or knurling on the butt end. Do those grippier areas actually work? Do you think their presence helps remind you to grasp them there for max stability?

 

[hughie]

I make alot of my own, very similar to the Monster variety, generally much longer.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Michael Hosaluk

Middle: Sorby Sovereign and Sorby mini
Bottom: McNaughton

Top: Hannes Tool
Middle: Glaser

Top: Easy Wood Tools

Top: Sorby
Bottom: stick (could be Ellsworth organic handle)

Purple handle: Trent Bosch

 

[Bill Alston]

I too make my own tool handles. These are some of mine. I either make my own Stainless Steel or Alloy ferrules or use ER Collet Chucks.
The most comfortable by far, is the Cork one fifth from the right.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Doug, I'm very curious about the handles that have tape or knurling on the butt end. Do those grippier areas actually work? Do you think their presence helps remind you to grasp them there for max stability?

Yes they do work for me. I found plain wood too slick. I do put finish on all of them to seal them so liquids dont absorb, 1-1 poly/ms, soak in for ~20 min wipe off.

I’m using hockey tape. It gives a higher friction coef vs the wood without being sticky, and the very slight “cushion” helps grip also. It helps some while making a cut, but actually is more helpful as I handle the tool. Sometimes I would switch hands, or go to store the tool, and the slick wood would slide through my hand. Several hit the concrete with edges. Thankfully I never cut myself.

The knurling works but IMO not as well as the tape, and is more time consuming to do. With use the knurling can get worn and be more slick. I’ve put tape over some of the knurling. The tape isn’t perfect - it collects dust (not a big deal to me) and the edges will shed threads some (minor pita). Only been using the tape a couple of years. When it comes time to remove it and put new on it may be another pita. Hockey tape has some pretty strong adhesive. It does have some stretch and lays down well on gentle curves.

I have some gaffer’s tape as well but it suffers the same issues and is a lot more expensive. I considered racket grip tape but the stuff I found was way too soft.